Sunlight seen between lock inlet and barrel

When you take the shot that will make you champion the barrel will drop out. Works every time

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Ain't it the truth.

I always use a generous coating of paste wax in place of the release agent Brownell's sends. Even that won't help if you managed to glass in a feature that allows a 'rivet' or 'dovetail' of glass to form somewhere that holds the barrel in place. Did you perhaps get some on a pin lug (forming an epoxy pin)? You might be able to snap it out with a sharp smack from a rubber mallet - or snap the stock just as easily. :curse: I've only bedded one M/L, and that was my first (and last) kit that I got overly enthuiastic with a gouge at the plug shoulder.

With breechloading bolt actions and single shots I only ever bed the action and one nickle sized spot just ahead of that if there is a barrel bolt with clay dams everywhere. I've bedded enough boat and model airplane hardware in epoxy to know that it gets everywhere, want it to or not.

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Regular epoxy can go every where but the Gel acraglas is really manageable it stays where you put it. Of course if you put pressure on it like a barrel into a barrel channel it will fill spaces but then that is what it is supposed to do. I really prefer the gel over the standard epoxy it works well. Jim

I only put dabs of the stuff along the spaces between the pin lugs but it could've squished into those areas come to think of it...........hmmmm. I was really proud of the way I used modeler's clay to prepare the breech areas' nooks, crannies and lock bolt hole but, alas. I guess I'll just quit crying about it and leave it alone. I suppose it won't hurt to leave it as it is.

I wrap my barrel in saran wrap plastic food wrap before I bed it.Works great!I cut along the top of barrel after it is dry and pop the barrel right out.I dont trust that release agent that comes with it.Plastic wrap is cheap and easy and works!

Now you tell me. That idea should be included with the bedding instructions.

JJames: If you didn't fill the underlug pin holes, most likely that is where the problem is. You should be able to carefully redrill these holes out & most likely the barrel will come out. If they are slotted underlugs it may be a problem. Another place some forget is the breech of the barrel. Usually the plug is slightly recessed there into the barrel, leaving a place that it will lock. I fill that with modelers clay & then scrape it off flush with the barrel with a razor blade.

Now when I bed a barrel I inlet the barre/breech/tang, THEN I put the tennons on & inlet them & etc. Lots easier for me this way & less locking problems to deal with.

One time I bedded on & for two days could not get it out. Then it hit me I forgot to fill the hole where the lock bolt goes thru the tang, so I actually had a oversized 10-32 bolt of epoxy there. Drilled it out & the barrel came right out.

Custom Muzzleloaders & Custom Skinning Knives

Now you tell me. That idea should be included with the bedding instructions.

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Yea but if they did that they could not sell extra release agent as that is usually used up first. :curse: Good idea about the saran wrap will have to give that a try. Jim

Good to hear from you Birddog6, you may not believe it but you were the most help of all during my first (and last) gun build. Yes sir, I filled the lockbolt hole AND the recess of the plug with the clay and scaped it level with a little piece of styrene I had laying around. When I realized I couldn't remove the barrel I found that I could easily push the clay plug out with the lock bolt and it started into the lockplate just as pretty as you please. So you see, the barrel is properly secured to the stock with all pins and bolts in place. I simply cannot remove it with at least moderate effort and risk of damage and can you tell me just why it's so important that it be removed at all? And if so, would not the above mentioned methods be just as effective at a later day? I feel that the glas bedding resin or epoxy stuff will effectively keep out water during cleaning and I am very careful with the water. Thanks

JJames: I am most pleased that some of my tidbits have helped you.

For the life of me, I can't think of a single crucial reason to ever take the barrel out unless you have a problem & it needs repaired.

Now the first thing someone is gonna say is to clean under the barrel. And I will agree that is the proper way to clean one now & then & it is a good gun cleaning proceedure.

But IMHO, I will say with Normal Use & just general gun care, that barrel will Never rust thru in yours, your kids & your grandkids lifetimes. I have removed barrels from 25 years old to 200 year old & they will have a lil rust, yes... but a rust Problem...

The problem that could occur is IF you have flashing under the lock & barrel & etc. because of a improper barrel/flashpan fit, that could possibly develope into an issue later on. But with good fits & good cleanings around the lock area & etc., it will be on someones wall a LONG time before it will be a problem.

Every single ML gun I have ever had apart that had a issue with rust was simply because it has Never seen a drop of oil & it was shot over & over & never cleaned at all, or put away wet, or left in the barn or basement & put away dirty, all of them were just absolutely ridiculous obvious things.

If you are comfortable with it bedded in the stock, I say leave it there. If you have to deal with it later, then you will deal with it then & ya never know, it may fall right out then too ! ha ha !

That's just what I wanted to hear. Now I will sleep better tonight. Thanks once again!