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Stake on Tennons
- Thread starter mb3
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I've only done it once using a borrowed set of underlug staple tools from TOW (and lots of advice from the owner of the tools). It was a clean, simple process and no need for silver solder. There's a very good explanation of the process in their print catalog.
But like I said, that was a one-time affair. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same again without solder, but I'll certainly yield to the greater experience base here on the site.
But like I said, that was a one-time affair. I wouldn't hesitate to do the same again without solder, but I'll certainly yield to the greater experience base here on the site.
StewartLeach
40 Cal.
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This isn't very hard if you pay attention. Two things are important, and a third can be improved. It is important to get the spacing correct- Track of the Wolf sells a punch tool. Be sure to drill to just the prescribed depth- use a drill stop, or drill and try until the loop or lug sits just right.
When putting together a 40 cal barrel for a Lyman GP percussion rifle I used the TOTW stake down loops. After drilling with the bit called out in the instructions, I found the studs on the loops to be quite a loose fit in the holes. The next time I had this task I measured the diameters and selected a bit diameter to just clear the studs. Then it took a lot fewer hammer blows to displace the metal to secure the studs.
Be sure the barrel under the loop is well supported when using hammer and hollowed punch to move the metal.
White Fox
When putting together a 40 cal barrel for a Lyman GP percussion rifle I used the TOTW stake down loops. After drilling with the bit called out in the instructions, I found the studs on the loops to be quite a loose fit in the holes. The next time I had this task I measured the diameters and selected a bit diameter to just clear the studs. Then it took a lot fewer hammer blows to displace the metal to secure the studs.
Be sure the barrel under the loop is well supported when using hammer and hollowed punch to move the metal.
White Fox
I don't use them often, but when I do I use a flat carbide milling bit so it has a flat bottom in the hole.
Careful measurement & a drill stop is Crucial...... And if a swamped barrel, measure at Each Lug, don't guess
or assume anything.... :shake:
Keith Lisle
Careful measurement & a drill stop is Crucial...... And if a swamped barrel, measure at Each Lug, don't guess
or assume anything.... :shake:
Keith Lisle
Birddog6 said:
Good tip. I always make homemade staples, and bevel the "feet" to match the point of the drill. I've often wondered if drilling a flat hole would be better for the flat footed store-bought staples. Now I know. :thumbsup: Bill
MB, I solder all my staples, just my little thing to ensure my homemade staples are anchored as well as the store bought, so a pic won't do you much good.
My staking tool is a shaped tang from a worn out rattail file. Nice and hard. I ground the end small and square to move metal over the hole and cover the feet of the staple. If I ever get a little smarter, I'm just going to buy one of those staking tools from Track. :surrender: I think any kind of hard steel, ground to a small square or rectangular end will work. One time, I even used an old screwdriver with the handle removed. Hope this helps. Bill.
My staking tool is a shaped tang from a worn out rattail file. Nice and hard. I ground the end small and square to move metal over the hole and cover the feet of the staple. If I ever get a little smarter, I'm just going to buy one of those staking tools from Track. :surrender: I think any kind of hard steel, ground to a small square or rectangular end will work. One time, I even used an old screwdriver with the handle removed. Hope this helps. Bill.
95/5 solder, because I have a bunch of it around. Really, I don't think you need to solder the staples if you get them from Track. They have a foot that is 360 degrees around, whereas my staples are kind of a barb that is only 180 degrees around. I only solder them for my own peace of mind, since they don't have the same anchoring "bearing" that the store-boght staples have. I'll bet once you anchor yours in properly, you could hang yourself from them, without soldering. But, if you really want to solder them just for "that little extra sumpin sumpin", I suggest you tin the feet of the staples first, then dab some flux in the holes. Next peen the holes over the feet, then heat the barrrel at the staples and add just a tad solder. Scrape off any solder that looks unseemly and you're done.
I make my own staples from nails, and only because I like to make the wedges, escutcheons, and staples all together, one fitted to the other and so on, so they all fit together perfectly. I would probably screw it up if I used pre-made staples. :surrender: Bill
I make my own staples from nails, and only because I like to make the wedges, escutcheons, and staples all together, one fitted to the other and so on, so they all fit together perfectly. I would probably screw it up if I used pre-made staples. :surrender: Bill
My first 2 LRs built in 1978 used staples formed from nails and are used w/ wedges or keys. In lieu of a "foot" at each leg, I just filed grooves using a triagular file and staked metal into the groove. Both have seen heavy useage and have never loosened up and they are not soldered. After these 2 LRs I went w/ dovetailed bbl lugs for a slightly neater job.....Fred
Be damn careful about the depth you drill the holes for those staples.
I almost ruined a swamped .54 caliber barrel when I accidentally drilled one of the forward underlug staples hole thru the wall of the barrel.
Lucky for me it was at the muzzle and only about 4 3/4" back.
I ended up cutting off 5 inches from the muzzle and building the gun that is below my signature.
Getting back into the swamped area of the barrel thinned the wall down to the point that I decided to solder the front sight on rather than dovetail it in.
Now, you may be asking, "If the barrel was so thin that he had to solder the sight in place, is it safe to have a staple in that thin area?"
Fair question.
Dovetails have two sharp corners at the bottom of the slot and these produce "stress risers" that could cause a failure if the pressures were high enough.
A small hole drilled perpendicular to the bore doesn't produce nearly as large or as potentially damaging of a stress riser so they are safe to use.
Just be sure to only drill the depth of the leg of the staple, no deeper and your gun will be fine.
I almost ruined a swamped .54 caliber barrel when I accidentally drilled one of the forward underlug staples hole thru the wall of the barrel.
Lucky for me it was at the muzzle and only about 4 3/4" back.
I ended up cutting off 5 inches from the muzzle and building the gun that is below my signature.
Getting back into the swamped area of the barrel thinned the wall down to the point that I decided to solder the front sight on rather than dovetail it in.
Now, you may be asking, "If the barrel was so thin that he had to solder the sight in place, is it safe to have a staple in that thin area?"
Fair question.
Dovetails have two sharp corners at the bottom of the slot and these produce "stress risers" that could cause a failure if the pressures were high enough.
A small hole drilled perpendicular to the bore doesn't produce nearly as large or as potentially damaging of a stress riser so they are safe to use.
Just be sure to only drill the depth of the leg of the staple, no deeper and your gun will be fine.
Because of the possibility of drilling too deep, I use a drill collar and set the stop on the drill press in case the collar loosens up. By the time each setting is made on a swamped bbl for 8 holes and each hole is "flatbottomed", I can easily install {4} .035 deep dovetailed lugs w/o a danger of destroying the bbl. That's the other reason I use dovetailed lugs....but, each to his own devices....Fred
I have worked on this kit from TVM and successfully staked the barrel tenons.
It is not necessary to solder the temnons in place.
It is necessary to reduce the tenon height so the tenons are clear of the barrel
Stake the tenons by using a small-diameter punch to peen metal against the tenon where its stud enters the pre-drilled holes in the barrel flat.
It is not necessary to solder the temnons in place.
It is necessary to reduce the tenon height so the tenons are clear of the barrel
Stake the tenons by using a small-diameter punch to peen metal against the tenon where its stud enters the pre-drilled holes in the barrel flat.
