First trip out with the new GPR

Finally got to shoot my new gun, and boy was it awesome! I shot 3, 5 shot groups with different balls/patch combinations, and I'm impressed! Gun shot great! I did have 4 or 5 times where the cap didn't get seated enough by thumb pressure and didn't go off that first hammer fall, but fired the second . I cleaned the cap area and it worked a few more shots then needed to be cleaned again. I did break the tip off my ramrod on the third to last shot and had to use my stainless rod to finish out (I guess going to the gym has been paying off)! Shots were at about 40 yards, wiped between every shot, used dutchs dry patch lubricating system
Last group

Second group

First group

Looks pretty good! :thumbsup:

Hi,
Happy to hear about your GPR doing so well.
If I may suggest, remove the nipple from your gun, carefully holding the nipple by the threads in the jaws of a drill, turn the drill on, at medium speed and then apply a fine file to the area that contacts your caps.
Go easy, stopping ever so often, and try to fit a cap on to the nipple.
The cap should go on easy. We are speaking of # 11 caps. Do not over file!
Then when shooting, just pinch the caps a bit to make sure they stay on.
Good luck!
Those Lyman GPR have to be the very best bang for the buck!
I have several custom guns, but I still keep a GPR on the rack.
Fred

Glade you're happy. It's common for caps not to fit nipples. Come caps fit better than others.

Thanks guys I plan on trying another brand of caps. I ordered a hotshot nipple from TOW and it wouldn't fit the gun even though it was for a lyman gun? I'm gonna have to call them and see what's going on. I feel like the last group is a great group and I don't need to try any other combinations, but on the other hand there could be something even better?

That looks like it is working. Mark

The threading should be 6-.75 for the replacement nipple for the Lyman. It is possible you got the wrong threading. Sometimes things get mixed. I have had it happen in more than one company. DANNY

:thumbsup: I like that last groupe.Griz

Look'n good! :thumbsup:

Excuse my ignorance, but what does the 1:7 & 1:5 represent? I understand the ball weight, powder volume and patch thickness but not the ratio noted on the targets.

Any of those groups should be "minute of deer or hog" and that last one deserves to be framed and bragged on.

I would speculate that the ratio is in parts of water soluble lubricant to water. i.e. 1 part of Ballistol to 5 or 7 parts of water.

Investarms makes a very good barrel, especially once broken in -- although yours doesn't look like it needs it! Something to consider is switching from a No. 11 nipple to a musket nipple, if the GPR hammer geometry will accommodate it. I like the quantum increase in ignition, along with the much-easier-to-handle winged musket cap.

Thanks guys! Correct, the 1:5 and 1:7 was the ballistol to water ratio. I called TOW about the nipples I got from them being just a bit too wide to fit the nipple hole. They said that even though I measured them at about a thousandth or two bigger than the stock nipple, they should go in with some nipple grease on the threads and don't be afraid to force them. I'm hesitant to until I verify that the threads are correct.

The nipple for a GPR should be 6-.75 mm threads.

TOW has them, check the bag yours came in for the size they sent

2-GPRs in my herd, the .54 gets more range time than the .50.

I think you mean that you swabbed between shots but it appears that you have achieved minute of deer accuracy. Did you try different ratios for the dry lubes? If so, which gave you the best results?

That's some really good shooting Robert!

I have a couple of GPR's. One in .50 and the other in .54. The .50 was the second muzzleloader I've ever owned. They're a great gun for the money.

I was having problems with ignition when I first got the .50. For the likes of me I couldn't figure it out? Was getting maybe one out of four caps to ignite? Was using CCI caps at the time. I was also new to muzzleloading as well. Another gentleman was shooting modern guns next to me and saw I was definitely having issues. I'm ashamed to say he identified the problem right off the bat.

Apparently the hammer was not properly inline with the nipple and only the very front edge of the hammer cup skirting was striking the nipple. It was a factory flaw with that rifle. I ended up calling Lyman and sent the whole rifle back to them. They replaced the barrel and sent it back to me. The only thing that I could think of was that the breech plug was a tad to short thus causing my issue. Definitely a quality control issue. Since then it has fired flawlessly first attempt every time!

The reason for the long story is that you might want to check to see if yer hammer cup is centered over your nipple. Also might want to be sure you don't have a spent cap stuck up into the hammer cup as well! That would definitely give you a weak strike.

As for switching out your standard nipple for a hotshot nipple or a musket nipple? I personally don't see a need to do so! If you use a nipple pick to be sure yer nipple is free from obstruction and you also check to be sure your fire channel is clear and free of oil and residue, you shouldn't experience FTF's very often at all! It's very rare that I have FTF's in any of my caplock's now days.

In closing, the only other thing that I modified on both my GPR's was switching out the stock trigger's with R.E.Davis Deerslayer trigger's. Cost ya around $50 for a set. Best money I ever spent to enhance the accuracy of an already accurate rifle!

Sorry for the long story! Just putting in my two cents my friend.

Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:

I could imagine once the barrel is broken in, it might like the 1:7 ratio.

More lube in the barrel, the more junk you can get in that patent chamber and ignition channel.

I like the added accuracy of Dutch's system. But really enjoy the added reliability during woodswalk shoots. I rarely fuss with the gun now.

Yes swabbed between shots is what I was doing. I tried two different lube ratio on two different patch thicknesses. Next time out I think I'm going to try the thicker patch with 1:7 lube ratio. Just from my one trip the thicker patch is much more accurate, so I'll try a little dryer lube if I can load it without issues.
I checked the bags the nipples came in and they all say they are for GPR. I checked alignment of hammer on nipple and it's centered. Hammer cup had no debris in it and nipple hole was clean. I think the outside of the nipple was getting dirty and not letting me push it down far enough. When I cleaned thy nipple it worked. I'm gonna check the threads on the new nipples at the store to verify they are the correct thread pattern

Like Track had stated earlier, don’t be afraid to give the new nipples a little torque. When I install a new nipple I place a small pin head size dab of anti-seize on the threads. Then I be sure the threads are lined up and started properly. I torque it in a few turns and back it out. I then repeat the process torqueing in and backing out until the nipple is finally seated. This procedure is normal with brand new nipples. After repeating this process a couple of times the nipple should tighten down effortlessly or maybe with a small amount of help with the nipple wrench.

Respectfully, Cowboy

Cowboy said:

I torque it in a few turns and back it out. I then repeat the process torqueing in and backing out until the nipple is finally seated. This procedure is normal with brand new nipples. After repeating this process a couple of times the nipple should tighten down effortlessly or maybe with a small amount of help with the nipple wrench.

Respectfully, Cowboy

Click to expand...

Wow, I have bought 4 new nippples of three different brands for my TC Hawkens, I dab a touch of NO-OX grease on the threads and screw them in with my fingers, then use the wrench to snug them down. Why would factory threads be bad and not fit properly?