What size round ball in 20 guage?

Hello,
I am working out a deal with a guy that has a 20 guage smooth bore for sale. Im buying it. What size roundball/patch combo work the best and how much powder behind them?

thanks aaron

I use a .600 round ball and .015 spit patch with 60 gr. of goex 3F powder in my smoothbore with a 36" barrel. This load is good to about 60 yds. and gives me good groups.

If the 20 has a Green Mountain barrel, you'll need a .595 for use with ticking. Their bore is really tight, and even a .600 ball requires you to use very thin patches. There appears to be quite a range in what "20 gauge" or 62 cal means, because a bud has one that requires a .610 ball with ticking.

That's kind of the normal range, but unless you know the maker or can take a mike to the bore, it's a crapshoot. Track of the Wolf and others sell several sizes, so even without a mike you can experiment cheaply before buying a mold.

thomp shooter said:

Hello,
I am working out a deal with a guy that has a 20 guage smooth bore for sale. Im buying it. What size roundball/patch combo work the best and how much powder behind them?
thanks aaron

Click to expand...

My advice is wait until you get it then carefully mic the bore diameter.

My 32" GM bore diameter is .610" and it likes a .595" + .018" + 100grns Goex 2F for typical thick woods distances with whitetails;

My 38" Rice bore diameter is a full .620" and shoots like a rifle with .600" + .022" + 110grns Goex 2F.

If you follow the logic of some who have posed on the gauge system the bore size will be approx .615 by the British standrds estabilshed in the 1860's wich as mentioned is also the same as the balls per lb which results in a ball over .610 by most charts there is usually some slight differences in various charts as to the diameter of various balls per lb bt it is usually slight, some say the a 20 bore or 20 gauge will have the bore size the same as a ball of 20 per lb or .615 approx this is so one can now how many shots one gets per lb, so if you have a .615 bore and use balls that are .615,this will make shooting such a gun/load interesting, most likely the bore size will be some what larger than the actual size of ball or "balls per lb" used, if the bore is .615 or so (typical 20 gauge)the gun will likely shoot balls of 21 or 22 per lb or .600-.580 give or take

I use a .590 ball in both of my colerain barrels, around .017 patch. A .600 loads too hard for me. flinch

I agree with Flinch but use a .015 patch.
Mark

...i use a .600 with 70gr 2f and a lubed cushion wad split in two...one half under one half over...no patch... :shocked2: :shocked2: :shocked2:

I use a .600 ball from a Rapine bag mold. My Northwest gun has a .618 bore, so I use unbleached muslin for patching. My Middlesex Village howdah pistol has a .629 bore, so I use pillow ticking for a patch. Bore Butter for lube in both guns.

I was just looking at a Pedersoli 20 ga SxS at Track of the Wolf. According to their measure the cylinder bore is .628 and the IC bore is .618 at the muzzles.

I bought a .590 mold with the intention of using WW metal. A .600 pure lead ball with .015 patch shoots well enough but seats with protest especially after the first shot. The load is still a work in progress.

I have 3 "20s", one measures .610, one .620 and the other .625. They all shoot great with .600 ball and .007, .015 and .023 patches. I've used from 70 to 140 grs. of 2F. When you get your barrel mike it, figure out your ball and patch and start with about 70 gr. 2F or 3F.
Deadeye

When I got my 20 ga, I started with a .600 ball and a .018 patch. Too hard to start and load plus accuracy was mediocre. Switched to a .010 patch--loading was easier, but accuracy remained mediocre. Like Hanshi, I bought a .590 mold. Now I shoot a .590 ball with a .015 patch, 70 grains 2F. Starts with thumb pressure, loads easily plus 50 yd. accuracy greatly improved. Placed first in a local 50 yd smoothbore (no rear sight) event using that combo.

You'll have to experiment with various ball and patch combos to optimize a load for your gun as bore diameters vary. My bore seems to be on the tight side. Experimenting is part of the fun! Good luck.

I don't think there are any TRUE 20 ga. barrels out there- at least I haven't seen many.

This means that you HAVE TO measure the bore of your barrel(s) with a micrometer, or caliper, before choosing the size ball, and patch thickness to use in that gun. Some barrels are as small as .605". Other are as large as .627" That runs the gambit from a 21 gauge to a 19 gauge bore!

YOU CANNOT RELY ON THE FACT THAT THE BARREL IS MARKED "20 GAUGE", NOR ON WHAT SOMEONE TELLS YOU IT IS BY LOOKING AT THE MUZZLE.

My particular " 20 ga. barrel ", for instance, is closer to that 19 ga. size( .629" nominally), so I am using .610" diameter balls, and a .015" thick patch in my gun. I have read here of members having to use balls as small as .585" in their smaller diameter barrels to get good accuracy.

The good news is that you can buy wads, and cards from Circle Fly, and other suppliers, in any numbered gauge you need for that barrel. I am using some 20 ga. "cushion wads"( 'cause they are loaded much easier) on top of a 19 ga. OP wad, and a 19 ga. OS card to hold PRB, or shot loads in the barrel of my gun. When I finally use up those 20 gauge cushion wads, I will buy something else, but right now, these "Pre-lubed" cushion wads load much easier, while helping to lube the bore as they are compressed against the bore walls, when the gun is fired. :hatsoff:

My Colerain barrel likes a .590 ball with .018 patch. If I go to a .600 ball and thinner patch that will allow me to get it down the bore, it is not fun to load at all and I get burned patches. Like many have said, you need to measure the bore to now for sure. Then it is a matter of testing to see what works best. IMO a patch thickness under .015 in any gun is usually not good for me and my guns. It wants to burn to easily. Your mileage may vary.

My bobby christian loads a 600 round ball cast from WW scrap,I don't patch but use an OXYOKE 20ga wool felt wad with bees wax and Olive oil lubricant, over 60gr FFg, over the ball I use another same wad,groups @ 60yds as less than 3" with only a front site, I posted it here several weeks back. The guy I bought it from recomended the set up and it works.I think all and all it'll take some experimententing ,measuring and such to sort it out (thats where all the fun is)

Don't Guess! Please. Its too frustrating! Without actually knowing the EXACT diameter of the bore of your barrel, by MEASURING IT YOURSELF, you are GUESSING!

You don't tell us the source or even the manufacturer of the gun barrel you have. Green Mountain is know for selling 20 gauge barrels, for instance, that are bored UNDERSIZED, often .605"- which is actually the nominal diameter of a 21 gauge barrel! :shocked2: :surrender: :thumbsup:

If you want better than " minute of deer" accuracy, you need to measure that bore, and buy components according to what that measurement tells you will FIT. :idunno: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

After measuring my bore with calipers several times I've come to the conclusion it is .625". A lead ball at a true .600 dia and .015 patch loads with difficulty especially after the first shot. Same with a .605 WW ball and .010 patching. This is why I acquired the .590 mold. The tight seating got me to thinking, is it a .615-.620 rather than a full .625? It could just be my inexperience with smooth bores. I do know the absence of grooves crowds the patch since the material has nowhere to compress. What say the forum?

I think you have it right, about smoothbores not giving any Leeway for patch fabric to move or "stretch", compared to what happens in rifles.

My first shots with RB that were .600" diameter, in my .6265 bore were with very thin denim, that my brother gave me from some stash. Neither of us like the results. Clearly they were too thin, for that ball/bore combination, as shown by the dark wide, black ring, and streaks on the spent patches. I have thrown what I had left of that stuff away.

I bought some Mattress ticking, and its been washed. I need to iron it to make it easier to cut into strips, and then I can get back to testing. Its measuring close to .015" thick, right now, but I want to measure it again after its ironed.

I also was given a handful of .610" balls to try. We will see. I would much prefer to use a thick patch, and a smaller diameter ball, than a larger ball, and a thin patch.

I also tried using an OP wad, under both my RB, and shot loads, and saw an immediate, and substantial increase in velocity, using the 19 gauge, .125"thick, Vegetable Fiber wads. I am taking over 200 fps! In rifles, I have found using an OP wad will increase MV by 50-75 fps., but never as much as I found with this fowler. POI at 25 yds rose 8 inches, Too!

One of the reasons I am trying to find the correct patch/ball combination for this barrel is so I don't have to use an OP wad. Its not much of a hassle, compared to loading shot loads, but like most everyone else, I am searching for the simplest loading procedure that produces the best result. Since the air in front of my OP wad is pushed through the powder charge, and out the TH, putting the OP wad down is no big problem. Its just another step. If I can avoid it, I will. :thumbsup:

agree with you completely ...that is why I tried the OP and OB felt wads as suggested by the previous owner...I guess he did all the other work cause done that way the thing SHOOTS..not saying it'll work for everybody but sure works for this SB pour the powder stick a wad in the bore set a ball on the wad add a wad and shove the whole shebang down prime and KABOOM Heck this thig @ 60yds shoots about as accurate as my old investarms hawkin shoots TC maxi's