Davis Deerslayer Trigger - Too Small?

I just received a Davis Deerslayer trigger group for my Lyman GPR. Upon looking it over, I was surprised to see how small the set (rear) trigger was. The curvature of the trigger is such that even a lightly gloved finger would not fit into it - and my fingers are only of 'medium' width - not large in diameter by any means. The way it is now, my finger also hits against the set screw to a degree that is rather annoying.

Is this normal for a Deerslayer trigger? Can the trigger be bent to open the curvature a bit so a finger can rest comfortably there instead of being squeezed in?

Thanks for your input.

What you say is true, but I wouldn't use the set trigger wearing a glove. The front trigger is way too light to use with a glove.

I sort of like the curve of the set trigger. It needs to be quite different from the front trigger so you don't accidently pull the front trigger and fire the gun.

It is smaller than the Lyman set trigger but I don't use gloves when shooting so it doesn't bother me.

I've used them with polypro glove liners and had no problems in spite of fat fingers. But I wear the glove liners inside heavier gloves, and I shed those any time I'm using the set trigger.

There are two bonus points for me in the Davis setup. The rear trigger is really distinct from the straight front trigger, so I have no trouble with getting them confused in the heat of the moment like I do with Lyman (or TC for that matter).

And the second point is a biggy for me: Without setting the rear trigger, the front trigger is so good that I almost never bother to set the rear unless I'm shooting from a rest.

Good observation about the smaller size and deep curve in the new trigger, but it hasn't been a problem for me.

You got lucky. My front trigger unset is a 5 lb pull. Way too heavy for me.

Capper and Brown Bear, I see your point about not wearing gloves while using a set trigger. That sounds like wise advice.

I look forward to playing with the adjustment on the trigger to get the kind of crisp release I like. Right now there is a lot of creep, but then again it did just come out of the package..

You have creep with the front trigger when it's set?

It should just be a slight touch. Mine releases at 11 oz.

How did you set the screw?

I haven't fiddled with the adjustment screw yet, but I will later tonight or tomorrow. I feel pretty confident, based on how well regarded these triggers are, that I will be as happy with it as so many others on this forum are.

You probably know how to adjust a set trigger, but maybe some others don't. Here's the basic setting.

Set the rear trigger. Turn the screw clockwise slowly until the front trigger fires. Then turn the screw counter clockwise one full turn. Never set the screw less than one full turn counter clockwise after it fires.

That's the basic setting, but I usually go a bit more counter clockwise to make the rear trigger easier to set.

Thanks for those instructions, Capper!

There is still about 1/32th inch of creep to the front trigger before it engages, then it is a crisp release. This creep only happens when I have the hammer pulled back, which I reckon must mean that there is a tiny gap between the release trigger tripper thingy and the hammer release bar doodad that comes out of the lock. Is it obvious at all that I don't know the formal name of the parts?

That's not right. I have zero creep on mine.

I'd contact Davis to see what they say.

Mattole: If your 1/32" "creep" before it engages is talking about the front trigger release without the rear trigger being set your front trigger is EXACTLY CORRECT. It couldn't be better and still be safe.

If the rear 'set' trigger IS set then your front trigger should not have a 'easy' and 'hard' to pull feel. It should require the same pressure at all times and it should move about 1/32" before the rear trigger snaps to release the lock.

If your interested the "the hammer release bar doodad" is the "sear arm". It is a part of the sear. The Sear is the part that clicks into the half cock notch or the full cock notch on the tumbler.

If you remember those names you can pat yourself on the back and say, "I just got smarter!

Thanks Zonie, I am happy to be smarter this morning than I was last night!

Yes unfortunately the front trigger does have that creep when the rear trigger is set. It made me wonder if the sear arm is offset slightly so that the release trigger tripper thingy (still don't know the name of that yet) cannot engage it properly.

I think what's happening is Davis is sending out their triggers with just a little tension on the rear leaf spring expecting guy's to adjust to their own needs and folks don't know how.
Another thing that affects the trigger is the lock it'self needs to have proper lubrication.
Take the lock out and put a few drops of oil on the mechinisims in there.
I ain't a good explainer, heres some pic's maybe someone else can add to it;



That leaf spring needs to have enough tention to drive the cam into the sear arm, when it's tightened it makes the rear trigger harder too set, Big deal, you want it to snap with considerable force,, it's what make the "set trigger" work.
All this talk of trigger pull weight is mute with a set trigger, the screw dosen't adjust pull weight, it shortens the travel of the front before it breaks off the notch in the rear cam.
Take the trigger out and play with it in your hands, look at the contact point of the rear cam and front trigger cam, (?) :idunno:

The finger fit is not a big deal, at least to me, I had to bend the set trigger to make it fit the trigger guard on one of my rifles, and I kinda have to turn my finger sideways to get it in there. :idunno:

necchi said:

All this talk of trigger pull weight is mute with a set trigger, the screw dosen't adjust pull weight,

Click to expand...

Nobody in this thread said it did.

Thank you for your insightfull addition.

There are several recent topics of the Deer Slayer trigger, many of them use the term Pull Weight to describe the setting of the trigger break point screw.
I simply point out the screw doesn't adjust "pull weight", it adjusts a minute' travel of contact between the two triggers.

The weight should/could be measured at the rear trigger too reflect the amount of energy transmited by the rear cam and flat spring too the trigger sear. It's an important adjustment many seem to miss when their focus is the misrepresented front trigger "pull weight".

The front trigger does have a pull weight. One with the rear trigger set, and one without it set.

Nobody said it was adjustable with the set screw.

Yes Peter, and Thank you.

Fireflys have candle power, it can be measured and compared to a lightbulb.
But that's not why he's flashing, :wink:

Necchi, I just checked this thread after not doing so for a few days. Thanks very much for your excellent contribution!

Something else I am curious about is how to achieve what Brown Bear can with his Deerslayer trigger, namely the ability to use the front trigger, when the need arises, without having to set the rear trigger. Apparently his front trigger is fairly sweet just by itself. My front trigger is a bear to pull before the hammer falls, without setting the rear trigger first. Any ideas?