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Login Name Post: Spanish Miquelet, where to get a lock kit?        (Topic#304898)
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
08-30-17 09:52 AM - Post#1641988    


The Spanish version of the Miquelet is very interesting to me.

Does anyone have pictures of how the sear works?

How about links to lock kits?

Thanks,
IdeZilla
ala PaulTBarton


 
Tinker2 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1811
08-30-17 11:09 AM - Post#1642000    

    In response to PaulTBarton

The rifle shoppe is where I have gotten them.
Not a kit, as cast parts.




William



 
Wes/Tex 
Cannon
Posts: 7718
Wes/Tex
08-30-17 05:14 PM - Post#1642030    

    In response to PaulTBarton

This outfit claims to have lock sets for may early style locks including Miquelet. I have had no dealing with them but perhaps someone else has. Good luck.

https://www.blackleyandson.com/acatalog/Lock_Sets_Doglock_Mi...

 
Zonie 
Moderator
Posts: 25659
Zonie
08-30-17 05:30 PM - Post#1642033    

    In response to PaulTBarton

The main sear in a Mequelet lock consists of a movable, rectangular piece of steel that slides thru a rectangular hole in the lockplate.
Without pressure on the trigger, the nose of the sear protrudes outward from the face of the lockplate.

The cock on a Mequelet lock has a fullcock surface or notch machined into it. When the cock is moved to the full cock position, the sear moves outward, into this notch.

The full cock sear nose and cock notch are often on the back side of the cock, when viewed from the outside of the lock.

Inside the lockplate there is a small bellcrank or pivoting lever attached to the sear.

Pulling the trigger forces this bellcrank to move and as it does so, it pulls the sear inward causing it to disengage its hold on the cock.

On almost all Mequelet locks there is a second sear which passes thru the lockplate like the main sear. This half cock sear may be machined onto the same material that creates the full cock sear.

There is a corresponding notch in the cock to hold the cock at the "half cocked" position when the cock is partially moved to the full cock position.
This half cock notch and sear are often located on the forward side of the cock when viewing it from the outside of the lock.
Just Jim...



 
Tinker2 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1811
08-30-17 08:20 PM - Post#1642052    

    In response to PaulTBarton

  • PaulTBarton Said:


Does anyone have pictures of how the sear works?




I would have to look but I think I have 5 Miquelet lock sets right now so…..
This just happens to be on my bench right now. Not mine but belongs to one of our forum members.
I have it to make some screws and drill some holes.

With Zonie’s post and some…

The cock, the toe is it's sear
[image] [/image]
Back/inside of lock
[image][/image]
Ftont of lock with sear just coming through and above half cock
[image][/image]
Sear/sear spring
[image][/image]
Half cock/sear lever
[image][/image]

Ask what you need to if pictures don’t help make it clear.

Hope this helps

William Alexander



 
curator 
45 Cal.
Posts: 523
curator
09-01-17 07:46 AM - Post#1642229    

    In response to Tinker2

PaulTBarton.

If the pictures are not explanatory enough, allow me to add some explanation. Unlike the "french flintlock", a Miquelet trigger does not push up on the sear, but pushes the end of the trigger bar to the rear. Since the trigger bar is pinned to pivot horizontally at the lock plate end, this action levers the two sears that protrude through the lock plate, withdrawing them. As the trigger lever is pulled back, first the "half cock sear (the round one) is pulled out of the way and then next the full-cock sear (rectangular one) is pulled from beneath the "spur" of the cock, allowing it to fall. A notch in the half cock sear engages the knife-edge of the cock spur and prevents the withdrawal of thay sear if the lock is not fully cocked.

 
ricky 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1914
09-01-17 01:45 PM - Post#1642262    

    In response to curator

Here are some photos that might assist with the above explanations. It shows the sear engaged in both the half and full cock positions. As mentioned, the sear moves horizontally rather than vertically as with the traditional flintlock. This mechanism actually pre-dates the traditional French style flintlock. Anyway hope these photos help.

Rick








 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
09-01-17 09:39 PM - Post#1642295    

    In response to ricky

Reason for those questions:
I would like to build up a pistol with this kind of lock & trigger assembly.

OK, wow, these pictures I will save along with their explanations.

Next question: can you show a picture of how the trigger lays/sits?

I imagine that the trigger is pinned above the sear bar so that the sear bar is forced rearward, correct?

Again many thanks for the pictures, I appreciate them.

Paul aka IdeZilla


 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
09-01-17 09:41 PM - Post#1642297    

    In response to Wes/Tex

OK, I have seen this casting set. I wish there was a larger set of photos and more info. I take it that these above photos are of that same lock, at least one set anyway.

Paul


Edited by PaulTBarton on 09-01-17 09:49 PM. Reason for edit: add more

 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
09-01-17 09:52 PM - Post#1642298    

    In response to Tinker2

William,
I see this link: Miquelet Lock castings

It would be nice to see pictures on their site.

Paul aka IdeZilla


 
Zonie 
Moderator
Posts: 25659
Zonie
09-01-17 11:09 PM - Post#1642305    

    In response to PaulTBarton

If you do decide to deal with the Rifle Shoppe, do not order your item on line.

The only way to order from this company is to call them by telephone and tell them exactly what you want.
When you do this, be sure to ask them if the item is currently in stock with all of the pieces and ready to ship.
They are a very small company and they might have to get up and go look for the kit or part so it might take a while to get an answer but before you tell them you want to buy it and close the deal, be sure the parts/kit is available.

They are a reputable company however, almost all of the things they offer are only available from them. The castings are custom made for them and if one or more of the parts is not in the kit, it can take years for the part to be made.

Yes. I said years.

The foundries don't take orders for one or two pieces so large lots of castings need to be ordered. Also, small buyers are often put at the bottom of the list by foundries who may be filling large commercial orders of parts.

More than a few of our members have had to wait that long for the pieces to be made and delivered to them.

Eventually, the parts will be sent but if you want to avoid this, be sure to ask about it.
Just Jim...



 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
09-02-17 11:25 AM - Post#1642326    

    In response to Zonie

OK, got it, thanks.

Paul


 
ricky 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1914
09-03-17 03:13 PM - Post#1642467    

    In response to PaulTBarton

Hi Paul.

Let me add a little more here. Yes, you are correct about the trigger installation. I can send you a pic when your ready.
Yes, the lock I posted above is the 1650's lock from TRS. It was ordered as a complete lock. I worried that if ordered as a kit, there might be part(s) missing or a wrong part. And would take forever to resolve. Yes, this has happened to many of us before. Do heed the advice Zonie mentions.
If they tell you over the phone that ALL the parts are IN STOCK for whatever you want, then go ahead. Otherwise, I would pass. The Blackley lock kit looks like a good option if that's the style your looking for.

Rick

 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
11-13-17 07:13 PM - Post#1651605    

    In response to ricky

OK, I got a casting set from Gustavo. It looks like this now (Nov/13/2017). Made the display stand today, no finish yet.

Edited by PaulTBarton on 11-13-17 07:14 PM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
BillinOregon 
Cannon
Posts: 6242
11-14-17 07:20 AM - Post#1651657    

    In response to PaulTBarton

Paul, nice job. How about a closeup of your lock? And how is the trigger pull? I am thinking with that lock geometry, there has be a large amount of friction to overcome.

 
wulf 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1588
11-14-17 09:13 PM - Post#1651795    

    In response to BillinOregon

No friction...all mine are smooth and quick.
I made five all from scratch and are a pleasure
to shoot. No lock jar. Flint don't have to be
perfect and lasts a long time. Not bashers.

 
rj morrison 
50 Cal.
Posts: 1365
rj  morrison
11-22-17 08:45 PM - Post#1652986    

    In response to PaulTBarton

http://www.mksikligar.com/ sells them

 
ricky 
54 Cal.
Posts: 1914
11-25-17 10:24 AM - Post#1653423    

    In response to PaulTBarton

Hey !!! Nice job. Looks good. How did you make the barrel band ?

Rick

 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
12-05-17 11:45 AM - Post#1655224    

    In response to ricky

I cut a strip of brass from a door kick panel (that was damaged). Annealed it to butter soft. Wrapped it around the barrel and stock. Tapped the band down into the space around the barrel above the stock with round stock. Wrapped the ends together and placed a 1/16 inch diameter brass rivet to hold it together while soldering. Filed the ends tapered so it was smooth inside and outside. Drilled a hole for the single screw. Sand and polish.

Barrel Band Pix 1

Barrel Band Pix 2

Paul


Edited by PaulTBarton on 12-05-17 11:52 AM. Reason for edit: No reason given.

 
PaulTBarton 
40 Cal.
Posts: 128
12-05-17 11:47 AM - Post#1655225    

    In response to BillinOregon

Bill,
This lock is smoother than some of my underhammers and TC flintlocks. I love it. I just need some shoulder screws for the hammer and frizzen.

Paul


 
curator 
45 Cal.
Posts: 523
curator
12-05-17 02:26 PM - Post#1655247    

    In response to PaulTBarton

Paul,

Try Stock Drive Products/Sterling Instruments for Shoulder screws.
link: https://shop.sdp-si.com/catalog?cid=p779

 
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