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Uberti Walker replica

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I was told that Colt decided not to blue the cylinders because they were afraid the process may weaken the walls of the cylinder/chambers. May have been the temperatures involved? Someone here knows more.

I have an ASM Walker unblued. I’m going to cold blue the barrel etc. and maybe start leaving the cylinder outside for a few days at a time.

Last note: it should be a violation of the Forum rules to post photos like this without a tutorial on how you create a holster like that!

Have a good Sunday!

don

Guns manufactured at that time would have been rust blued, so temperatures would not have been a consideration. It would seem to me that would not explain why the cylinders were left in the white. Maybe Colt simply thought the guns looked better with the cylinder in the white. In days of yore, it was not uncommon to see military and commercial rifles with bolts in the white, and sometimes even receivers. I am thinking cylinders, bolts, and receivers were left in the white as a matter of aesthetics. But, what do I know?

Did your ASM Walker leave the factory un-blued?

I took other pictures of the process of making this holster, and would gladly make up a tutorial showing how this one was made. How should I do this? Just add to this post, or create a new one? If a new one, where do I place it? Is there a limit to how many pictures we can include on a single post? I don't want them to get all mixed up, or not even show, like they did at the beginning of this thread.

Here is another very similar holster I made for my replica Spiller and Burr revolver about 10 yeras ago:
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I have used vinegar to remove rust or bluing in the past, but noticed that it did etch steel. The thought of it getting inside a barrel or cylinder, or other item of precision, is not something I would want on any gun of mine. I do like the idea of EvapoRust though, and plan to give it a try. I think Home Depot carries it loclally.
 
Guns manufactured at that time would have been rust blued, so temperatures would not have been a consideration. It would seem to me that would not explain why the cylinders were left in the white. Maybe Colt simply thought the guns looked better with the cylinder in the white. In days of yore, it was not uncommon to see military and commercial rifles with bolts in the white, and sometimes even receivers. I am thinking cylinders, bolts, and receivers were left in the white as a matter of aesthetics. But, what do I know?

Did your ASM Walker leave the factory un-blued?

I took other pictures of the process of making this holster, and would gladly make up a tutorial showing how this one was made. How should I do this? Just add to this post, or create a new one? If a new one, where do I place it? Is there a limit to how many pictures we can include on a single post? I don't want them to get all mixed up, or not even show, like they did at the beginning of this thread.

Here is another very similar holster I made for my replica Spiller and Burr revolver about 10 yeras ago:
View attachment 40715View attachment 40716View attachment 40717View attachment 40718
A while back someone posted a link to a utube video where a gentleman made a center seam knife sheath. Was a neat video, he put his camera on the tripod over his work area and just explained what he was doing and the whys. It was well done, simple and maybe 8-10 minutes long in total. Maybe try that?
 
When you say 'etch' what exactly do you mean ? Light pitting ? Would like to see a picture of etching on metal. I'm coming into possesion of a Walker soon and plan to remove a bit of bluing. I'm going for something like this;


EvapoRust is the only thing I've seen yet that won't etch the material. A polished surface stays bright and it won't hurt a bore.
 
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Has anyone tried to swap ( Italian) Walker revolver parts ? Another words swapping one Walker revolver trigger guard/ barrel assembly/ grip panel for another from a different revolver ?
 
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Has anyone tried to swap ( Italian) Walker revolver parts ? Another words swapping one Walker revolver trigger guard/ barrel assembly/ grip panel for another from a different revolver ?

No, I haven't, but from the same manufacturer the parts should interchange with very little or no fitting, especially the ones made after 2000 or so, when manufacturers went to CNC machining.
 
A while back someone posted a link to a utube video where a gentleman made a center seam knife sheath. Was a neat video, he put his camera on the tripod over his work area and just explained what he was doing and the whys. It was well done, simple and maybe 8-10 minutes long in total. Maybe try that?

I don't want to do that, but I am willing to post pictures I took while I constructed it. I am still a new guy here, and I don't know forum rules or etiquette. Should I start a new thread in another area of the forum, or just post the pictures here? How many pictures can I attach without having problems with it (like I did before)?
 
I saw something on the forum awhile back about using toilet bowl cleaner to remove bluing. I tried it and it worked great for the barrel I was doing. I didn’t leave it on long enough to see if it would cause any etching.
 
There is a product called CLR for removing calcium, lime and rust (hence the name) that will definitely remove heavy rust stains, and will certainly remove bluing, but this will definitely etch ferrous metal.
 
This is the look I want for a couple revolvers too. Getting a second Walker & a pair of Pietta Spiller & Burr kits after Christmas for this project. BUT, I plan to clear coat them after I get the look I want.
Clear coating is for something like candlesticks. Unless your plan is to hang on the wall someplace and never touching it can not imagine finishing a gun this way.
 
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