Cleaning Antique Tools

(Please feel free to move this topic of the post is misplaced)

I keep an eye out at antique stores for things like broadaxes and, most recently, found a pair of old carpenter's pliers. They were not in terrible shape, so I was able to clean them up pretty well with some Ballistol and a copper wire brush.

What about the items that are thickly encrusted with dirt and rust? Is there something I could soak it in to help break the stuff up before I start scrubbing? I have an old cast iron skillet that is in really rough shape, for instance, and would like to at least get it looking like a cast iron skillet

I've heard of a product called Evapo-Rust ( Evapo-Rust ) which is available at a variety of stores and at Harbor Freight ( HF Evapo-Rust ). Purportedly non-toxic and is a little expensive, but apparently can be re-used. I've not used the product, but from what I've read, it works well.

If the item was heavily encrusted with dirt, I'd give it a good wash with water then into rust-remover

Molasses and water works for me, 1 part molasses 7 parts water, mix well and let the part
sit in it for a week or more.




William

i use the electrolysis method.
https://www.familyhandyman.com/workshop/how-to-remove-rust-with-electrolysis/view-all/

I also mess with old cars. Many of the penetrating oils will loosen and clean rusted items. Also soaking in automatic transmission fluid with mineral spirits will help loosen rust. I wouldn't use that for cooking items though.

There is a recent thread on cast iron cleaning in the camping etc section.

Kerosene, soak for about a week then lightly oooo steel wool.

Thank you all. Figured there were a few different ways to do it. Seems like at antique and junk stores they let things go for dirt cheap if it looks rough. I got that cast iron skillet for $1 and the pliers for the same

Totally recommend Evapo-Rust, I love using it on old tools that I want to use and work with because it takes off the rust without removing the darkened iron/steel patina. The product does not reduce the surface to a bright, shiny one.

Have to add another vote for Evaporust.

:thumbsup:


Although I've never heard of the molasses solution..., my wife has a couple of "heirloom" tools from her family when they lived in the Caribbean, and I will try the molasses on them.

LD

That is good to hear. Looks like evaporust will help with the desired end product.

Loyalist Dave said:

...my wife has a couple of "heirloom" tools from her family when they lived in the Caribbean, and I will try the molasses on them...

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Okie Hog (above) references the most effective method of removing rust from steel & iron. Keep in mind this method removes rust/iron oxide, but will leave a pit, the depth depends on the severity of the rust. I don't know of an effective rust removal method that will not leave pits. If the rust is mostly surface discoloration, EvapoRust (also cited above) is an excellent choice.

Hard to beat electrolysis. I have used this stuff with good result on pitted antique rifles from Nepal:
http://www.kramerize.com/using_on_wood.htm

another vote for molasses, fancy stuff- Crosby's not the walmart import.The new offering from walmart is brown sugar and water as near as I can tell.

Soak time is dependent on temp and it is a biological process it takes time for things to get going.

You will be left with a "french Grey" finish and the item will resist rust for a long time. I believe that there is an argument to made for using molasses as a finishing method- but I figure it is a guild secret so shhhhh. Occassionall take the part out and rinse the surface with hot water, a scum will form on it that insulates it from the action.

Molasses has a long history in industry/shipping/power production as a cleaner of steel. Probaley a few million gallons in use at any one time. A google search will reveal how extensive it's use is world wide.

Evaporust and a water/molasses slury are indistinguishable with the nose after a week of soaking iron in em.

Generally in the US there seems to be a huge cultural resistence to using molasses and water in the shop...... My guess is that someone could get confused about the purpose and assume rum was the indended outcome and not clean pliers LOL.

always used kerosene with just enough ATF to turn it red ( to keep my customers wondering ).......soak metal parts indefinitely w/no worries.......then gently brass brush the rust/gunk that's left away.
it saved my Grand-Dads #1 Craftsman hand drill that was locked up with rust.........(Grand Dad died in 1940)......I use that drill at least once a week still

I inspect and repair close-tolerance turbine engine parts for a living, and can recommend plastic bead media or powdered-glass media in a blasting cabinet for an absolutely rust and gunk-free finish.
The plastic media cleans while leaving the original finish, or patina, if so desired. The glass media is a little more aggressive depending on granule size. The small granule size we use at work will take it down to bare metal but leave even very lightly etched serial numbers, revision numbers, brand names, etc. intact. The distance the operator holds the blasting gun from the tool or part makes a difference as well.
Just be sure to mask off any areas you do not want to blast such as wood or plastic handles and such.

Always worked for me.

If they are heavily encrusted use a wire cup brush on an angle grinder, but remember to wear a mask, or if you don't have an angle grinder a hand brush. You can then put them into a container of vinegar and leave for a few days. I use clear distilled vinegar.

Believe it or not, a strong salt water solution will work. Dissolve as much salt as possible into your water and COMPLETELY immerse your rusty steel item. If it is not completely covered there will be a nasty corrosion spot where it meets the water line. I did this to a pipe wrench that had lain for who knows how long in the bottom of an irrigation canal exposed to flooding and the weather. The wrench works fine and it was in really bad shape, covered with mud and rust. It is very pitted and ugly but I use it now and then. I don't know about doing this on anything but steel. Google it for more instructions. I would think long and hard before I did this to any kind of precision instrument or a firearm though.

Evapo-rust, nothing else comes close.

Avoid Naval Jelly, it etches the metal.

For large items look up how to remove the rust with electrolytic action. You only need a battery, washing soda, another piece of metal and a bucket.