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Want to acquire a Flintlock

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I probably have no business messing with a flintlock when I am still sorting out a pair of percussion rifles, but I just feel moved to them.

I have thought about buying a flintlock barrel for my CVA, along with a L&R RPL for it. This $300something investment could get me started.

I've also pondered the Lyman GPR kit. This would be a few hundred more dollars investment.

Lastly, I have located a custom build with a Colerain barrel, Siler lock and nice stock configuration for a bit over the $1000 mark.

I am open to other suggestions.

Being totally new to flintlocks, I really desire something that will be reliable and somewhat straightforward to use. I'd also like the ability to replace parts that are readily available if something goes wrong.

Whatever rifle I end up with, it will be used for hunting and I want a .54 cal.

I am soliciting any suggestions, recommendations, anecdotes or comments that anyone cares to leave for my consideration in making this decision.

Thank you in advance!
 
Buy the best you can afford. Cheap flinters are more trouble than they are worth...
 
go with the custom build. You won't regret it. You can buy lesser flintlocks in the future if you get tired of having an accurate rifle that fires reliably! I have been down that road. :nono:
Nit Wit
 
Another vote for the custom gun just for the Siler lock. The touch hole should be about level with top of the pan and fairly centered. That's a good barrel and if the rifle has been well cared for it's cheaper to get one good flint lock rifle to start learning on then fighting "economical" imports.
 
Depends who built the custom rifle and how well they did building it. Good parts can be assembled into a poor rifle depending on who did it. Siler locks can be assembled from a kit and not work worth a darn.
 
Check with Tip Curtis over in Tn. He usually has plenty to choose from in the 1300$ ish range, I have two of his rifles and totally satisfied with them, I have the Pedersoli frontier, same as the Cabelas Blue Ridge I think, I've shot it tons and I've had zero issues with the lock on the Pedersoli and very accurate, the Cabelas version is 650$ I believe.
 
I’ve used .40, .45, .50 and .54s on whitetail. As said above .50 is plenty but I use my .54 as it’s a flinter w a 32” barrel. Custom longrifles are a joy to own and shoot, period.

Unfortunately too many new flint shooters don’t get proper instruction and support initially, get frustrated and bail out of flintlocks but have invested in a product w little resale value.

With a tight budget and on a steep learning curve, I suggest getting a solid starter such as the Lyman GPR as it can be sold later recovering most of your investment should you decide flinters aren’t for you. Be aware the GPR has an ante chamber in the breech plug. All such MLs flint or percussion with ante Chambers must be properly cared for to provide reliable ignition.

Good luck and enjoy the ML journey.

TC
 
Trot said:
Depends who built the custom rifle and how well they did building it. Good parts can be assembled into a poor rifle depending on who did it. Siler locks can be assembled from a kit and not work worth a darn.

This is gospel :thumbsup: .............Chawbeef
 
Who built the lock or was it purchased assembled from Siler?

Most importantly:
Can I send it back, if upon inspection, I am dissatisfied? Also, who would pay for postage & insurance if a return was necessary.
 
I second the Tip Curtis. One of advantages to his rifles, are the fact, that he uses quality parts. I have one of his rifles. It has a quality piece of wood, a Colerain swamped barrel, and Siler lock, and Davis triggers. Once you go swamped barrel, you'll not likely to ever want a straight barrel, unless it's small and/or short. The balance on a swamped barrel, is very hard to imagine. My long rifle, which is Late Virginia style, is super light. The round bottom rifling, makes loading round balls, easy. Also very accurate.

I bought mine at a show in PA, and Tip is super nice guy, full of information. My rifle was fully assembled and still in the white. Not sure if he still makes them like that.

Another good choice, would be a Jim Kibler kit, which for all practical purposed, is almost finished. I've seen a couple done, by people without any experience and they came out great. He also uses only quality parts. In fact he has out a new kit, I think he calls a Colonial rifle. He uses a CNC program and modern machine, that makes for very nice, almost completed rifle. You can see a lot of his work, by googling his name. It is "NOT" your regular "KIT" as are sold by some big name outfits. I have seen the kits, as they were being worked on. I was very impressed and am considering one for myself.

Can't go wrong with Tip Curtis or Jim Kibler. Tip is in Cross Plains Tenn. and will probably have a better selection and similar price, depending if it is finished or not.
 
The lock and touch hole combination are the heart of reliability (and control barrel dwell time of the projectile) when it comes to flinters. The barrel quality determines intrinsic accuracy, and the triggers determine controllability. The stock does nothing more than hold that stuff all together so it can work. You don't need pretty wood or fancy styling to have a deadly accurate piece. It just adds to the general panache of flinters if it's packaged nicely.
 
I’ll throw in another vote for Tip.

He usually has several different styles assembled sitting in his shop just waiting to be taken home. :thumbsup:

And yes he’s still building them..... 4 at a time. :thumbsup:
 
Them rifle guns shoot center and put meat in the pot. However don’t be closed to a fusil or Fowler. The big lock is almost fool proof. And out to fifty or sixty yards is no trouble putting deer in the pot. The north west gun, the pedi Indian trade gun, the fusil de chase and the military muskets are sure fire and more forgiving of minor mistakes a new flint shooter can make.
 
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