Pedersoli jaeger

I got a new Pedersoli jaeger for Christmas in 54 caliber but I read it has a 1/24 twist because it is the hunter version. I was wondering if anyone could suggest a load combo? I have 0.01 and 0.015 patches and .530 balls along with an assortment of powerbelts. I have 2F and 3F.
Flintlock only season here in PA, so it is hard to find range time. I would like to use it this season because my Pedersoli Mortimer is a bit heavy to drive be deer all day. The Mortimer likes 100G 2F and 0.010 patches ball. Jaeger would be a bit easier to lug around.

A lot will hinge on rifling depth. If it's shallow like many fast-twist barrels, you'll need a very tight patch/ball combo once your loads go higher than roughly 60 grains. I had a fast-twist (1:24) gun at one time with very shallow rifling, yet by increasing patch thickness to the point it took a mallet to start the ball, I was able to get reasonable accuracy all the way up to 90 grains. In my rifle 2f definitely outperformed 3f accuracy-wise with those heavier loads.

If your rifling is deeper, I'd still go pretty tight on the patches. I suspect 2f will be a little less "violent" on patches and improve large-load performance.

All guesswork, because I haven't worked with the Pedersoli Jaeger. Someone with experience might confirm my points, or might accurately point out that I'm full of hot air. :rotf:

Let us know how it comes out. I'm curious. :thumbsup:

I was wondering about the use of prb with that fast a twist. But BB spoke with experience. Can be done apparently but not an ideal thing. If I owned that I would consider having Bobby Hoyt bore it out to a .58 or .60 cal. and getting a 1:48" twist, or even a 1:66" for a versatile hunter.

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Mine shoots a .530 ball with 75 grains fffg and a 0.015" pillow ticking patch just fine.

Thank You Simonbeans!

I would say that a gun maker has a vested interest in their products being known for accuracy, and thus I'd say that Pedersoli has a vested interest in their firearms being known to be accurate. They recommend two bullets for the "Jaeger hunter" one of which is a .535 round ball. The other is a conical. So why recommend a round ball if it cannot be used as accurate ammo in their "hunter" version? :wink:

I know sereral reenactors with that rifle, and all have been surprised at the accuracy with the patched round ball. Granted, they expected a poor result due to the twist, but that has not been the case so far, and Simonbeans is another added to the list.

LD

I hunted in the morning at -2F until I left at 3F. So I was pretty beat by lunch time and ready to get out of the mountain.
After a warm lunch I took the rifle out back and tried sighting in. I put a adjustable rear and an easier to see front sight for hunting. Anyway I shot some 300 grain conicals with 80G 2F with decent accuracy, but the flash pan would fail to ignite 50% of the time. I tried 3 new flints, new 4F and it was still flaky. The lock is clean/dry and no oil. I did not try PRB because it was so cold and I was a bit frustrated with the lack of flash.
I brought it in for cleaning, and I tested the lock in the rifle with dim light. It sparks pretty good, but I think the sparks dont make it to the pan.
For reference I just shot my Mortimer 75 times the last 2 weeks, and it never failed. The Mortimer is a super duper nice rig, but not so pleasant to push/chase deer. The Jaeger would be mush easier to carry.

There is some basis to the observation that the Jaeger rifles had the twist the same as the barrel length. They seemed to believe that the ball had to make 1 full turn before it exited the barrel.

It seems that it is the depth of the rifling that is most important here. A round ball in a thick patch can perform with accuracy and hunting power in a fast twist barrel if the patch can properly grip the ball. That means that thumb starting may be out of the question.

Mine ignites very well. No misfires due to lock, maybe a touch hole problem which, of course, is my fault. How do you have flint placed in jaws? Real flint or a sawed one?

I tried 3 cut natural blonde flints in leather. I tried bevel up, bevel down.
It went off the first 3 times, then it started to no fire. The pan powder never ignites on a misfire. If the pan ignites it fires, so the flash hole is not an issue.
It seems to spark, but after firing the flint is positioned well beyond the pan. My other Perdersoli Mortimer, the flint is centered in the pan. So I think the sparks are not going in the pan.
I tried a second 4F primer dispenser, and even used new 4F from a can, so the powder should be good. Again I have no issues with my other rifle. Same flints, same powder.
Since it is a new rifle I washed it from machining oils the day before. So the lock was clean and dry.

IT sound like it hitting the frizzen high and throwing the Sparks Wild I had cva mountain rifle that's throw spark high and to will go off once in a while until I'll bent the hammer so Flint head lower on the frizzen

I tried adjusting the flint, but it looks like the sparks still land beyond the pan.
I called Dixie Gun Works and they think the frizen is too hard, so they want me to send it back.
To be honest, I did not expect issues with one of their most expensive production guns. I am very disappointed.

Real flint or a sawed one?

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Good point. He would probably get best results with a sawn flint.

Rifleman1776 said:

Real flint or a sawed one?

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Good point. He would probably get best results with a sawn flint.

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I tried a sawn flint to begin with. Results were very disappointing. Knapped flints seem to work much better.

I sent the lock back today for a new frizzen. We will see how that works out.

I talked to the gunsmith before I sent it back. He said Pedersoli had a run of frizzens that were too hard. So he saw this problem before. He said they would give me a new frizzen. Since he promised to replace the frizzen, I marked the bottom of the frizzen with my initials and took a picture and emailed to myself for date/proof. So as the weeks dwindle in the hunting season, I send the lock back at my expense.
I got the lock back today and they said they heat treated the frizzen and bent the hammer. I did not know a cast hammer could be bent. Anyway it is the same frizzen with my initials.
I am pretty disappointed that they knew these had issues, did not do the repair promised, all for twice as much dough as a Lymann. I am afraid it will still not flash or later it will break because things were not made to specifications.
I paid 1250.00 on sale, they are now 1450.00. I think I should have got a new lock shipped in December for that price. Sorta feels like I got a patched up lemon.

I did not miss 2 of the 3 weeks of hunting, I just had to hunt with my heavy Mortimer. That rifle is stellar in every way except it is heavy to carry with my shot knees.

So, did you try it with a new flint and did it throw a shower of sparks?

If it did, they fixed it so quit your worrying and go out and shoot it.

(If the frizzen was "too hard", baking it in an oven at the correct temperature (around 450 degrees F) for a few hours would temper it so it now would be fixed.

If that is what they did there is no reason for them to actually replace the frizzen).

I talked to the gunsmith before I sent it back. He said Pedersoli had a run of frizzens that were too hard.

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You mean Pedersoli marketed a gun with parts that weren't excellent?

Ye Gods What Has the World Come To?

:rotf:

LD