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Mr History said:
I've tried it about 3 or 4 times and had the same results each time. Been using Barricade for years and have never had a problem. I've talked to others who have the same experience.

Ditto. I've used Sheath for a long time and it evolved into Barricade. Now I use that. Never tried Ballistol. Probably never will.

There are many paths that lead to any point.
 
My squaw never uses anything but coconut oil and olive oil because pig lard is unclean.
What's all the arguing about?
 
My gun barrel is modern steel so I use a modern gun oil, I only use a small amount of Alcho. on a patch if any, usually I just wipe a couple of dry patches down the bore and a pipe cleaner thru the vent and I have had no problems, it does not take a lot of oil to protect the bore I suspect often way to much is used, this would likley be the case if the bore needs flushed with alcho. or something else to cut the oil, often less is better with patch lubes and rust protection.
 
The Balistol website says that Balistol was created in 1874 by a fellow named Klevor. He made it from coal and in fact bought a coal mine to insure a steady supply. Wouldn't this make it a petroleum product? If the rumor that it is simply mineral oil is true then it is petroleum based. Sort of shoots the whole arguement about Bolistol vs. petroleum based gun oil down.

You can look all of this up on balistol.com website and Wickipedia.

My personal experience: I will never trust Sheath or Baricade to protect my gun(s) ever again after a bad rust invasion once. That's just me. :surrender:
 
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I researched it before using it on BP guns. I did use it on CF guns starting quite awhile ago. (15 years)

This is the way I understand it. Someone can correct me if i'm wrong.

It is based on mineral oil. It's not the only ingredient as some seem to think, but anyway. There are different mineral oils. Some are refined more than others. Just like diesel, gasoline, and aviation fuel all come from crude oil.

The mineral oil used in Ballistol has been refined to the point that it doesn't react to BP like regular petroleum oils. I think the fact that it doesn't build up the tar like substance like petroleum oils shows that.

Anyway, that's my take.
 
I have never had the need for ballistol myself and know nothing about it,as regular gun oil works fine for me, I have not had a case of rust in 40+ years I do not know if the PC/HC part of petro oils matters much as the gun likley has the wrong barrel, a vent liner and much of the other gear is usually off so the type of oil seems pretty insignificant.It amuses me at times when someone is so concerned about some small item being correct when the whole gun is not even close :idunno:
 
If it ain't broke, don't fix it! :thumbsup:

Barricade for me, then store the gun upside-down on the muzzle....the gun takes what it needs and any extra runs out onto a paper towel on my kitchen floor. My percussion guns love Barricade and I shoot in the pouring rain with no rust!

The trick is making sure that you start with a dry, warm flash channel no matter what you use (I put this here for the OP & the Newbies, not you!).

Dave
 
Living in Florida where the lowest humidity in the heat of the day is 50%, rust is a big concern. I have used gun oil for thirty years in the midwest and here and have no rust problems. I don't over-oil and I wipe the barrel with a dry patch before I shoot, and I've had no fouling issues.

So in my own experience:
1-Oil has protected all my guns
2-No fouling problems

I don't experiment with other substances because I don't see how any of them can improve on that.
 
It is interesting how many store the gun upside down, I have stored them sideways or muzzle up and never had any gob of goop in the breech/vent at least nothing a patch or two did not remove, if I had stuff collecting on the down side I would think I had to much in there?
 
I shoot mostly percussion with a patent breech, which gives the oil a good place to go where a patch can't reach it. A plugged tube with a hole in the side doesn't give the oil anyplace to hide. :wink: :grin: Chris
 
I've never ha a problem either, and I store mine whichever way works best at the time. I do put a patch on the nipple and drop the hammer, just to be safe.

Dan
 
Chris,

I'm with you!

I help run the firing line at two different clubs. Seems the ONLY folks that have problems with percussion rifles are the ones that either don't clean them right, or the folks who sorta clean 'em, then heavy oil them so they don't rust, and then store them muzzle-up so that all of that extra oil drains into the flash channel! So are we crazy :idunno: ?

My guns always go BANG so I must be doing something right :idunno: .

Dave
 
". Seems the ONLY folks that have problems with percussion rifles are the ones that either don't clean them right, or the folks who sorta clean 'em, then heavy oil them so they don't rust, and then store them muzzle-up so that all of that extra oil drains into the flash channel! So are we crazy "

I think we pretty much said the same, thing I have had LGP and many other caplocks and never had and problem with to much goop in the bottom, I believe because did not put to much in in the first place.I am not qualified to answer the last question. :idunno:
 
:thumbsup: Good for me!

Glad your not qualified on the crazy thing, as some would say "it takes one to know one" :haha: :rotf: .

Have a good day!

Dave
 
A fine gun deserves the best preservative oils. I use the same ones recommended for modern guns. Of these Barricade works best for me as a rust preventative and bore protect-ant. Other fine petro oils lubricate the locks and moving parts.
 
I plan on trying as many lubes as I can, depending on local availability and taking into consideration effects on bore condition, how hard to use, and effects on accuracy.

Dan,

While you do your tests for range accuracy, please try 20W50 motor oil for preserving which should be cleaned out with alcohol before shooting. Also a very light spray of water for patch lube. Just enough water to ease the passage of the patch as the ball goes down the bore.
I have tried many combinations, but use either this method or Dutch's "Dry patch method" for match situations.

YMHS,
CrackStock
 
CrackStock said:
... please try 20W50 motor oil for preserving which should be cleaned out with alcohol before shooting. Also a very light spray of water for patch lube. Just enough water to ease the passage of the patch as the ball goes down the bore.
I have tried many combinations, but use either this method or Dutch's "Dry patch method" for match situations.

I'll keep the motor oil in mind, but I use my regular gun oil when I put the rifle away. Actually, right now I'm using Beeman's (an airgun oil) and it works pretty good.

I've done the water spray as a patch lube, and it works well also- if you have a spray bottle with you. It's a good method on the range.

Recently I got Dutch's system, and have corresponded by e-mail with him. He was very helpful. So I am now working on a dry patch system.

Thanx.
Dan
 
CrackStock said:
I plan on trying as many lubes as I can, depending on local availability and taking into consideration effects on bore condition, how hard to use, and effects on accuracy.

Dan,

While you do your tests for range accuracy, please try 20W50 motor oil for preserving which should be cleaned out with alcohol before shooting. Also a very light spray of water for patch lube. Just enough water to ease the passage of the patch as the ball goes down the bore.
I have tried many combinations, but use either this method or Dutch's "Dry patch method" for match situations.

YMHS,
CrackStock

I'll post this one more time. Motor oil doesn't do well at all.
http://www.ctmuzzleloaders.com/ctml_experiments/corrosion/corrosion2.html
 
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