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Replacement Ramrods

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HuntAway

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Tips, hints, ideas?

I broke my ramrod on my GPR. I ordered a synthetic one from RMC but I just don't like the looks of it and it is about an inch too long.

Is there somewhere where I could order a wooden one? If not and I was to try and make my own, what kind of wood can I use and where can I get the end attachments. Are the plain hardwood dowells that hardware stores sell good enough?

Thanks,

HuntAway
 
Try looking at the Track of the Wolf. They have the components you need to make a good replacement rod. It will take some work on your end though.
 
I went to 3/8" brass rod. Drilled/tapped 10-32 each end (heavier but unbreakable and holds nicely offhand). You can get 3/8" O.D. Tubing with .065 walls (strong and lighter). 3/8" dowel (usually Ramin wood lately at hardware stores) will work if well chosen to exclude samples whose grain "runs out" too abruptly to be safe. Remove ends from the broken rod or purchase new, install and cross-pin with 1/8" brazing rod riveted in place. I still use a wooden rod for "wiping" between shots, and find it handy at the range or home to clean with. Can't have too many extra rods. Try USE-ENCO dot COM look under Raw Materials under Categories for metal. I think Dixie carries Hickory splits (order several and pick the best I've been advised). Most BP/ML supply outlets carry ends.
 
To answer your question, the wood to use is split hickory. Split, rather than cut, or sawn, because splitting the wood followes the growth rings, or " Grain", while sawning the wood often cuts across grain, giving you " run-out". Run-out is a weak spot, and will be where the rod breaks if and when it does.

Talk to Log Cabin, Dixie, Track of the wolf, and any other supplier that may be close to you. If possible you want to pick out your own sticks. You can by the end ferrules, and jags to make the fitting for the rod(s), but you always want to remember to pin the ferrules to the rod, by drilling a cross-hole through the ferrule and rod, say for a common nail, at least 1/16" inch, and then run a pin through it, peen the ends down, and file them flush. I also use epoxy resin to help hold the pins in place, and use the same epoxy to glue the ferrule to the end of the rod. If you put a handle, ( Door knob, T-handle, bone, antler, etc.) on the other end of the ramrod, to make a " Range Rod ", used for loading, cleaning and the occasional ball pulling-- pin the handle to the rod the same way you pin the ferrule to the stick. You can taper a hickory rod to fit easier into the stock of your gun, and still have a strong rod.

In order to not be breaking rods, DON'T push them done the barrel from the opposite end. Reaching that far out makes you use your large muscle groups, and you can put too much pressure on the stick, and maybe bend it so that it is breaking before you can stop putting pressure on this. Instead, always run a rod down the barrel in short, hand-over-hand strokes of no more than 8 inches at a time. Yes, your finger have to wrap around the rod, and they may get dirty, but they look a lot better even dirty, without a ramrod run through them. Turn your hands palms away from your body, thumbs down, and grab the ramrod with only your fingers-- NO THUMBS. if for some reason a powder charge ignites in the barrel, the body's defensive reaction to pain to the inside of fingers, is to open those fingers quickly as if you were dropping a hot potatoe. That action will save you your fingers, and skin. Of course, when you are pulling the rod out of the barrel, you can take it out with one long pull on the handle, or back end. Just be careful about bending the rod at the muzzle. If you have to choke up on the rod with another hand, do so. Save the rod.

One of the rarest things in nature is a straight stick. Plants tend to arc towards the sun at its strongest position. Finding a straight stick, even one that is split from a tall hickory tree, represents a real " find ". The straightest hickory trees grow up from the bottom of steep ravines, where they are protected from the wind, turning them until they are perhaps 30 or 40 feet tall, and straight. You can get a lot of ramrods out of a hickory tree like that. I have seen hickory trees that are no more than 12 inches at their base, and 8 inches 6 feet off the ground that top out at 60 feet and taller, and have the first 35 -40 feet as straight as an arrow, all because they are protected from winds in the bottom of ravines.

The wood dowels sold in hardware stores are usually pine, or birch. They DO NOT make good ramrods, and you will almost always find run-out of the grain somewhere along their length. And, when you sight down them, you rarely find a rod that is truly straight its full length.
 
When you order one ramrod blank from a place like Dixie or Track of the Wolf they will usually tape it to a section of wood furring strip and charge you the additional postage, and possibly additional handling. I usually order three blanks at a time. Most dowels, even hickory rammer blanks, start out as squared stock and are run through a doweling machine (basically a high-speed router with multiple cutting heads) and the grain is all over the place. I chose the best of the three hickory dowels as my rammer; that is, the one with the straightest grain/least grain run-out. The next best I make a spare rammer and the third I either leave full length as a cleaning rod or chop up as needed for other projects.

Hardware store dowels are commonly made of ramin nowadays. An even poorer choice than poplar. I don't like it as an arrow wood or a rammer as it snaps across the fine grain too easily.
 
The last time I looked at wood dowels in either a hardware store, here, or a hobby shop, they were birch. Ramin is terrible wood. You might was well try to use balsa. When I buy my rods from the dealers at Friendship, I may spend half an hour finding a rod that has NO runout, and is straight. The dealers know exactly what I am doing, as I go through their boxes of rods. I tend to buy 2 or three and sometimes more rods at a time, so I can help out a club member who manages to break a rod, or have stock available to make short starters, and shorter rods for cleaning pistols. Sometimes I will buy a rod that is straight for about 90% of its length, but then has a hook in it. I save the bad end for short repair dowels, and use the rest for shorter rods. Most of the rods come in 48 inch lengths, so there is extra wood for all but the longest barrels.
 
Good Ramin is one of the toughest doweling out there. Ramin doesn't actually have a grain structure like we are used to with our native woods. The way to tell if Ramin is good or not is to rub some stain on one to bring out the rather unusual grain that is almost impossible to see without this measure done first. Also DO NOT sand Ramin by chucking it in a cordless drill and squeezing sandpaper around it as the heat will actually weaken the "grain".

Stumpy, what spine and length woodies do you normally shoot? I may have to send you a few that may change your mind about ramin.

BTW - As a disclaimer, I do not have experience with Ramin as a RAMMER, but actually as Arrow wood.
 
65-70# with a 30-1/2" draw length plus 3/4"+ for the tip taper (my bow pulls 59# at that draw length and I "add five" for the head and to get it to shoot where I'm looking). I have a very upright, open stance and use the WHOLE shaft.

I had two dozen ramin shafts from Three Rivers Archery and every one split at the shoulder behind the steel blunt when stump shooting on either the first or second hit. :-( I bought these as shafts maybe 10 years back during the Port Orford scare and was very unhappy with them. Cast iron b!tc#es to straighten, too.

Also hard to index the nock perpendicular to the grain because, as you note, as there is no visible grain.
 
The next time I build some Ramins from my "Stash" I will whip up a few for you to try.

BTW - I meant to mention earlier in the previous reply, that Ramin dowels are CHEAP to buy. You could buy a couple dozen and cull through them to get some usable ramrods cheaper than ordering a couple and paying shipping from somewhere else. YRMV
 
what Paul said. there's a fellow in the back of MuzzleBlast magazine who sells hickory blanks.

good luck with your project.

msw
 
What Paul said also. :thumbsup: Steve Bailey (573) 547-4540
Just my own personal opinion. Ain't carrying around no fiberglass, solid, hollow brass, ramine, birch dowel or other abominable or even dangerous rod on my rifle. Cut, stain, wax or oil and your good to go. PC, functional, safe and reliable. Range rod is a different story. :v
 
Holy smokers Batman!!!

I never expected so many replies and so much info. Thanks a lot folks, much appreciated.

sniper68, I take it that is the fella in the back of the magazine.

I'm not much of a PC kind of guy but I do know I like wood over plastic.

Thanks again all.
 

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