• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Jacob Dickert

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Whew i`m getting tired just looking at the pics, looks like a lot of work alright but your gettin er done. :bow: :thumbsup:
 
I was hoping no one would notice that.
Thought about trying to put them back on.
How hard would it be?
Kinda got rounded off while finishing.
Made a big mistake on the trigger guard.
After I pinned it I added wood screws to it. :redface:
 
You can put those flats back on with a file. Finish the flats with abrasive paper backed with a file or wood block. Messed up your guard? Please ask for bailouts in the future when you make a mistake. Fixes are far easier than you think....if you would just slow down a bit.
 
Mike makes a good point.

When building one of these guns a person will meet many obstacles. Things they never even thought about before and they will have the question, "What do I do now?". They may come up with several ideas and some of them are not the best way to do the job.

When this occurs, it is best to stop right there and ask for some guidance.
Many of us have already "walked the road" and can help give the answers to the best way (which isn't always the easiest or the most obvious way).

The best advice I can give at the moment is, "When in doubt, slow down and ask."

zonie :)
 
Don't file flats all the way up the comb on your buttplate. Leave some of it round and file some grooves in it. Like this:

P9210009.jpg


Just about all of the Lancaster smiths did this. The flats are generally lower than the round part with the filed in beading or moulding. I have heard it called both ways. Use the little tiny jewelers files. I use the triangle file mostly. Just file the moulding in the rounded part on top, don't file it in on the sides.

That picture is a little to hot. Maybe you can see the moulding better in this one:

P9210007.jpg


Do you see what I mean by the flats being filed in below the rounded part?
 
What was that, a one week gun? In a race with your neighbor? :hmm:
I wish you would have asked for some shaping pointers before you slapped the stain and finish on.
 
I can remove more wood if need be.
I just had to see it with the stain on and see how much curl would show up.
Not added any finish to it yet.
I removed quite a bit of wood.
The barrel to wood thickness is between 1/32 to 1/16.
I brought the comb to a point in line with the tang bolt and the center of the butt plate.
I left a lot of wood around the cheek rest.
In case I want to do some engraving in the future.
Not right now though.
 
82nd I think you're on your way to having a fine rifle. You've certainly accomplished a lot in a short time.
 
Back
Top