RPL L&R Lock

I have a TC PA Hunter rifle and was thinking of putting a RPL L&R lock on it to replace the original TC lock. I have the L&R Late English lock on my RCM and really like it. Has anyone here replaced their TC lock with one of the L&R locks? If so; how much modification was required and how do you like it in comparison to the original TC lock?

I have one I am about to work on myself, just need to get myself some inletting black and get to work with my chisels. Your gonna have to remove some wood. I think the profile is fine for the lock itself but the inside where the lock fits has to have some wood removed because of the different type of spring used in the traditional L&R lock. Will get at mine soon and will be glad to take some pics along the way.

B

I installed one on on my GRP and on a Renegade. It was about an hour or so in work. I think that they perform excellently. The strike of the flint to the frizzen has a much better geometry.

I replaced my GPR perc lock with an RPL lock. The plate fit pretty well without any wood removed from the outside of the existing inlet. I did file just a touch from one point on the lockplate and filed draft into the plate.

Inside the lock inlet, I had to remove a fair amount of wood to accomodate the V style mainspring, as GPRs have the coil spring. The instructions indicated that you may break through to the ramrod channel, which I did just a bit at the knee of the V-spring. I also had to remove some wood for the bolster and bridle to make everything fit snuggly. The instructions showed where the wood needed to be removed, but I just did it the old fashioned way with inletting black and a chisel.

Walks with fire said:

I have a TC PA Hunter rifle and was thinking of putting a RPL L&R lock on it to replace the original TC lock. I have the L&R Late English lock on my RCM and really like it. Has anyone here replaced their TC lock with one of the L&R locks? If so; how much modification was required and how do you like it in comparison to the original TC lock?

Click to expand...

Well,
I put that exact same lock into my Lyman Deerstalker a few years ago.All I can say is that lock increased my Joy of flintlocking 100%
There wasen't much wood that needed to be removed either.I think they are quality locks! :thumbsup:

What kind of tools will I need to remove the wood?
I assume I will need a narrow chisle of some sort to be able to get down inside the lock mortice. What else will come in handy?

WWF, when you replace with a brand new shiney, clean, lubricated lock send me that old nasty, dirty T/C lock and I'll dispose of it properly. Ha, Round Ball I beat you to it! Uncrichie.

I will keep it so that if I ever sell it the buyer can have the original lock with it. I just hope I don't have to remove too much wood that the original doesn't fit right. There really isn't anything bad about the lock but the trigger pull is too damn heavy. It's really not the trigger; it's the lock that's not able to be adjusted for a light pull.

I have replaced two TC locks with the L&R RPL this year. One was a renagade the other on a hawken. Had to shorten the hammer on the hawken so it would hit the nipple right for a GM barrel. I just used a burr bit on a drimmle tool. this is not too traditonal I know but it works very good. You won't be sorry for the change. Best investment you can make to this rifle next to a replacement barrel.

What kind of tools will I need to remove the wood?
I assume I will need a narrow chisle of some sort to be able to get down inside the lock mortice. What else will come in handy?

Click to expand...

Inletting black, or just use some old lipstick, which works pretty well.

You can do it all the wood removal with a small chisel or gouge. I also used a forstner bit to deepen the area for the bridle, but you could also do it with a chisel.

Old40Rod gave you good info on tools. You don't need much. I would suggest an X-Acto knife. If you have to remove anything around the lockplate, cut straight down with the knife then cut out the excess from the inside of the lockplate opening.

As for "inletting black," the best I've found in building many BP guns is nothing more than a glass bottle with a metal cap and a piece of cotton clothesline rope. If you can find a babyfood jar with a metal cap, they work real well. Punch a hole in the center of the cap and force the rope through.... keep it a tight fit. Run the rope to the bottom of the jar and add just a little. Cut the rope above the top of the lid to about 1 inch. Put kerosene in the jar. Wait a minute till the liquid soaks to the top of the rope wick and light it. It gives off a nice black soot. Hold your piece over the flame till it is coated with soot and you are ready to inlet. :grin:

Don't do anything dumb... like have black powder anywhere near while doing this. :shake:

"There really isn't anything bad about the lock but the trigger pull is too damn heavy. It's really not the trigger; it's the lock that's not able to be adjusted for a light pull."

That is not true I have adjusted the locks on a PA Hunter and a Lyman deerstalker to a very nice reliable 3 1/2 pounds. Since I see though that you are in PA like me I assume that this is a flintlock and the L&R flint RPL is worth the money no doubt. I have an RMC with an L&R lock and when I first got it the trigger pull was off of my 8lb scale and I had to send it back to be tuned. It was brand new and I wasn't fooling with it.

I'm thinking about a L&R RPL lock for my Investarm/Lyman Hawken flinter. It is similar to the trade rifle. Does anybody know if L&R has such a lock.

Regards

Kirrmeister

Kirrmeister,

RMC Sports is one place that carries them for different makes; not sure if it would fit yours or not. Have a look.
[url] http://rmcsports.com/catalog.htm[/url]

Hunter66,

When I bought my RMC rifle; (which I really like) I drove up to Grice Gun Shop and tried every Accusporter rifle in the place for a great trigger. The function and accuracy is absolutly fabulous.

Now; I want to get a decent trigger/lock set-up for my TC Hunter rifle. I like the rifle but I can't take the trigger creep/heavy pull any longer. I know I would shoot it much better if I got it set up right. The barrel is very accurate from the bench with a tight load but offhand I can't take advantage of it with the junk trigger.

How did you go about getting your PA Hunter trigger to be light and no creep? PM me if you could give me a few tips.

Kirrmeister said:

I'm thinking about a L&R RPL lock for my Investarm/Lyman Hawken flinter. It is similar to the trade rifle. Does anybody know if L&R has such a lock.

Regards

Kirrmeister

Click to expand...

[url] http://www.lr-rpl.com/rpltc.htm[/url]

Has anyone done this to a Traditions Deerhunter? If so, how difficult was it? Or would that be like putting gold-plated hubcaps on a Yugo?

Bill

Take the lock off the gun, and then look closely at the engagement of the sear nose in the full cock notch. Slowly release the sear when the lock is cocked, to see what movement occurs between those two parts.

Smoothing a trigger pull Begins with polishing the faces of those two parts. Then you look at the contact point where the trigger hits the sear bar. Those two surfaces need to be polished smooth, too. Sometimes, in those guns, the trigger is just located in the wrong place, so that the trigger plate is striking the sear bar in the wrong place, causing unnecessary leverage, and a harder trigger pull. That is when You probably want to turn the gun over to a competent gunsmith to fix this.

Finally, some trigger return springs, or sear return springs, the little spring up at the top rear of the lock that is screwed to the lock plate, and has an arm that is suppose to fit in the corner of the sear, is instead hitting someplace away from the corner. If that happens, it puts resistance against your sear and trigger and increases the trigger pull. A gunsmith can fix this.

Thanks to all who replied and sent PM's about my question. At someones advice I took the TC lock apart and polished the contact points and swapped out the sear spring with a ball point pen spring. It will be just dandy now! :hatsoff:

I have a RPL lock but have not installed it yet, because it came what you'd call,'in the white'? or as I'd say unfinished. Where can I get help about putting a color and protective finish on my lock?

Rusty