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Navy Arms 12 Gauge Questions

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Britsmoothy said:
Is it like this one?

mlpigeon.jpg


Four over shot cards is all you need friend and one on the shot of course :thumbsup:

I remove the nipple and throw it in the bucket to soak.
I was fortunate to be able to make my own cleaning rod but bought a good brass long jag in 12g. With good thick old cotton sheet patches everthing is good.

I can't wait for the photo's :thumbsup:

Brits.

Nice looking gun. Is that a band tailed pigeon..
Twice.
 
I always like to have a spair or two in case I lose one. And on a used gun you never know when a nipple has been dry-fired on that doesn't consistently go off.
 
luie b said:
I always like to have a spair or two in case I lose one. And on a used gun you never know when a nipple has been dry-fired on that doesn't consistently go off.

Lui is rite, the Pedersoli in my picture would not shoot reliably unless the nipple's were in the corret barrel, I had to file mark one of them for ID. It had been dry fired etc. It had me scratching my head for a while too :haha:

The bird is a European wood pigeon.

Brits.
 
luie b said:
I always like to have a spair or two in case I lose one. And on a used gun you never know when a nipple has been dry-fired on that doesn't consistently go off.


Very unlikely the gun has been dry fired to a point where the nipples are ruined.. Too nice looking of a gun and besides the previous owner would have replaced them before the sale.
Now , had you bought a 150 year original ,I’d say change the nipples.. And if you get misfires chances are good it wont be the nipples. Beside you should carry a nipple prick.
The nipples on my Original Manton have been on the gun the last ten years I’ve owned it and only come off for cleaning when it’s time to put it away”¦ The less you take off and put on the better it will be on the on the guns threads and the nipples.
The only thing I carry in my shooting bag as far as gun tools is a small screw driver that fits my lock screws head and an old Nipple wrench with a nipple prick in its hollow handle.

On the other hand ,I do understand having to wait for the gun to arrive. :>)

Twice..
 
The bird is a European wood pigeon.

Brits.[/quote]

It has the appearance of our band tailed pigeons, migratory wood dwellers .That's why I asked.
Thanks.
Twice.
 
Any muzzleloader at an auction has ruined nipples because the edges are flat. Every gun I see at a store has a bad nipple that has been dry fired. You know why, because somebody walks up looking at this "old gun" and dry fires it because they don't know any better because they generally have no idea on how it works. An original owner isn't necessarily going to replace them either because they might have never shot it.
 
You could be right lui. All the years I've been going to Friendship and handling dealers guns for sale I have yet to see one with flattened nipples, unless the gun was being sold as a parts gun. Lets hope yours comes to you with brand new ones..
Twice.
 
if they are not totally ruined you can dress them up with a diamond fingernail file and emory cloth,keep a diamond finger nail file in my tool box for guns,it can be used to touch up all manor of gun related boo boos'and it doesn't leave any file marks.... the file was cheap (wife hasn't noted it missing :rotf: ) and it works really great
 
I have your shotgun ready to send. I can asure you that the nipples on this gun are in perfect shape. They have not had the hammer droped on them. When you get it you can take it out load it and shoot it without making any changes. I have read your thread and I cannot help you with developing a turkey load as it has not been used for turdey hunting. Just used for some trap and skeet and not much of that. You have a very good shotgun that is in very good condition.
 
I'm sure you got all the info you need but something you may find out when your patterning is your point of impact may not be where your aiming. I found that out when I was working a load up for my Dixie double 10 gage. Had 1 barrel go pretty much where I was aiming and the other shot a little high and to the left, just wish I could remember which. I'm using 90 grain of 2F and 2oz. #6's.and just overshot cards down both barrels... Kicks the holy manure out of me with the dang steel butt plate. :(
 
Luie,
When I bought my Pedersoli last year, Britsmoothy suggested I punch the factory nipples out to .040 (1mm). She touches off without fail.
 
For clay target practice, reduce the shot load to 1 1/4-1 1/2 oz of shot, and reduce that powder charge to 3 drams( 83 grains) 2Fg powder. It should be more pleasant to shoot, and you will break more targets.

The benefit of shooting the larger gauge guns is the flexibility you have in the loads you use: You can load 12 gauge loads all day long in any 10 gauge, get better patterns, and less recoil! You can load 16 or 20 gauge loads for hunting small game, like squirrels and rabbits. Then, if and when you just have to prove your manhood, you can stuff that sucker up with all that powder and shot and have at it. A friend of mine built his own 8 gauge percussion smoothbore, and was shooting 6 drams( 165 grains) of 2Fg, and 4 oz. of shot when he handed his loaded gun to me to shoot at a clay target. I "smoked" the target at the close range we were shooting, and the recoil was HELLO noticeable. I have since tried to get him to reduce his loads down to 12 gauge levels, but the lowest he will shoot is 4 drams( 110 grains) of 2Fg powder, behind 3 oz. of shot.

Even using my Isometric technique for Controlling Heavy Recoil( see article on that subject on this forum), which I taught him, you should see the movement of his body every time he fires that gun! :shocked2: :idunno: :surrender: :hmm: :hatsoff: :hatsoff:

You don't get that flexibility shooting modern 10 gauge cartridge shotguns, BTW. :hatsoff:
 
I had to replace the nipples on my brand new Pedersoli 12 ga because they (the factory ones) only worked 2/3rd of the time. :(
The replacements fire every time. They are really nice shotguns but I love double barreled shotguns and my gun safe proves it! :)
You really need to pattern it because it won't shoot like a suppository shotgun does. Not at all. I used mine for pheasants for the first time this year and, like you, am still learning how to use it. (BTW, just one pheasant.) Walking through high, very high, CPR grass knocked several caps off and not at the most opportune time either, I might add.
 
Luie,

Just My point of view but I have been shooting a Pedersoli for about 10 years with the same nipples it came with. Never had a problem with the nipples. I always remove and clean them as part of my cleaning routine.

Wayne/Al
 
luie b said:
So what'd you do to cure the problem?

My last Pedersoli did shoot off too on both barrels.

To cure it I filed the muzzles.

Hey, Paul,,,, have you got that wonderfull description on how to file muzzles saved? :hatsoff:

Brits
 
Britsmoothy said:
luie b said:
So what'd you do to cure the problem?

My last Pedersoli did shoot off too on both barrels.

To cure it I filed the muzzles.

Hey, Paul,,,, have you got that wonderfull description on how to file muzzles saved? :hatsoff:

Brits
I'd be interested in reading that myself.
Twice
 
unfortunately, I don't save those tomes( or fortunately??) :grin:

But, here it is in a nutshell.

First, I am all in favor of bending barrels to correct larger errors in POINT OF IMPACT(POI).

Filing the muzzle is to make the changes:
a. If you can't bend the barrel for some reason( as in DBL shotguns- where you are concerned with breaking the solder between the barrels, or where one barrel is more off- or off in a different direction than the other); and
b. For small deviations for the POI from the POA.

For my purpose, I am treating this subject as if we are using a DB shotgun, so that the bead is held at the 12 o'clock( clock dial) position to the target.

Now, lets assume the LEFT barrel( Your left as you look down the barrels from the butt stock) is shooting LEFT- to 9 o'clock, and the center of the pattern is 12+ inches off from the POA.

You want to move that shot so that it more closely impacts the center of the pattern at the POA.

WHAT TO DO:

FILE THE LEFT BARREL MUZZLE AT 9 o'CLOCK. It sounds counter intuitive, until you think about what is going to push that shot one way or another. Its the Gases pushing the shot, and wads or cards behind the gas out of the muzzle that will move the shot in one direction or another. By filing the muzzle at 9 O'clock, GAS will Escape out the muzzle at 9 o'clock FIRST, and push the wad and shot towards 3 o'clock, moving it in that direction to get closer to the POA. The more you file the muzzle, the more the load of shot will move in the OPPOSITE direction.

Some DBL shotguns are constructed so that their patterns actually cross( we see this also in Dbl. rifles).

IN those cases, sometimes it simply makes more sense to break or cut the solder between the barrels and use wedges near the muzzle to push the barrels away from each other. When you have the barrels shooting patterns to a similar POA, THEN re-solder the barrels and ribs.

However, I have seen many OLD barrels on DBL shotguns that have been filed in the middle of the two barrels, so that the shot patterns move away from crossing over each other, and shoot to a similar POA. The muzzles of those barrels have a half-moon, or "half-round" profile , under that front sight. Some old guns that were big, 10 gauge duck and geese guns- way too heavy to use on upland game--- had extremely pronounced filing marks on that work- leaving no doubt how the arc was made.

Lets assume your left barrel is shooting to 9 O'clock, as above, but the Right barrel is shooting Low Right- at 4:30 O'clock. You would file the left barrel's muzzle to move the pattern to the right, as described above. Then, on the right barrel, you would file the muzzle at 4:30 O'clock to move the pattern UP and LEFT to your POA.

Any smoothbore has a much better chance of shooting its load of shot to the POA if that muzzle is Squared to the bore. Most owners of shotguns never even check. For that matter, most never patterned their loads on paper.

I am not expecting people to count pellets- altho that's the only way to really know what is happening with your gun. Why Not? Well, after you have patterned loads and counted pellets, until you think you are going cross-eyed, you begin to know what a good pattern looks like, and even can tell fairly accurately if a pattern is Cylinder bore, Modified, or full for a particular load at a given range. The Bad patterns stick out so easily, that there is No reason to count pellets.

By process of eliminating the obviously bad patterns, you can reach the correct load that gives you a great pattern. That is the one to take the time to count pellets. Then try patterning that same load at different distances from the muzzle so you learn how it performs at those distances.

What is a great pattern? You want your shot pellets to be fairly evenly distributed through out a 20-30 inch circle in the center of the pattern. Hopefully, you won't have "tails" flying off one side of the pattern or another.

If there is going to be an area of denser pellets, let it be in the 10-15 inch inner circle of the pattern. When you hit flying birds with such a pattern, you are rewarded with lots of feathers leaving the bird, and an immediate reaction to the load of shot, when you center the bird. If you hit that bird with one edge of the pattern or another, you will be able to see the bird react in the opposite direction.

The same kind of reaction occurs when shooting Clay targets, and that is the reason we spend so much time practicing with our guns shooting clay targets throw from a mechanical trap, or hand thrower. :hmm: :surrender: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 
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