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This is just a little vent, no pun intended. Everyone here has been very helpful as I get some cap guns squared away and with my quest to get a flintlock.

After purchasing two flintolock rifles and getting broken rifles I have about had it. One rifle would not stay cocked, didn't matter what the trigger set-up was, it was defective. Next one, the wedge flew out as I unboxed it. There is no tenion or whatever you call it attached to the barrel to hold the wedge in place. Both reputable companies and both priced over $1275 each. Sheesh... what do I have to do to get a working rifle? Unfortunately the place I am stationed now does not have a large muzzleloading audience and there are virtually none at gun shows. I suppose I may go with a new Lyman GPR to reduce my cost and start with something supposedly new. I am still waiting on refunds totally $3000.....
Frustrating but God is good and I am sure these were meant to steer me to where I need to be.
Next post I hope to report my progress in shooting my new rifle. Meanwhile, let me spend some time in the Classified section here.
 
The wedge is a common and easy fix. Lay the wedge on a hard flat surface. Tap it with a light hammer to bend it a little and I did say tap, it bends easy. See haw it fits and repeat until you get the tension you want/need to keep it in place. You want it to fit tight so it won't fall out in the field but not so tight that it is difficult to remove.
 
I think you were hasty in returning the guns...

The first likely had a little extra wood binding somewhere in the lock mortise - 15 minutes with a candle and scraper would likely have fixed the problem.

The second just needed a few taps on the wedge to give it a slight bend. This would have given you enough tension to keep it in place.
 
I feel yer pain. :surrender: Trump needs to re-instate the quality control guys like he did with once again allowing a "Merry Christmas" greeting!!


Yer on the right track. Getcherself a GPR and go shooting! If issues get online and we will fix ya up!. :thumbsup:
 
The wedge was fine. The loop on the barrel was broken off. That should have been checked before shipping. The one with the lock issue I was told before purchase “sparks great, strong and nice trigger pull”.
 
Well I hope you get your refunds. I think the Lyman is a good place to start instead of a more expensive rifle. There is a bit of tinkering involved in this sport and you will learn it as you go if you have the patience. This forum and others will help you with anything you need to know. If you don't understand something ask and people will help.

Fit and finish will vary in production rifles. You need a good barrel and a quality lock for basics. I have some TC's and some Lymans and I prefer the Lyman.

I learned a bunch owning several rifles but if I were to recommend something to a person new to this sport it would be to find one rifle in the caliber you want that fits you well and shoot and tune it. You didn't say if your in it for target or hunting and that should be considered as far as caliber goes.

As far as projectiles go I would shoot round ball to begin with and the 1/60 twist Lyman is a good barrel. With a little load work you will have a very good rifle.
 
My co-worker I got into flintlock shooting. He ordered a Lyman GPR and it arrived with a lengthwise crack from the nose of the forend to the lock mortise. Sent it back. Got a nice "mea culpa" letter from Lyman and another .54. YES he was disappointed, but that didn't last long when we got him to the range, and he started blowing holes in the bullseye..., then of course he took a deer with his new rifle, and she was named "my girl". He has three PA primitive seasons under his belt now. :wink:

LD
 
Your problems may not be solved by purchasing a Lyman GPR .
I read all the rave reports about them and looked forward to getting started with flintlock shooting and ordered a GPR.
The gun that arrived was of poor quality manufacture . Trigger , lock and sights had to be changed . The vent hole is not even in the centre of the pan . The wood was badly finished and had craters in the wood that could not be sanded out .
After spending several months tearing out my hair and spending nearly as much money in replacement parts as the original price of the gun , I eventually had a useable firearm . However the experience soured my view of the gun and I do not enjoy shooting it .A friend who has tables at gunshows has tried to sell it for me , alas it remains unsold and unloved .
I will never buy another Lyman rifle .
You may have a different experience , and indeed I hope you have better luck if you decide to go the GPR route but I am not alone in having Lyman problems .The fact that aftermarket triggers and locks are available would seem to indicate there is an inherent problem .
If you cannot handle the firearm before purchase , inspect it thoroughly before you shoot it and check all the items above . Also check that the flint is striking the frizzen in the correct place .
Best of luck .
 
I don't know where you are posted, but if you are in the states, you might check with the state muzzle loading association or NMLRA for clubs in your area. My bet is, there is a club within an hour or less drive from your area unless it is real remote. Most folks are happy to help another BP shooter and you may find someone who has a rifle that meets your need for sale and be able to inspect and possibly shot it before buying.

It would be a win-win situation.
 
You ahve 3000 in refunds waiting? No one has said it yet. sit on the money and get it back. for 3,000 dollars you can buy on fine full custom rifle made to order for you. I know several people who can build you something far nicer than you will ever see from a factory made. and it could cost you as little as 1500 . if you ahve already set up the returns for those rifle you may as well just get a full custom. I checked with one of my friends and he said his turn around right now is 3-4 months....
 
You ahve 3000 in refunds waiting? No one has said it yet. sit on the money and get it back. for 3,000 dollars you can buy on fine full custom rifle made to order for you. I know several people who can build you something far nicer than you will ever see from a factory made. and it could cost you as little as 1500 . if you ahve already set up the returns for those rifle you may as well just get a full custom. I checked with one of my friends and he said his turn around right now is 3-4 months....
 
For $1000 you can get a Jim Kibler kit with premium parts. Experienced builders can assemble his kits in a long weekend, and the finishing process can be customized.
 
I haven't built a Jim Kibler kit but I have built a lot of Pecatonica River kits.

One can figure spending at least 150 and possibly 180-200 hours to build a nice gun.

IMO, even a Lyman, Traditions or Pedersoli kit needs more than a long week end to turn it into anything nice.
 
The main difference between a traditional rifle and a modern rifle, is how the mechanical parts are connected. In a modern rifle, the barrel, action and trigger, are all connected, in one continuous mechanical piece and set into the stock. On a traditional rifle the barrel is mechanically separate from the lock and trigger. Because they are fitted in wood and independent from each other, there are problems, from wood swelling, being compressed and loose fitting etc.

This is were experience comes in. No matter what the cost of the rifle is, these can still create problems. Knowing how to understand and deal with this, will make owning a traditional rile, a lot more enjoyable. These problems are discussed on here, on a regular basis.

So, before you give up, search and read the information on this forum and you can see how many people are dealing with these same issues.

Even with my experience as a machinist and doing modern gunsmith work, I've had to adjust my thinking, when it comes to solving problems related to traditional firearms.

The more you learn, there is a less chance of "giving up".
 
Check with Curt Lyles, i talked to him the other day and he had several nice rifles for sale. He might have them listed on the CLA for sale page.
 
I have several Lyman rifles, both cap & flint, age from about a year to over 35 years old. None has had any appreciable problems that I couldn't remedy simply by myself. You've already experienced the fact that a custom rifle (x2) can be complete ¢rap and isn't necessarily the best direction to go for a first rifle. GPR and Trade rifles of newer manufacture years look to be much better quality than those of older vintage, however I got my GPR several years ago, amidst the big complaint period where certain buyers couldn't catch a break for quality. Mine has great looking wood, well-fit parts and excellent accuracy. You'll find more happy Lyman owners than unhappy ones.
 
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