Why 2 triggers?

Easy fix, take it out, make a new one and install...No problem....

Don't know if I'm there yet.

Be Wild Willy said:

No need to be rude HBH, everyone's entitled to their own opinions.

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Just returnin' the love! What's wrong with my opinion? :idunno:

necchi, you're awesome! Mine is a pre-98.

A T/C New Englader is a single trigger model

Sorta off topic,

I have a T/C Hawken with double trigger and I like it for the range. I have the front adjusted to fire when I touch it. Very much a hair trigger. Curious - do most guys use the set triggers when hunting? Or do they just fire off the front trigger without setting the rear first?

Chris, I have two custom rifles and I use the set triggers all the time. Using them has never been an issue.

T.C.used to offer a single trigger conversion for the Hawken. You might search an auction site for one.

Look at Track of the Wolf site for single trigger with plate that looks like it might work with a little work. You must get the trigger bar at the correct location or it will be harder to trip the sear because of leverage.

Good Luck

Bob

I use the set trigger on my Renegade at the range sometimes and the front trigger only while hunting. Using the set trigger (setting it) makes too much noise in the woods for me. Maybe I am not doing it right?
Anyway, I recently acquired a Renegade Hunter stock and I'll be switching to using one trigger all the time soon.

ChrisHarris said:

Sorta off topic,

I have a T/C Hawken with double trigger and I like it for the range. I have the front adjusted to fire when I touch it. Very much a hair trigger. Curious - do most guys use the set triggers when hunting? Or do they just fire off the front trigger without setting the rear first?

Click to expand...

My Bedford will not fire without setting the trigger.

How hard is this to do Leatherbark?

If your barrel tang is mounted with wood screws then your trigger plate is also.
Look on Track of the Wolfs single trigger page for a trigger plate and single trigger that looks close to your trigger plate.
The plate and trigger will need positioned to the same pivot point and trigger bar point as yours is now.
There should be a shiny spot on yours where it is tripping the sear.
You will have to experiment with its correct placement to give you an acceptable trigger pull, then inlet it and secure with screws.
Then there is the trigger guard! Your new trigger should fit up somewhere in the middle of the guard.
This is something that you have to dive in and play it by ear if you 've never done anything like this.
Much easier for us old timers to do it than to explain how

Good luck

Bob

Thanks.

I have a TC Hawken and the set and non set function are ok. Also the TG allows good hand postion for using both trigs.

On the Lyman gprs', NOT!!

I'm with you on the single versus set, especially for hunting.

You might pull your TC trigger and look at the possibility of removing the set apparatus and the front trigger and replacing the set trigger with a single trigger. DISCLOSURE: I dont have mine in front of me and this may be one of my hare brained ideas :redface: :shocked2: Proceed with caution!!

Look for a used TC PA Hunter with a 31" 1/66 twist .50. They only come with a nice large trigger guard for gloved hands and a single trigger. Take the spring out of the lock and replace it with a ball point pen spring (It's the one that is up in a chamber above the sear arm). You will have a nice rifle for under 400 bucks.

There is a nice one on Ebay right now; stock and barrel with everything but the lock for 250; great deal in my opinion.

Here is a cheap, easy way to test the waters. To get a light trigger pull with a single trigger you must pin the trigger much higher. The trigger is a lever and if you lengthen the leg that your finger pushes against it lightens the pull. The tabs on a trigger plate are not high enough to pin such a trigger so the time honored PC way is to remove the lock and drill a hole in the wood under the lock and pin a trigger there. You may need to deepen the slot for the trigger a little. You can make a trigger out of plexiglas in a few minutes and see how you like the difference. A trigger pinnned high can have a light pull- not as much as a set trigger but still very good- and it is fool proof- nothing to go wrong. If you like it make a steel trigger using the plexiglas as a pattern.
BUT...first play around a little more with the set trigger. I use both on various guns.

His problem is,, he say's the trigger is too far forward.
Tuff part of that whole "change the trigger" thing is it's a 1/2" mortice, and the few triggers in the TOW catalog that have the same curve to the plate put the trigger in the exact same place.
He's much better off finding the factory single trigger unit on an auction or from T/C.
I wonder if hillbillyhans needs to cut a half inck off the stock?

The LOP is o.k., in fact I wouldn't mind it a little longer. I just don't like my hand stretched out. A more relaxed grip is better for trigger pull, and it allows me to decide where on the pad of my finger I place the trigger.

I've used both single and double set triggers and have found that I need to practice with both to find the right let-off comsistently. Lyman triggers are anywhere from decent to awful. It depends on which gun (trigger assembly) you get. My T/C has a much better trigger but I never use it for hunting in set mode. The firsat time I hunted with my T/C I used the set trigger and fired about 3 ft high with my gloved finger. I never used it that way again. I practice at the range using both single and double triggers and knowing where your trigger will break is an obligation you owe to your self if you want to have any chamce of firing decent groups. I also pulled mt trigger assembly out and polishied it mildly wih 0000 steel wool and lubed it with a very light oil. 75% better in about 10 min work.
Also many fans of adding a Davis trigger but I've never tried one.