1848 Colt Baby Dragoon

I have a NIB 2nd Generation 1849 Colt Baby Dragoon without loading lever. I would like to carefully take the gun apart to make sure it is lubed correctly. I can not get the barrel off the gun. With a revolver with a loading lever it is simple. Does anyone have any suggestions for me.

Thank you ahead of time

Terry in Oregon

Pulling hard with leather gloves on didn't work?

Instead of trying to pull straight off, grasp the end of the barrel and wiggle up & down, then left & right alternately.
Don't wiggle too hard as excess pressure may snap the frame dowel pins.
there may be some rust on the arbor inside the barrel assembly. If it doesn't want to pop loose, soak it in Kano Kroil overnight.

CaptainKirk said:

Instead of trying to pull straight off, grasp the end of the barrel and wiggle up & down, then left & right alternately.
Don't wiggle too hard as excess pressure may snap the frame dowel pins.
there may be some rust on the arbor inside the barrel assembly. If it doesn't want to pop loose, soak it in Kano Kroil overnight.

Click to expand...

& if it's still stuck, warm it up with a heat gun or in the oven to 300 degrees or so. That would be just warm enough to sizzle a little with a drop of water but not hot enough to effect the heat treatment of the steel. You could run a cleaning rod down the barrel & against the cylinder & tap it while holding the barrel.

Thank you all for the great ideas. It is getting very late here so I will soak it in Kroil (I love that stuff) overnight and try your suggestions tomorrow. I will let you know how it goes

Thank you

Terry in Oregon

I suggest buying a piece of 3/8 diameter hardwood dowel from the local hardware store and cutting off a piece about 6-7 inches long.

With the gun at half-cock and the cylinder rotated so the area between the nipples is aligned with the capping cutout in the recoil shield place one end of the dowel against the rear of the cylinder.

Holding the dowel in this position use a small mallet to give the dowel a few taps.
That will drive the cylinder forward against the rear of the barrel and should loosen it enough to clear the frames steel dowel pins.
A few twists of the barrel should have it off in a jiffy.

SUCCESS!

I tried Zonies idea after letting Kroils soak in over night. Came apart with ease. Cleaned it up carefully, wiped it down and put it back together. I do not think it has ever been taken apart. My concern was if it dried out to much it might rust. I found no sign of any rust.


I appreciate all of the suggestions that you folks gave to me. Thank you very much!

Terry in Springfield OR

Glad things worked out for you.

Remember, when you reassemble your pistol do not drive the wedge in too far.

It should only be driven in until it makes the lower part of the barrel touch the forward part of the receiver.

When this happens the wedge may be sticking out the right side of the barrel or it may just be even with it. Either way the gun is safe to shoot.

And while it's apart, carefully dress and remove any burrs or flat spots on the arbor slot, wedge and barrel slot. The wedge, when properly fitted should push home with thumb pressure alone. Likewise coming out.

Thanks for the info on the wedge but I am very awaare of that. I will not be dressing the wedge as the revolver is unfired and unturned. Doing anything to it will drop it's value about 30%.

I really do appreciate all of the input and assistance.

Terry