IMHO, you generally get what you pay for. You want quality, you'll have to pay for it.
As for flintlocks, they ain't rocket science. It's 1700s technology, not real hard and nothing to be wary of. Instead of a percussion cap on a nipple, it's a flint in the cock and powder in the pan. I think 9 times out of 10 if someone has a problem with a flintlock it's usually headspace and timing on the operators part or a lesser quality lock or both.
Back in the late 70s when I got my first rifle, a custom Hawken I had just got out of the Army, was making $3.85 an hour and it took me about a year to save up for the rifle. It has Ron Long Lock and triggers, P++ wood and a Douglas XX barrel made by a guy from Round Rock Texas named Davey Boultinghouse. It was well worth the wait and luckily a loving and understanding wife. I guess the point I'm trying to make is get the best you can. I now have two flintlocks, a S. Mtn Rifle made by Jim Parker and a TVM Late Lancaster. The Parker rifle has a L&R Lock and the TMV has a Chambers, both good quality locks. There was no appreciable "learning" curve or secret to shoot these guns. Anyway, just my point of view. I don't think you could go wrong with a TVM or Tip Curtis kit, in the white or completed .36 cal rifle. I've never seen or handled one, but the Jim Kibler kit looks pretty awesome. Just don't cut yourself short. My opinion, for what's it's worth.
Snakebite