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Hello,

I need some info on how to make a loading block.
I have some nice oak.... Is this a good wood or is it too hard.

Also for 54 cal. is their a fitting drillbit??
 
Here you go...courtesy of the MLF / Musketman:

PictureinLoadingBlockDrillSizes.jpg
 
Rosko Fischer said:
Hello,

I need some info on how to make a loading block.
I have some nice oak.... Is this a good wood or is it too hard.

Also for 54 cal. is their a fitting drillbit??

Almost any wood will work. Hard better than soft. Most blocks need final fitting of the patched ball intended to be used. This is done with sandpaper. They are a fun project.
 
"HOW TO MAKE A LOADING BLOCK?".....Again! :doh: :doh: :doh:

Sorry, but you might do a search on this forum, as there have been about a gazzillion threads on these!

Get board + drill holes + load patch and ball = Loading black! .... :rotf: :rotf: :rotf: :rotf:

Sorry, This damn heat has fried my brain!
 
Also I find it useful to taper the holes in loading blocks. If you don't have a taper reamer ( and most people don't ) you can taper the holes with a wooden dowel tapered and split and wrapped with sand paper.Tapering the holes makes for easier loading and still firmly holding the patched balls. :idunno:
 
I put a little more into it than that.
I plane the wood to be used to just a 1/2 hair thicker than the ball diameter. Then I cut and drill. Then I sand the holes and bevel the edges. Sometimes I stain and rub with a wax, sometimes not.
The tapering thing is a new idea to me. IMHO, doesn't seem necessary.
 
Rifleman1776 said:
I plane the wood to be used to just a 1/2 hair thicker than the ball diameter.

Same here. In my case I like to seat my balls so they extend a little below the bottom of the block, making it easier to position them over the muzzle. Especially with small cals and hare hunting, which involves a lot of shooting. Once they're seated that deep I cut the patching material so it is flush with the top of the board. I've had lots of cases where excess patch sticking above the board hangs on stuff and pulls the ball free in my bag.
 
I take a ball and patch out of my pouch and place over the muzzle of my gun of choice and push them down into the bore and send the whole thing home to the powder with my ramrod! __ Very backwards and primitive, but I don't have one more thing to have dangling off my pouch or carrying in it!
 
One of the problems we see over and over again these days are people asking questions about "Making things" who have never bought any tools of any kind and have no clue how tools are used. They see good text, and better pictures on a site like this and get excited about "building their own".

Credit that to our public schools removing "shop classes " from most school curriculums, and so many kids being raised in urban rentals where there is no parent or workshop.shop available to learn about tools as I did from my father as a boy. Add into the mix a general disdain by so-called educated people for anyone who works with hands, and tools, and you reach this sorry state of ignorance.

We need to welcome these new interested folks to this kind of work, as basic or generic equipment can be enhanced later with- or replaced with better products that reflect-- hand Art work. Its never too late in life to learn how to use tools. The satisfaction one gets from making anything with your own hands is priceless. :hatsoff:
 
Paul, I agree with what you said. But until about nine years ago, when we moved to our current home, I never had a real shop and never had any training. My excuses for drill presses were one of those clamp thingys that held a corded 1/4" electric drill and an antique hand crank drill press. With those and some cobbled together hand tools I made a lot of accessories. The electric 'drill press' was also my machinist, sorta lathe. I used files and broken files to cut and grind items. I have never been a skilled craftsman but do like spending time in my current shop where my main product output is usually a big pile of sawdust and shavings. It can be done and is fun.
 

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