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I am a few years into traditional ML (with percussion rifles). I have decided hunt only with BP this year (so I need Fowler). My aim is to hunt squirrel, rabbits, upland birds and Turkeys with it. Please advise on what you have picked and why (style, ignition system, gauge, and barrel length)?
 
This may not be what you are looking for. A few years after I made my yeager rifle using a Getz barrel, I ordered a 20 gauge smoothbore barrel from Getz using the same outside dimensions. I find that I really like the yeager stock dimensions for shooting claybirds and clay rabbits. This may not be your cup of tea.
On the other hand I am getting tired of switching barrels after a long day of rifle shooting to shoot clays in the evening. So I am thinking of making either an English style or American style fouler. I have a full size line drawings from Housten Harrison of a Revelution era fouler with some nice carving I would like to do.
Well, have fun in your search.
volatpluvia
 
Contact Bobby Christian or one of the other builders from here on the forum and they can build you just what you need. I had Bobby build me a real nice Carolina type smoothbore in .20 ga/ .62 cal. with a 36" barrel. I would have gone with a 42" barrel, but 36" is as long as i can get in my gun safe. He does a good job at a fair price. Go with a flinter, and you won't ever want to shoot them capguns again. :grin:
 
Flint. English fowler. 16 through 10 bore. At least a 42" barrel. I'd consider some jug choke too.
 
My favorite gun is a 20 gauge flint fowler with a 44 inch octagon to round barrel. English architecture with figured VA walnut stock.
The 20 will do well (see plenty of posts in hunting section) on small game & up to turkey. With a prb, it will also do for deer. As close to an "all round gun" as you are likely to get IMHO.
 
Mike Brooks said:
Flint. English fowler. 16 through 10 bore. At least a 42" barrel. I'd consider some jug choke too.

I second this emotion. I have a 10 bore on the way with a 48" barrel and if it doesn't pattern to my liking, I'll get it jug choked. I'm using my old 20 gauge right now, and it's a good gun, but it would be better if it were a 16 gauge or bigger.
 
16-12 bore English flintlock fowling piece. Go with a Chambers lock. Barrel length from 38-46".
Get it to fit you.

Don't be in a hurry to buy for this year or you could end up with junk and at the very least a gun that does not fit you. Study up and be prepared to wait a year or two for something decent.

Mike Brooks has the English fowler down pat. Roy Stroh makes a beautiful fowler with nice wire work also.
Here is a pic of my sons's that Mike finished in the spring. It has a 42" barrel, Chambers round face lock and is stocked in English walnut.
jr1a.jpg
 
The main thing is that the gun has to fit YOU. Anything from 10 ga to 28 ga, flint or percussion will work, but it must fit if you are to do good work with it. With a rifle you can move your head around on the stock to find the perfect position for sight alignment so exact fit is not so critical but with a smoothbore you want to just throw the gun up to your cheek, focus on target and fire, fit is all important.
 
Thing that I look for besides fit is weight. I don't care for heavy guns. Typically I like something around 6 to 7 lbs. Now you may think that light weight increases recoil... it will some, but a proper designed gun should knock the snot out of you... :v
 
Agreed! I should have mentioned that "fit" is not just about stock dimensions but also weight and balance. However, I'm not sure it is improtant to have the snot knocked out of me, there are so many good over the counter drugs for that. :grin:
 
:rotf: oops :redface: meant to add a "not" there... as "should not" :haha: :rotf:

So much for that :haha: :grin:
 
I had put some information on stock fit in my first post but deleted it to cut confusion.
Fit is critical but very few gunmakers, both muzzleloader and modern dont really know that much about fitting a gun that is intended for moving targets because fitting is a specialty in itself.

Although length of pull is probably the most insignificant measurement in and of itself, all other measurements are built around the chosen LOP. Correct comb drop is essential to get the cheekbone firmly on the stock. Most are made too low for the majority of people. Mike Brooks did a great job on my son's gun to get the needed high comb and long LOP and still keep the flavor and lines of an English fowling gun.

If you go to Mike's website and look at the measurements he gives on the brass locked fowler he just recently sold in the for sale section, those are pretty good dimensions for most people. A leather pad could be added later but very few will need to take that comb much lower. Mike offers this gun in a kit stock and can make it out of the kit as well.
 
So does Roy Stroh. One day I want to be able to get a wire worked English Fowler in English walnut from Mr. Stroh.
 
Ah shucks guys..... :redface: But, you do realize there are some people on this forum that use my picture for dart board practice, right? :haha:
 
I have a sweet, light 20 ga. English fowler (walnut stock, Getz 46" bbl) that I bought from Capt. Jas. a few years back (thank you, sir!). It's built from a Jim Chambers kit, and these are highly recommended by pretty much everybody.
I love my 20 ga, but my idea of the best all-round smoothbore has a bigger bore, like the Chambers New England Fowler/Militia Musket - the second gun down on this page: http://www.flintlocks.com/rifles04.htm

Too bad the LOP on it is a tad long for me... :(
 
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