• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades
  • Friends, our 2nd Amendment rights are always under attack and the NRA has been a constant for decades in helping fight that fight.

    We have partnered with the NRA to offer you a discount on membership and Muzzleloading Forum gets a small percentage too of each membership, so you are supporting both the NRA and us.

    Use this link to sign up please; https://membership.nra.org/recruiters/join/XR045103

Arquebus

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Are you speaking of the picture on this page?
Cool Stuff
I am seriously considering it. I have a barrel on hand that would be about right. I just need to figure out how the push button works (likely it is more simple than I am imagining). The rest of the "lock" (not really enough to be called a lock in my opinion) looks like it would be simple enough to build.
 
I think the push button is on one end of a long spring with the sear in the middle. Push the button, the sear move sideways, the lock fires :thumbsup:
 
Looking at it now I understand. I was missing one of the pictures before because the computer didn't open it, the picture was the one with the lock removed. Now I have it figured out. I am also thinking that I may go with a .75 caliber barrel (easy for me to get ahold of) rather than the 20 gauge I was considering.
 
It works that way in the cardboard-and-coathanger (and duct tape!) mockup I built this weekend... couldn't resist - this is an absolutely fascinating piece to me, for some reason (inhaled too much bp smoke, maybe?)

M

Hey - Squire Robin... I notice your age and caliber match... how long did it take for that to happen?!?!? :hmm:
 
This pushbutton lock gun is the coolest. I wasn't realy in the mood to do another gun soon, but this one is as cool as it is. I like the green, I already have one in blue, never thought of green!
PA180004.jpg
 
if we all post our version of the gun we each build should be great to see. looking forward to building this one...chuck
 
Squire Robin said:
I think the push button is on one end of a long spring with the sear in the middle. Push the button, the sear move sideways, the lock fires :thumbsup:
I came to same conclusion-Button on end of Flat & long springstock with sear projection in the middle. :winking:
 
It is tempting but I don't dare add to the pile of unfinished projects
But several unfinished projects at a time is part of the fun. Right now I have 2 unfinished guns sitting in the shop, 3 half finished locks (one match one flint and one attempt at a snaplock), several knives in partial states of completion and even a new forge set up that needs to be put together.
I am thinking rather than a full replica of this one I wil adapt a few things. I figure a 20 gauge tapered round barrel, matchlock rather than a "Sponge Lock" (I had read about them before but had never seen a picture of one)as stated on the site. Since the stock will be painted I will likely go with a differnt wood as Lime wood isn't something I find on a regular basis, however basswood would be fairly close as far as working characteristics if memory serves right, but then again it is a bit soft for what I would consider to be a good stock wood.
 
however basswood would be fairly close as far as working characteristics
I just looked it up Lime Wood and Basswood are very closely related, same Genues just a differnt species.
 
If you look at the bottom of the link page there is a second gun with haken.If you wanting to modify trigger from push button-think about how the Jap Teppo sear/trigger engagement works.Also one could make the version on DRU SHUMAKERS website no trigger at all.He just crudely extended the serpentine.Just food for thought. :hmm:
 
If you look at the bottom of the link page there is a second gun with haken.If you wanting to modify trigger from push button-think about how the Jap Teppo sear/trigger engagement works.Also one could make the version on DRU SHOEMAKER'S website, the 15th century Snap MatchLock Replica, no trigger at all(not sure what the screw on the plate is for)?He just crudely extended the serpentine.Just food for thought. :hmm:
 
If you wanting to modify trigger from push button-think
Actually I plan on building it with the push button, that is one of the coolest things about the gun in my opinion. The guys at the gun club already think I'm nuts shooting matchlocks and a couple of gonnes, the push button should really make them think I've lost it.
 
Tennessee Valley Manufacturing makes a 14" Breech plugged Blunderbus smoothbore Barrel at reasonable cost for a Barrel option. :winking:
 
I have one of those blunderbuss barrels sitting under the bench right now. It is a really nice piece of work, but it is reserved for another piece right now. I have a 30 inch thick walled tapered round barrel in 20 gauge that I think I will use for the piece. I'm just trying to decide whether or not to cut it down the 8 inches to match the original or not. If I cut it down I could file in the muzzle flare like on the original. I am still trying to decide what to stock the gun in as well. I do have a nice plank of basswood that would be about perfect (10 inches long, 2 inches think and 7 inches wide), but I still think basswood would be to soft for my liking. I think a trip to the lumberyard may be in order to see what they have on hand or I may just order a maple blank as the stock will be painted anyways.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top