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I second what Stumpkiller says. Whatever was at hand when a loading block was needed was most likely what got used, particularly in cases where the local sawmill, carpentry shop, or other source of different types of scrap wood was miles away.

We have more freedom than to settle on whatever scraps are laying around. I use maple for my blocks -- less prone to wear than pine or poplar, less prone to splitting than oak or walnut, and no one can argue its authenticity.
 
In the interest of helping me make a couple of these, would you guys post photos of different loading blocks you use? I don't know anyone who actually uses one. Then again, I only know about 4 people who shoot blackpowder, and I'm one of them. So, in deference to your expertise :bow: , let's see what you got.
 
Hey there Shifty eyed Critter, I 'm in oregon also and made a few different loading blocks.
I shoot out in yamhill. I gave several away and have made 3 different styles, all 50 cal cause thats what we're shooting. I found 3/8 thick material to work well. I have used mohogany, oak , maple and some weird import pallet wood that worked well. My favorite holds 5 patched balls, has the top edged sanded round, the bottom( that goes over the barrel) I recessed a strong 1/8 inch with a 1" forstner bit, keeps the lube of my cloths somewhat and self centers over the bore and just looks neat. the others are arrowheads that hold 3, a cutting board shape that holds 6 and I found a horsehead on this site a short while back that was just plain "i gotta have one of those" neat!
Maybe we can hook up at fhbpb in yamhill and Ill give ya one of my favorites!

Brett

...oh ya.... the lube will soak into the block, so be certain you have lube on the patches prior to using!
 
In the interest of helping me make a couple of these, would you guys post photos of different loading blocks you use?

Here's a selection of just my .54 cal blocks. :haha: Clockwise starting with the (maple) three-holer. Maple, walnut, cherry, purpleheart, and maple again. The two maples are "modified" from the blocks Track of the Wolf sells.

IM000565a.jpg


The purpleheart slips in a sheath on the back of my hunting bag. The three-holer is tied to my horn strap and rides in a tight strap/loop (so it doesn't dangle and tangle). During deer season I keep at least one ball in the three-holer with an 0.010" patch. I can load that with two quick pushes right through the block with the rammer for a rapid follow-up shot.
 
mudd turtle said:
What was the most common wood used for makeing loading blocks. Mudd Turtle.

You answered your own question. Whatever was "common" and available. No one wood is better than another. The block is only holding the balls for a very short time anyway. It's not a long-term storage method. Left too long, the lube will eventually dry and not be consistent with a fresh load.
 
Mudd I like Osage Orange Wood, the wood they use for bows. It gets real nice looking after lube soaks in. Have used walnut and other woods,also deer antler. They have a chart in Here that gives the drill sizes,Do a search for it. Dilly
 
That chart gives the size to drill for the ball diameter. Don't forget that a patch needs to squeeze in there also so the hole may need to be a bit larger. I use 5/8 for .54 caliber. and 9/16 for .50 caliber.
Your results may vary.

HD
 
Huntin Dawg said:
That chart gives the size to drill for the ball diameter. Don't forget that a patch needs to squeeze in there also so the hole may need to be a bit larger. I use 5/8 for .54 caliber. and 9/16 for .50 caliber.
Your results may vary.

HD
Not necessarily HD.
Round balls must be smaller than the bore diameter in order to fit down the barrel. I'd say that, on average, a round ball would be .20 small than the bore. for a Brown Bess, your choices are .715 or .735 for standard mould sizes. And I once asked Mike Brooks what to shoot out of a .55 smooth rifle; he suggested s .530 Round ball. I used to believe that the loading block had to be just under the actual bore diameter, but after reading many of the member responses, I'd say that the holes in the loading block should reflect the actual bore diameter.
But, as you say, other's results will vary.
 
Claude Mathis said:
Huntin Dawg said:
That chart gives the size to drill for the ball diameter.

Not for me. My .50 caliber ball is .490
Adding the .015 patch makes it tight enough to stay in the block.

I guess I should have said BORE diameter not BALL diameter.
It's up to the individual to find just the right size hole in their block to hold the ball/patch. The chart is a good starting point.
I prefer my ball/patch combo to fit just slightly snug in the block. Too tight and it squeezes out the lube and I found that if the patch is already compressed too much in a loading block that it affects accuracy.
:hatsoff:

HD
 
Mudd
Here is the loading block I use, it's made of mahogany. Along with my bone handled patch knife.

PatchKnifeBlock.jpg


Regards, Dave
 
shifty-eyed critter said:
Thanks for the photos, guys. I'm on my way to the shop.

Wonder if someone could modify one of these "heads" to make a one-of-a-kind ball block??? :hmm: :winking:

DSC00022.JPG
 
The way I've heard some of them used,,, We'd all be better off if they were used as a loading block!!!!!!! :haha:
 

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