• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Sequence of lock bolts and tang screw(s)

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

mikemeteor

45 Cal.
Joined
Nov 16, 2008
Messages
660
Reaction score
3
I refer to Dixon's "The Art of Building the PA Longrifle" book every now and again, and it suggests installing the tang bolt/screw first, followed by the lock bolts.
Mike B.'s tutorial suggests doing them in the other order.

Anyone have any strong rationale for the preferred sequence for these operations, or doesn't it really matter ?
/mm
 
I put the lock bolts in first simply because I have the lock inletted way before inletting the triggerplate to thread the tang bolt into.

Just make sure the barrel is clamped all the way down in the stock good. Usually, the rear lock bolt will clip or go right through the breechplug. :wink:
 
I like to install the barrel lugs and pins before the tang bolt.. Stops any chance of the barrel coming forward when drilling it for the tang bolt.. Other than that I have never been too concerned when I put the lock bolts in.. although it does help remove the lockplate :haha: :thumbsup:
 
If it is a Preinlet stock........... I inlet the lock at least 75% of the way, so I know for sure where to move the barrel to..
Then inlet the barrel without the breechplug in it, going to reference marks for vent liner/flashpan alignment, etc.
Shape the bend the Tang as I want it, put it back on the barrel & inlet the Tang.
Take the barrel back out & install the Underlugs.
Go back in the barrel inlet & inlet the underlugs into the barrel inlet & & pin the barrel in.
Then finish inletting the lock as I now have the barrel stationary.
Then I drill the lock screw/bolt & get the lock secure.
Then inlet the Trigger as now I know where to put it as the lock is stationary.
Then I do the Tang/Triggerplate screw/bolt....

Right ? Wrong ? :idunno: It works for me.

Keith Lisle
 
I agree with BirdDog- while i don't think it's that big a deal, his method seems to make the most sense in the logical sequence of 'what drives the train,' and once the barrel is firmly installed, the lock, and then the trigger, should go in without any problem of spacing or placement.
 
Back
Top