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18th century rope

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rcbelding

36 Cal.
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
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Location
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I'm off soon to my first rendezvous in years. I have got a lot of nylon rope, but somehow that doesn't seem 'right' to use on my Whelan lean to.

My question is - Is sisal rope authentic for the 18th century in North America?? (I assume manila rope is).
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Warning on powder container - 'Always make sure no embers are smouldering in the barrel' So I ALWAYS blow down the barrel after each discharge.
 
sisel is a far cry better than nylon, but if I had my pick the local harware I'e go with manilla until you found a source for good hemp line.
just a reminder, don't stre the line with the canvas. if it's treated youll stain your canvas.
 
Cachem,Sisal would be accepted,but in the long run Manilla would hold up better.Manilla can be hard to find.Most of your Farm&Barn places sell it by the foot.Some places may even sell you a huge roll and cut you a deal that way.My buddy and I bought a 500' roll and split it.Still were a little short for our 2 wall tents.The bigger shelters take a lot of rope when you add in storm ropes for tent and awning.Do some shopping around because the price varies quite a bit place to place.Good luck.
 
Neither sisal or manila rope is correct for the 18th century. That said, under the circumstances they are better than nylon.

Hemp rope is the way to go. Turkeyfoot Trading has it in several diameters, by the foot or in spools. There are also other sources to be found on the net.
 
Is sisal rope authentic for the 18th century in North America??
Like said Nope,
but there are darn few folks at ANY Rendezvous that will know the differance at a glance let alone approach and tell you it's the wrong stuff.

I use wood tensioners on my ropes, a small block with holes to tie one end and slide the other through so I can adjust tention as thew temp changes and the wind beats around my canvis.

I have been approached and told that they are not correct and I should just use knots.
My responce is that almost all the poles used for the common tent's are not correct, that we should just walk over hack up the nearby forest and leave lay what we cut when we leave.
 
necchi said:
...poles used for the common tent's are not correct, that we should just walk over hack up the nearby forest and leave lay what we cut when we leave.
Then there is the question of the PC/HC-ness of everyone using tents.....
 
Black Hand said:
necchi said:
...poles used for the common tent's are not correct, that we should just walk over hack up the nearby forest and leave lay what we cut when we leave.
Then there is the question of the PC/HC-ness of everyone using tents.....

Yes, this old subject could go on forever.
However, I do it right. I just go out and kill a fresh buff everyday for meat. Not like those backsliders who keep red plactic coolers hidden in their lodge. :wink: :rotf:
 
Rifleman1776 said:
Black Hand said:
necchi said:
...poles used for the common tent's are not correct, that we should just walk over hack up the nearby forest and leave lay what we cut when we leave.
Then there is the question of the PC/HC-ness of everyone using tents.....

Yes, this old subject could go on forever.
However, I do it right. I just go out and kill a fresh buff everyday for meat. Not like those backsliders who keep red plactic coolers hidden in their lodge. :wink: :rotf:

It's amazing what you can do with a handful of dried rations, even at an extended camp. Coolers, while nice, are completely unnecessary (yes, even if you do bring fresh meat). If you confine yourself to the rations/beverages that were available then, no refrigeration of any sort is required (though a cold beer is always nice in hot weather, but can be done without).
 
As an aside, it isn't too difficult to make your own 2-strand hemp rope using hemp twine and a power drill.
 
You are correct that nylon rope does not belong in a period camp
(unless the period is late 20th c). Many people do not know the difference between sisal & manila but as others have mentioned, hemp is best both for PC and for being both stronger and much smoother on the hand. The only downsides to hemp are higher cost and the fact that it shrinks when wet so when a good rain is coming, it is wise to loosen up hemp ropes. I used to use knots (a prussic variation) to adjust tension but when really wet, they would swell up & jamb so I went over to the wood dogs used by so many. Turkeyfoot Trading has nice hemp.
 
I make my own ropes with either hemp twine when I can find it cheap, or Jute, which is also correct, but I confess that I have some sisal ropes as well.

Here are two period produced, illustrations of tents with "sliders". Not all of the tents illustrated in several of this artist's images have them when support ropes are shown, but these two do, and there are some others.


In the first image the majority of the sliders are close to the tent stakes, and some folks think they are also stakes..., but the far left rope has a slider farther up, note the gap between the doubled-up line.

Paul Sandby Drawing - sliders on lines on tent on left

In this watercolor, the sliders are well defined, the best are on the two lines on the left near the barrels...
Another Sandby c. 1780, watercolor, tent with sliders

LD
 
Loyalist Dave said:
I make my own ropes with either hemp twine when I can find it cheap, or Jute, which is also correct, but I confess that I have some sisal ropes as well.

Here are two period produced, illustrations of tents with "sliders". Not all of the tents illustrated in several of this artist's images have them when support ropes are shown, but these two do, and there are some others.


In the first image the majority of the sliders are close to the tent stakes, and some folks think they are also stakes..., but the far left rope has a slider farther up, note the gap between the doubled-up line.

Paul Sandby Drawing - sliders on lines on tent on left

In this watercolor, the sliders are well defined, the best are on the two lines on the left near the barrels...
Another Sandby c. 1780, watercolor, tent with sliders

LD
Jute may be period for the 19th century or later (http://www.worldjute.com/about_jute/juthist.html).
"Until the middle 1880's, the jute industry was confined almost entirely to Dundee and Calcutta. France, America, and later Germany, Belgium, Italy, Austria, and Russia, among others, turned to jute manufacturing in the latter part of the 19th century."

As to the sliders, I still don't see them. In both illustrations, what I see are either taut-line hitches or leftover rope coiled and hanging from the knots. There just isn't enough detail to say for sure.
 
As to the sliders, I still don't see them. In both illustrations, what I see are either taut-line hitches or leftover rope coiled and hanging from the knots. There just isn't enough detail to say for sure.

Well, check out this version of the painting by Paul Sandby. Click on the painting and enlarge to maximum level scan the tent pegs and ropes. They sure look like dog bones to me even the shape.

Paul Sandby Painting
 
Coot said:
You are correct that nylon rope does not belong in a period camp
(unless the period is late 20th c). Many people do not know the difference between sisal & manila but as others have mentioned, hemp is best both for PC and for being both stronger and much smoother on the hand. The only downsides to hemp are higher cost and the fact that it shrinks when wet so when a good rain is coming, it is wise to loosen up hemp ropes. I used to use knots (a prussic variation) to adjust tension but when really wet, they would swell up & jamb so I went over to the wood dogs used by so many. Turkeyfoot Trading has nice hemp.

New hemp rope should be soaked in water and dried before the first use. That will preshrink it so knots will not tighten up when it rains.
 
After many cycles of soaking & drying, it still swells (tightening knots & shortening lines) each time once it is thoroughly wet.
 
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