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Did a little turkey patterning.......

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Skychief

69 Cal.
Joined
Dec 16, 2006
Messages
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Location
The hills of Southern Indiana
Though I have a load that I am faithful with out to 20 yards, I did a little experimenting today. That's how we are don't you know....tinkerers! :haha:

When I say I did a little, it was due to the fact that I discovered I only had ~20 over the powder cards.

Anyhow, I tried some loads with 7 1/2's for the first time today. I have used #6 shot previously. The 7 1/2's did not seem to shoot a lot more densely than 6's out of my gun when other load variables remained the same. This came as a bit of a surprise. I was hoping they would really get packed in there on a turkey neck.

I tried some ticking strips and round patches as read about here.

The strips showed a good bit of promise. The problem I found with them was that they actually shot to the side of my point of aim! :hmm: In fact, at 20 yards, the dense patterns would cover only 1/2 of the 8 1/2" X 11" sheets of paper used for targets. By the way, I found one strip at the target. :idunno:

On to the ticking "patches"....
My first attempt was made with an oversized patch to make sure my entire shotload would be enveloped by it. I then cut off the excess at the muzzle and seated it with an overshot card above it. The top of the shotload was right at the muzzle in other words. Results were a spectacular slug through the 20 yard target! :rotf:

The I tried a smaller diameter patch that enveloped ~2/3 of the shot charge. This threw a good turkey pattern and I followed up with an identical loading and the result repeated itself. These were on par with my regular turkey load as far as density goes.

I wrote good notes on each sheet regarding the load used and have compared them to my normal turkey loading (targets from the past). My findings have me itching to try a smallish shot patch/cup with some #6 shot. I think that could throw a better denser pattern than my usual turkey load (80 gr 2f, hard card, 80 volumetric grains of cornmeal, 120 gr VOLUME of #6's topped with an overshot card. Lubed barrel with mink oil.).

Questions for my fellow tinkerers:
-Have any of you that have used the ticking strips found them to shoot left or right (or for that matter...above or below) your point of aim?

-Have any of you tried ticking patches that do NOT envelop the entire shot charge? If so, how did you make out compared to a larger patch? That slug I shot gave me the "willies" as the last thing I need with a nice gobbler within range is a lack of confidence in my load! :shocked2:

I wish I had more hard cards today as I would have made more good smoke and maybe answered more questions than I created.

Hope to hear back from you guys! :thumbsup:

Skychief. :hatsoff:


PS, I should add that my turkey gun is a T/C New Englander with 12 gauge unchoked 28" barrel.
 
...Nice report... Thanks... I also have been interested in the ticking shotcup and made a few flared copper funnels to experiment with for my T/C shotgun... I certainly would like to hear from others as well... I haven't been on the range for 5 months... too busy...
 
I think you're on some real fruitful ground here. I haven't tried partial cups, but you've got me itching to do it too. Since I'm 5k miles from home for another month, I'll have to rely on your reports. Keep them coming!
 
Howdy Bob and BrownBear!

I should have stated that I used two strips per loading (crossed to form an "+". I have been searching past posts here and see that Mr. Krewson (if I recall correctly)is using a singular strip. I have not tried that, but, intend to.

So, you all please bear in mind that I was using crossed strips when my shots arrived wide of their intended marks!

By the way BrownBear, if you don't mind saying....where on Earth are you??? :idunno:

Best regards, Skychief.
 
Skychief said:
Results were a spectacular slug through the 20 yard target

Several years ago I made several range trips experimenting with various paper shot cups that a settler might have made for himself...(though I doubt they did)...and while there was some tightening of the pattern, I was never quite able to completely, 100% reliably stop getting the occasional 'slug'.

I decided that was too risky as hard as it was to get a good Tom in range / in my sights...and when I coupled that decision with the amount of money I was spending with all the range trips and load testing, I just decided to have the .62cal barrel Jug Choked and never looked back...and not being a purist, using a jug choked barrel doesn't bother me in the least.

I am leaving my new .28ga barrel at cylinder bore in hopes that the longer 42" barrel will be a bit of an improvement over the 32" GM barrels I'd used in the past...we'll see
 
Skychief said:
By the way BrownBear, if you don't mind saying....where on Earth are you??? :idunno:

I'm down on the Mexican border. Might be closer to 4k than 5, but it's still a long way from Alaska by truck! :grin:
 
I used crossed strips and round and square patches on my 20ga flinter,my SXS navy arms 12,and TC 12ga new englander,they worked well for "treebacon" but the turkey patterens were lacking,I too got the densest part of my patterns to the Left of POI,then I made up shot cartridges with newspaper like Ohio Ramrod suggested except just before they slipped beyond the muzzle I tore or slit the paper,used 2 over card wads and have the best patterns yet,I'll not say how much shot and powder used for each 'cause it would start a riot!!!! needless to say they are not standard for gauge loadings :shocked2: ....good patterns of #5 hard shot and good penetration on old soup cans @25 yds,BTW all the firearms are unchoked/cyl bore guns
 
majg1234 said:
"...I'll not say how much shot and powder used for each 'cause it would start a riot..."

No problem here...I think a lot of folks try to directly correlate a BP ML load to the limited capacity of a modern 2&3/4" shotgun shell.
The old saying something like load powder, more lead, shoots far, kills dead seems to have merit and I always use a ratio of more shot than powder.

For example, my .20ga turkey load is one I adopted from George, which uses 80grns Goex 3F and 1+5/8oz #6s...penetrates a tuna can all the way out to 40 yards so there is plenty of energy.
Just have to determine the max range based on the pattern from the particular choke one might be using.

If you're good to 25yds with #5s, you could probably pick up another 3-5 yards using hard magnum #6s as the pattern should still be pretty well filled in past 25 yards. (I'm assuming you're after head/neck shots)
 
...roundball got me thinking... i've always used a 75 gr. measure for 3F powder and then poured 7 1/2 shot into the same powder measure for my shot volume... would it be Ok to use an 80 or 85 gr. powder measure for my shot??... I've always been curious about increasing the shot a little... sure would apreciate some advice... Thanks all...
...i forgot to mention i'm using a T/C .56 cal smoothie, no choke...
 
My guns do pattern a little better with a little more shot than powder. The main thing is to pattern it. You may love what you see. It could also be the other way as well. But like everything, go to the range and know what it does as every gun has it's own little rules.
 
bob4st said:
...roundball got me thinking... i've always used a 75 gr. measure for 3F powder and then poured 7 1/2 shot into the same powder measure for my shot volume... would it be Ok to use an 80 or 85 gr. powder measure for my shot??... I've always been curious about increasing the shot a little... sure would apreciate some advice... Thanks all...
...i forgot to mention i'm using a T/C .56 cal smoothie, no choke...

I don't tell anybody what THEY should use...but I'll tell you what I would use in that strong 1" barrel:

70grn measure of Goex 3F
Two Oxyoke .58cal wool wads
100grn measure of hard magnum #6s (1+3/8oz)
Two .28ga Over Shot cards

22 yards max distance for head/neck shot
POA is middle of the neck
 
roundball said:
22 yards max distance for head/neck shot
I keep feeling we are missing something, Roundball. :wink: I just read a book published in Portugal in 1718 called Espingarda Perfeyta, The Perfect Gun. It has a world of fascinating info about making and shooting guns at that time, and in describing "shot guns" they have this to say:

Good adjustment of the barrel consists of firing far with the hail-shot close together and this length, that gives it esteem, until now the ultimate point to which art can cause a shot to go with undispersed ammunition, is fifty paces, a well considered barrel being one which can fire the lead to this distance, for only to that point can the charge impel it with legitimate exactness.

Anybody know where I can buy a good Portuguese gun? :grin:

Spence
 
:grin:
Lord they talked funny back then.....or.....he was past due putting the cork back in the bottle
 
roundball said:
:grin:
Lord they talked funny back then.....or.....he was past due putting the cork back in the bottle
Oh, that little bit I quoted was one of the few that you can feel reasonably confident you understand. What with the excessively flowery speech commonly used at that time and then being translated into English, it's an.... interesting read. But, it has some fascinating historical info, all about bore profiles, leather-patched round balls in spiral-rifled barrels, balls pounded into straight-rifled barrels with a mallet, screw-barrel guns.... all in the first few years of the 18th century. Don't get me started.

But, such claims made by the old boys do make you think, don't they?

Spence
 
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