I'm so depressed with new gun

before you put the lock back in, push its trigger forward to make sure it goes under the scear bar of the lock.

You are correct, a new gun should not have these issues.

Silly question. Did this problem show up as received the gun and took it out of the box? Or did it start after some disassembly and cleaning. Only ask because as I am trying to describe how I do it I find a number of things that I do without thinking about when I work on my gun.

A lot of posts back and forth. Maybe something missed at one end or the other. I’m reposting what said in post 31 because of what I found disassembling and assembling assuming I had never done it before. I see potential issues.

Reassembly. Remove the barrels. Push the trigger forward so the lock sear bar clears it. You may have to work hammer around the tang a bit. If you don’t, the sear will be against the side of the trigger bar, locking you up. Same for the left lock. Believe this may be an ‘assembly sequence’ problem. There is very little clearance between the lock sear and the trigger. Photo is if the right lock sear in correct position with hammer down

Won’t be able to post for the next 45 minutes or so, but I should be able to talk on the phone. I’ll pm you my number if you want to talk.

I'm proud! It is fixed completely. I removed the trigger and noticed the little pin that goes between them was not in the right trigger hole. I simply backed out the pin and reinstalled it. I just wonder what caused it to do that? Thank you guys! I will not cock both triggers anymore, just one at a time. Is this where I messed up SDmilf?

I cock both hammers all the time. Shot clays with the gun yesterday.

Fine to cock both hammers if you are about to shoot, good on you for finding the problem and fixing it. Might have just been set up wrong from the factory

This whole thread is illustrative of what a big part of our sport is all about - helping each other overcome difficulties. Hats off to all involved here, especially Messrs. SDSmlf and Blackpowder Bob. Reading about your helpfulness in solving Hawk78's problem made my day.

Congratulations Hawk78.

Now that the problem is fixed, I will move this thread to the Smoothbore section where it belongs.

Hawk78 said:

I guess the next step is removing the trigger because I still have to manually push the trigger forward to be able to fire the left barrel and/or re-cock the right barrel? This is a brand new gun and shouldn't be giving me these issues dang it.

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Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person. My thought from what I am hearing is that one or both of the trigger bars might be too high. That could happen if the person who installed the triggers tightened the trigger plate screw/screws too tight, OR the mortice is too deep. If the locks work outside the stock and the internal lock parts are not rubbing on wood, then triggers are the issue. I take a caliper depth gauge and measure the distance between the finish stock where the trigger plate should be flush to the sear. Then measure the distance from finish side of the trigger plate to the top of the trigger bar. If they don't match, you have located the issue. If you do not have a depth caliper, shim the triggers with a piece of cardboard that is off the back of a notebook. If the trigger bar is pushing on the sear that will keep the lock from going into full cock.
Hang in there Hawk78!
Flintlocklar

Zonie said:

Congratulations Hawk78.

Now that the problem is fixed, I will move this thread to the Smoothbore section where it belongs.

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Ok, thanks Mr. Zonie

Larry (Omaha) said:

Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person. My thought from what I am hearing is that one or both of the trigger bars might be too high. That could happen if the person who installed the triggers tightened the trigger plate screw/screws too tight, OR the mortice is too deep. If the locks work outside the stock and the internal lock parts are not rubbing on wood, then triggers are the issue. I take a caliper depth gauge and measure the distance between the finish stock where the trigger plate should be flush to the sear. Then measure the distance from finish side of the trigger plate to the top of the trigger bar. If they don't match, you have located the issue. If you do not have a depth caliper, shim the triggers with a piece of cardboard that is off the back of a notebook. If the trigger bar is pushing on the sear that will keep the lock from going into full cock.
Hang in there Hawk78!
Flintlocklar

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The pin that goes between the two tiggers was the issue, along with too much wood inside the lock mortise. I put the pin back into proper position and problem is fixed for now. But after talking with SDmilf, we came to the conclusion that I need to measure that pin and get one a little longer to prevent this from happening again. I'm so glad I joined this club!

This is some impressive help. As a new guy to BP this is reassuring.

Larry (Omaha) said:

Reading an issue is hard to diagnose without actually seeing in person.

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I tend to agree with you that it is usually difficult to diagnose problems without the gun in hand, but this case was kind of unique. @Hawk78 wasn’t looking looking for someone to solve the problem, but rather he was looking for someone to help him solve a problem. I had shot a round of sporting clays (60 shots) yesterday with virtually the identical gun, which I had yet to assemble post cleaning. With the same gun in front of me, I was able to basically duplicate the step by step troubleshooting process Hawk was trying on his gun on my gun, and with Hawk’s willingness and drive to resolve the issue, it was pretty easy. He figured it out, I just tossed ideas at him. I’m willing to bet that in the future if someone has a similar issue Hawk will be able to successfully walk them through the troubleshooting process.

SDSmlf said:

I tend to agree with you that it is usually difficult to diagnose problems without the gun in hand, but this case was kind of unique. @Hawk78 wasn’t looking looking for someone to solve the problem, but rather he was looking for someone to help him solve a problem. I had shot a round of sporting clays (60 shots) yesterday with virtually the identical gun, which I had yet to assemble post cleaning. With the same gun in front of me, I was able to basically duplicate the step by step troubleshooting process Hawk was trying on his gun on my gun, and with Hawk’s willingness and drive to resolve the issue, it was pretty easy. He figured it out, I just tossed ideas at him. I’m willing to bet that in the future if someone has a similar issue Hawk will be able to successfully walk them through the troubleshooting process.

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Well Done! Glad you could help a fellow muzzleloader.
Larry

Hawk78 said:

The pin that goes between the two tiggers was the issue, along with too much wood inside the lock mortise. I put the pin back into proper position and problem is fixed for now. But after talking with SDmilf, we came to the conclusion that I need to measure that pin and get one a little longer to prevent this from happening again. I'm so glad I joined this club!

Click to expand...

Welcome to the Forum; we love you, we're not like the rest!

Heelerau said:

You are correct, a new gun should not have these issues.

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It's a new era - one of mass production shortcuts and budget cuts. Back in the 20th Century, there was more pride in workmanship and more quality control. More hands on each firearm before it was just yanked off the final assembly rack & stuffed into a box.

Today, budgets are cut, skilled and tenured craftsman and assembly line workers are replaced with smaller work crews and less experienced workers. QC seems to be the first department to fall to the budget cut blade.

This very problem of incomplete fitting and finishing looks to be the new normal. I've seen it in several firearms I've purchased within the past 3+ years. None of the functional problems were anything a little hand-fitting didn't remedy, as was performed in this thread.

Anymore, firearms of any price can easily be regarded as DIY kits, requiring your handwork to become tuned up to work as they were designed.

Very few firearms I've ever purchased wereready-to-go to my satisfaction out of the box. All required some measure of disassemble, cleaning and maybe even a little touch uo to make them all they should be.

Cap & Ball revolvers all need a little Dremel polishing on friction parts, as do most semi autos. Rifles have needed a little fine relieving of wood around lock parts, sear and trigger(s).

It's the new normal.

I know I'm at the right place if I ever need help with my guns!

There is a YouTube video, Pedersoli Enfield P53 Unboxing + First Look at its Quality that may help. If you forward to 7:48 minutes, you can see the lock.