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Trade Gun is almost in the white

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Raynor

40 Cal.
Joined
Aug 9, 2004
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Need to clean up the barrel, shape the forend, then solder on the front sight and I'll have it in the white.

n1.jpg
 
what type of stain/finish will you use?
looks good from here
:thumbsup:
 
I plan to brown the barrel and use Fiebing's dark brown leather dye, LMF Sealer, then LMF Finish on the stock. :)
 
Raynor,

Looking good, man.

Just a note on metal finishes for NW guns. English and Belgian made trade guns generally had "bright blue" barrels suggesting a charcoal blue instead of a rust blue. I just read Parson's 1952 article "Gunmakers of the American Fur Co" and he also quotes an order from AFC to the American builder John Joeseph Henry for 580 NW guns in 1828 specifying maple or walnut stocked with square butts, ordered by barrel length, with 6" locks and "the barrels to be of bright Blue, and the Stocks to be well varnished." It appears blueing predominated on these guns long after the rise in popularity of browning in the US.

Sean

Sean
 
Raynor, That looks nice the way the grain falls through the stock looks almost like spalt. Nice effect. :applause:
 
Thanks for the comments. :)

I have a bunch of reading material on the NW Trade Guns and realize that for the most part they had blued barrels with polished locks and heavily varnished stocks. :grin:

This one will be a keeper, not a seller. I prefer browned to blued and will be using it for a hunter, not a rondy piece. I think I'll end up browning the lock as well. :hmm:
 
It does have a spalt look, can't wait to get some color on it. :thumbsup:
 
Do you know what time period your gun parts are representitive of? smoe of the NW gun kits/parts sets out there range from the Rev war to the 1840's the differences might be subtle but there were some variables thru that time frame.
 
No reason you can't brown it. Its gonna look good and shoot better. How long a barrel?

Sean
 
The lock looks a little deep in the wood yet, might just be the picture. Should be a fun gun.
 
that ought to make a great bush gun, you'll really like the larger trigger guard in the winter months, lots of room for wool!
 
I have the same observation as Mike Brooks...take those lock panels down flush to the edges of the lockplate. Then be sure to go over to the other side and duplicate the thickness and shape of the lock panels on the other side. Once you do that all your lines will flow naturally from the lock panels.

FWIW, the locks were usually left bright and not browned or blued.
 
The lock panels do need to be taken down some. The detail should be just about gone by the time I get things were they should be. I'll then need to carve them back in. :thumbsup:

I'd much rather build from a blank, this was a pre-carved. Everything was inlet sloppy on this thing, tang has a gap to the left, lock isn't as tight as I'd like and needed to be let in about 1/8" deeper. All leading to extra work that would have been much quicker to do from scratch. :cursing:
 
Very nice :thumbsup:
Where did the parts come from. What kind of lock?
I would like to put one together. Maybe some day soon.
Lehigh...
 
It's a TOW parts kit, if I were to do it again I'd buy the stock that doesn't have the lock inlet and get a Chambers Virginia Fowler lock.

The one I built has the Tryon lock.
 
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