• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Traditions Kentucky Rifle Cleaning Question

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Vtsmoker

45 Cal.
Joined
Jul 25, 2010
Messages
537
Reaction score
1
Do I have to remove the barrel every time I clean the rifle? I'm affraid if i remove and install the tennon pins too many times they will become loose. Not to mention marring up my stock. How can I clean my rifle without removing the barrel and still do a good job?
 
It's a bad idea to let water to run down between the barrel and the stock so most folks who clean their pinned longrifles turn them upside down, with the stock above the barrel on a table, usually with the butt elevated a bit.

Elevating the butt helps prevent the water from running back into the tang area which is about the same height as the top of the barrel.
 
That flush nipple looks like the best thing since the invention of black powder! Thanks for the tip.
 
On my traditions kentucky I used to never remove the barrel but water would leak into the wood which warped it so now I remove it every time. But I still use the flush tube.
 
Two other things that I do.
First is to take the barrel out and coat the barrel channel, tang area, and underneath all of the lock area, with a very thin layer of boat deck vanish. I cut the vanish with the solvent, thinners/water, that is required to make it super thin so that it sinks into the wood and doesn't lay on top. Usually about 50/50.
The second is to rub candle/bees wax on all the metal, barrel/lock, parts that touch. This will help stop rusting on those vital parts and seal off the wood.
 
I agree with bitehard except that I prefer to use an automotive wax that has a high carnuba wax content. Carnuba is a very hard durable wax while bees wax is soft and less durable. Another choice, and one that I use is Renaissance Wax. It is a wax used by museums on their displays to protect them. It is an excellent wax but is a bit pricy. You can find it on line at several of the muzzleloading stores and places that sell gunsmithing supplies. Even some fine furniture stores will carry it.

Like bitehard said, varnish all exposed wood in the barrel channel and ram rod channel if you can get to it and then wax it thoroughly. Wax the bottom of your barrel, too so that it has some rust protection.
 
I got rid of that prob by getting rid of the pins
and i drilled out the slots to fit brass bolts, so
now i take the rifle apart every time i shoot so i know she gets a good cleaning. :thumbsup:
 

Latest posts

Back
Top