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Lubing the patch

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That's difficult to explain. I don't want to feel excess lube. I want the lube worked into the fibers of the cloth, but not feel wet. Consistent patches shoot better, because the friction from shot to shot remains the same. Just as fouling builds up and can also change the friction. Probably not noticeable on plinking, but more so on target shooting.

Some people just use spit, some lube is thicker, and some feels more like wax. The key is being consistent and keeping moisture to a minimum.
 
Do a shooting test....A series of 5 round shots with increasing levels of lube on the patches for each group...Then evaluate ease of loading, fouling, and accuracy. Also, recover your spent patches and evaluate them for burning, fraying, etc.
 
Last year I tried Lehigh Valley, 3 light spritz's on each patch. Sure seemed to help with groups (1 short range session then off to a shoot). Definitely better than Bore Butter or Mink Oil. Spit was ok but the spray was best.

Just got my copy of Dutch's system. Interesting to see how they compare.
 
I use Oxyoke 1000 Plus and just smear it on the patches and end up w/ an excess which is wiped off by the loading block and/or the gun's muzzle. Never had burnt patches or any inaccuracies.....Fred
 
Vondra,
You should find how to learn exactly how much lubrication your rifle wants through experimentation and then how to to make all your patching strips lubed exactly that much from end to end.
Varying the amount of the lube from patch to pat
ch will give you higher and lower hits.
If your lube is too slick the ball will leave the barrel before the powder has done its thing.

Spritz would be fine if each sprits was exactl the same.

Dutch
 
True that. I was concerned about how evenly and adequately each patch was lubed but, even worried about that using spit patches. Maybe I just had a good day but things sure worked better than using paste/gooey lubes.

I'm ancipating that your dry lubing system will be the most consistent and best.
 
This looks to be the first year there will be no last minute orders to be sent various direction as last minute gift to fumbling nephews or old shooting buddies..
I had to go to a place called the Galleria, a himongus collection of high roller department stores and shops to get an Apple product looked at and reader the site because it is always jammed with shoppers for Christmas and leaving no parking spaces. I was surprised to find parking everywhere available and a Soso collection of shoppers. I guess its true that most folks do heir shopping now on the internet..
That shouldn't surprise me as that's how I did mine.

If I forget to do it next week I do wish everybody in this brotherhood a Merry Christmas and an endurable New Year.

This includes the silent, never posting viewers we would all like to hear from but probably never will.

Dutch Schoultz
 
I know of no better way to obtain consistency with patch lubrication than Dutch's system. That's all I use now.

Before I used Dutch's system I used various lubes applied with a "best guess" approach, before eventually settling on my own method of ensuring consistency: soaking round patches in olive oil, then stacking up hundreds in a pipe and squeezing with a giant c-clamp to remove the excess. They ended up on the dry side and pretty darn consistent.
 
How do I tell How much lube is going on the patches.
It's very easy to do but challenge to explain which is why it takes several pages in the book
You make progressively "Dry" Watersoluble oil,Ballistol, Whatever , It hs to be water soluble. by adding measured amounts of water to create each solution.
Mix one patching strip in ech mix , Dry on a flat horizontal non absorbent surface and mark to indicate whihmix each strip came from.

Go to the range and begin with the oiliest strip, fire five round bench rest.
Next go to the next dry strip, fire five rounds and so forth. Your target should tell you which one was best,

You have to start with a patch material that gives you pretty good results when lihtly moistened as evenly as possible with saliva.

I,an hundreds of other have settled on a fairly dry mixute for best results. The next driest is usually too dry to load easily.

It's all there but it takes two or so pages to be really clear.

Dutch.
 
I know you are all wondering how the Soap Operaended.
Well I'm delighted to say thatI have found a way to never have to pay for gasoline (petrol) ever again.

The car was declared a total loss, and as I have to give up my license next March I have had to give up my car and after I return the rental car tomorrow I;ll never drive again.
You can imagine my joy.

Dutch

It has made Christmas a bit different than I had expected.
 
If you're happy with it, I'm happy for you. Hope you have a great Christmas. ho-ho-ho *
 
dledinger,
I'm not certain from your post which method of lubrication you ended up using.
but you did put your finger, or C clamp in the right direction by getting the lubrication minimized to where they felt almost dry.
When I first introduced my "Dry" lube System I sent a small sample of patch material lubricated with my method with each set of papers to demonstrate what that type of lubrication felt like/ Very dry.

After a year I discovered that I had been sending out samples hat were NOT lubricated at all. What, to my surprise, was so slight an amount of lubrication that you couldn't feel it at all. Just enough tone able to smell the water soluble oil in it..

This System works only if you are giving thee one wipe between each or every other shot

I wondered about Olive Oil as a metal preservative. So i cleaned what appears to be a Trench knife thoroughly with Hot soap water , dried it overnight and then coated it on both sides with Virgin Olive Oil.
Looked great. It sort of settled on to the steel and I thought we had a winner of sorts. But after three or four weeks wee
spots of rust appeared here and there so while it failed long term it did provide a temporay form of protection but nothing I would use for any kind of storage.

It's all fun investigating the details..
Dutch
 
Dutch Schoultz said:
dledinger,
I'm not certain from your post which method of lubrication you ended up using.

Dutch - the C-clamp contraption is what I used before I learned of dry patching.

Now all I use is dry patched with ballistol at 7:1.
 

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