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Should A Sealant Be Used On Breech Plug Threads?

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I think it would be best to buy a tube of Birchwood Casey's Choke Tube Lube (or a similar type of grease). This is an anti-seize grease which will allow for the easy removal of the breech plug in the future. Using automotive sealants would not be advisable but I'm sure someone has done it.
 
Your going in the wrong direction, you want anti-seize compound for the threads.

The thread engagement is what seals the breach not some dope, you put the anti-seize to help prevent galling of the threads upon assembly and also to facilitate ease of removal if and when the need arises.
 
Add me to the antiseize crowd. Try to keep it off the outside of the barrel and breech plug as it impedes browning in the worst old way!
 
NAPA has little single use packets of anti seize for like .75 each. use it and toss it. Beats it getting all over everything, which is what it always seems to do.
 
I use the choke tube lube but only apply it to the female threads so when browning it doesn't interfere w/ the browning process at the tang/bbl junction....Fred
 
Thanks for the replies guys.

My thinking was that the plug will never be removed from the barrel (at least I can't foresee why I would ever want to do that). So it struck me as logical to use a sealant to fill the tiny voids between the threads that gasses could enter, and thus reduce the possibility of corrosion.
 
I ALWAYS use antisieze on breech plugs when possible. You don't intend on pulling breech plugs but if you ever do it really makes a difference. A few times I had to install a breech plug and did not have any antisieze I have used permetex and on the one that was later removed it came out easier than usual. So I would say permetex can be used.But remember this is my personal opinion and worth what you paid for it! :idunno:
 
No one ever thinks he is going to "Dry-Ball" his barrel either. :shocked2:

There are many reasons why breech plugs HAVE to be removed from barrels. Use the anti-seize. :thumbsup:
 
Dry balls are easy to deal with. Broken off & stuck jags are easy to deal with. I've never found the need to pull a breechplug, even on the two rifles I've had for 40+ years. :v

But that's not the issue. Please note that the product description in the the first link I provided states "lubricates threads for easy assembly and disassembly". And the description in the second link states "controlled locking strength affords easy disassembly".

The question is whether the Permatex "sealant" provides a better fill in the threads than does something like choke tube lube or anti-seize, and better protection against rust/corrosionon in the threads.
 
If the barrel is breached properly there is no need to "fill" the threads.

The seal is not made by the threads. The seal is made by the face of the plug being tightened against the relieved area in the breach end of the barrel. The threads are just the mechanical means of holding the plug tight.

Anti-sieze is what is recommended for breach plugs as it prevents corrosion, which is what you want, this why it allows the plug to be removed again...even if you never intend to.

Enjoy, J.D.
 
No permatex.
You want anti-seize.
To parrot the others, You don't make a seal with the threads, it's the edges of the base of the breech plug against a shoulder in the barrel.
You may very well never need to remove the breech plug ever again, but anti-seize will prevent galling of the threads and make it possible if ever needed.
 
jdkerstetter said:
The seal is not made by the threads. The seal is made by the face of the plug being tightened against the relieved area in the breach end of the barrel.

I am curious about the countless original pieces that did not have a relieved area at the breach end of the barrel, what was it that prevented them from rotting away from gas cutting of the threads ?

Also if thread engagement is a non issue then I should be able to breach a barrel with my fingers right up to the last 1/2 flat or so before I need to apply a wrench.

:hmm:
 
I am curious about the countless original pieces that did not have a relieved area at the breach end of the barrel, what was it that prevented them from rotting away from gas cutting of the threads ?

I suspect they used something like pine tar. Maybe bees wax?
 
I forget who wrote it, but someone who has handled a bunch of originals stated that breech plugs on originals weren't put in as tightly as we do today. I read that a year or so ago on this board, so hopefully they will come along and corroborate my tale!

I put them on pretty tight and I do fit the face of the plug to the shoulder as a good seal against gasses getting into the threads. I also use anti sieze so it can be removed if necessary.

The pre-breeched barrels that I have used from Rice all come pretty tight and with the face well fit to the shoulder. I have no idea if it is really necessary but since one of the very well regarded barrel makers does it that way, I copy their methods when using a barrel that hasn't had the plug fit. It doesn't take that long and is easy insurance.
 
It has been my experience that the few origionals I have worked on were "rust sealed". The first few shots would fill the voids with fouling which then rusted every thing solid! Long before lock tite the old timers would often thow a chemical on to bolts and nuts to speed rusting on parts they did not want to come loose. Rust sealing is a very strong sealant/binder. :idunno:
 
bogie said:
Add me to the antiseize crowd. Try to keep it off the outside of the barrel and breech plug as it impedes browning in the worst old way!

+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :shake: :shake: :shake:



:shake:
 
The only breech plug that I have removed from an old gun had a thread somewhere between 5/8-11 (?) and a cork screw. It sealed on the face without much torque.
Robby
 
ApprenticeBuilder said:
Also if thread engagement is a non issue then I should be able to breach a barrel with my fingers right up to the last 1/2 flat or so before I need to apply a wrench.:hmm:

Did I say thread engagement was not important? I said the threads are not what seals the breach.

The threads draw the breachplug up making a compression fit....that's why you have to use the wrench. Thread fit is important but there is still space, however slight, between the male and felmale threads in most applications.

Enjoy, J.D.
 

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