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Attaching A Under Rib

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DBox

40 Cal.
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I'm getting ready to start halfstocking my CVA Kentuckey and was wondering about the best way to attatch the under rib.
 
On the "Hawkens" I've built, small screws were used but some soft solder them on and others use rivets......Fred
 
My Lyman GPR slow twist barrel came with the underlug soldered on. My fast twist barrel for the same rifle has it screwed on. My TC's all had them screwed on. I think if I was doing one myself screwing it on would be the easiest.
 
I have a .54 cal 15/16 barrel which I di not want to drill into. I soft solderred the rib about 15 years ago and haven't had a problem with it.

If you do solder, be careful not to use too much, or you will end up with a solder line along the edges of the rib which will be very noticible after browning.
 
the 2 old {1850's} halfestocks i have are both soldered. i have screwed some on and soldered one.
 
I solf soldered many and they all held up very well.

I just did one yesterday. If you do it, be sure to tin both pieces first. Use plenty of heat. And keep things clean. You will get solder on about everything so plan on some hours cleaning. I use a tool makers scraper to clean off most of it. As for a solder line, you will probably get a fine line even if things fit perfectly. I found that, in time, they become less noticable, and you can always use some form of color for the solder line.
 
I have yet to do one. But if soldering, remember solder will not stick to a dirty surface.
I have heard of some using pencil lead where you don't want the solder. I have also heard of using water soluable white out where you don't want the solder and washing it off after done.
 
Have used screws on all the under ribs on all the "Hawkens" I've built so far but the next under rib on the next "Hawken" will be riveted. From what I've heard this method of attachment is PC and also is "simpler". Drilling and tapping into the bbl can be "tricky" seeing the depth is very limited and perhaps that's why soldering is preferred by some. Riveting the rib is permanent but so is soldering but I don't see any reason to remove the under rib once the rifle is complete.....Fred
 
If you do solder, be careful not to use too much, or you will end up with a solder line along the edges of the rib which will be very noticible after browning.

Yes, a mistake I made once. Finally got it cleaned up with chisels.

I could probably be charged with tool abuse! :redface:
 
I'm leaning toward soldering. There was a little mix up on the stock so I'm still waiting on it. I'm made my trigger guard and started on the butt plate. I hope to get started soon. Our deer season closes the last day of the month but today was the last day I was going to get to hunt. Now I can put my time on this rifle.
 
when u use rivets, how do you seat the other end into the barrel. do u use a stake or a bit of solder?
 
Once soldered, I use these tools to clean things up. The blue is used to spot any solder still on the barrel. The Blue is easy to clean off when done. Of course you could use a good wood chisel instead of a tool makers' scraper. And, here is a use for that $2 pocket knife you bought at the flea market only to discover it was made in Pakistan. Use it to get into the corners.

Underribsolder04.jpg
 
I have always used screws but if you are putting a rib on a thin barreled gun then it would have to be soldered. When I use screws I drill the holes 3/4" to 1" from each end and a third one in the center of those two,I drill the hole so the threaded part has .005" clearance then counterbore for the head, I then position the rib on the barrel and mark one hole and drill and tap it 6-48 then with the screw tight I mark the other two holes and drill and tap them. I usually drill the holes .125" deep if there is enough barrel wall, I put the tap in the chuck and turn it by hand to get the tap started straight then loosen the chuck and put a tap wrench on it and finnish tapping.
Steve C.
 
The rivet [length of nail} fits in the shallow blind hole in the bbl and at the surface level a groove is filed all around the rivet and the bbl mat'l is staked into the groove. The rib w/ ctsk holes is laid on the bbl w/ the ends of the rivets somewhat above the rib surface and the rivets are then peened down into the ctsk and filed flush. The blind holes in the bbl are only .080-.090 deep and care must be taken when peening that a bulge isn't produced in the bore. Normally "Hawken" bbls are thicked walled so light taps when peening won't produce a bulge in the bore...Fred
 
In cleaning up a solder line, I use a hooked scraper. Cuts on the pull stroke, vertical to the surface. Then clean up with emery cloth. In riveting on a rib, I use 6x48 tapped holes about .10 deep. I tap them with a 6x48 tapered tap, then use a bottoming tap, like for scope base screws (available from Brownells). To locate the holes (3 as mentioned above, or 5 like on original Hawkens), I center punch the location on the rib, which is clamped on, and drill through it to just start the hole in the barrel. Then I position the barrel in my drill press vice so when the quill is pulled full down, it just touches the barrel (not the hole). Then I shim up the barrel with a .10 shim underneath. Barrel must be level and square and vice tight. Position a hole under the bit. Turn the drill on and pull the quill down over the hole. Adjust to perfect center by tapping on the table or vise with a plastic mallet. Then when you pull the quill down, the drill cannot cut any deeper than your shim has raised the barrel. Do all the holes.

An easy way to make the screwed in rivets is to use a 6x48 die and cut threads on a nail. A 3 1/2" nail (whatever penny that is) measures about .133 diameter, I think that is the one I use. A duplex nail (double headed) 2 3/4" mikes .137 and one 2 1/2" mikes .130. Cut the threads up about 1/4" and cut the point off square. Cut the "screw rivet" about 3/8" long, with a screw driver slot in the top. You then need to open up the rib hole for the untapped nail to fit through. Then lightly countersink the rib hole, for the rivet to peen into. Screw the "rivets" into the holes, and saw off the rivets so that light peening will fill the countersink. The rivet can be filed to match the rib groove, using a round file. Be sure to peen lightly so you don't bulge into the bore.

You can of course use 6x48 scope base screws, which are expensive, but that ain't the cowboy way. You can even file the (countersunk) heads off so they appear to be rivets.
 
A few thoughts on solder. Best to use a lead free solder like plumbers solder. You will need the right kind of flux for steel, not all will work. I have been using the solder Brownells sells, I think they call it 440. Clean both parts just before soldering and tin both. Coat with flux again and clamp in position then apply heat. You can add a little solder but it probably will not take much. Most of my rib soldering is on shotgun barrels that heat up quick, a heavy barrel may take some time. Heat the barrel, it will transfer the heat to the rib.
 

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