What did I do wrong with GPR

Rich said:

keep a small bore brush in your kit. When that happens, run the brush down into the breech clean it up then fire a cap to clear it.

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......And then look up the countless threads on this forum referencing what to do about a brush that is now stuck in the bore.

Col. Batguano said:

......And then look up the countless threads on this forum referencing what to do about a brush that is now stuck in the bore.

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The secret to not having the brush come off in the bore is to turn your rod to the right (clockwise) while its in the bore and it will keep the brush threaded on.

Bledfor Days said:

The secret to not having the brush come off in the bore is to turn your rod to the right (clockwise) while its in the bore and it will keep the brush threaded on.

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Unless it breaks. been there done that.

Regarding bore brushes and patent breeches: As mentioned above a smaller bore brush., if soundly constructed, will work. However, the main problem with the GPR and T/C is the factory ramrod, whose tips aren't pinned. (Don't ask how I know....!!) Drill and pin such ramrods to avoid a bigger problem and then use a quality range rod for such things. You won't regret it.

By all means drill and pin the tips on your factory furnished wooden ram rod. But also get a good working ram rod in brass or stainless steel with a bore protector for loading at the range and for cleaning.

I really couldn't say without measuring it. This evening I'll measure it in comparison to a factory one with some calipers. I keep one at factory fit to clean with so it fits tighter when scrubbing the bore, so I have a factory one to compare it to.
I should mention that the style of jag I like to use to turn down is not a button jag, it is the longer ones that the shaft is tapered on so the patch has room to squish down into that area when going down the bore.
I use 2.5" square patches for cleaning in my .54.

Sheppsan said:

In option #3 about how much do you think you removed from the jag?

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Ok, measured them up.
The factory size for my unaltered jag I have, all the bands measure .508”.
My turned down jag measures .454“ on the front band and the back band is .480”.
Be interesting what a standard .50 cal jag measures...perhaps it would work without having to turn one down?

*EDIT*
I just measured a factory .50 cal jag I have, all bands are .432”. Probably a touch small.
Finding a jag for a .52 Cal may be pretty close?

For my GPR, I made up an small air hose attachment with an end fitting that threads into the nipple hole. After cleaning, I blast some compressed air through to insure the channel is clear. Fine rifle BTW.

The two biggest problems when wiping between shots on a percussion gun are: #1 people leave the hammer down on the nipple, causing fowling to plug the nipple and #2 using too wet of patch and contaminating the powder.

Stop swabbing between shots. You’re pushing manure into the patent breech.
A proper load, powder, patch, ball, lube, you should be able to shoot all day without swabbing. You’ll need a wet lube.

renegadehunter said:

Ok, measured them up.
The factory size for my unaltered jag I have, all the bands measure .508”.
My turned down jag measures .454“ on the front band and the back band is .480”.
Be interesting what a standard .50 cal jag measures...perhaps it would work without having to turn one down?

*EDIT*
I just measured a factory .50 cal jag I have, all bands are .432”. Probably a touch small.
Finding a jag for a .52 Cal may be pretty close?

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Appreciate the info. Thanks!!

I've been shooting T/C & CVA rifles for 25 yrs and swabbed every shot with a damp, not wet patch, down & up and turn patch over and down & up again. No dry patch and no misfires as long as I remember to put powder in, I use a store bought jag.

Use a dampened wad of cloth or tow, tied into a stout cord. push it down loose w/ your rod, then collapse it w/ the rod end/jag, pulling the rod up w/ it. The rod/jag tends to expand it into the rifling & pull out the fouling. Repeat w/ a dry wad to dry the bore & you'rve a clean bore to shoot through.

Carbon 6 said:

Wet isn't an issue if you use MAP or alcohol, perhaps the issue is his "moose milk" which I suspect might contain some oil.
oil + powder = gunk

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Sorry if I sound kinda thick, but would you mind telling me exactly what is MAP? Thanks and blessings TDP

Good tips, thank you!!

Boomerang said:

The two biggest problems when wiping between shots on a percussion gun are: #1 people leave the hammer down on the nipple, causing fowling to plug the nipple and #2 using too wet of patch and contaminating the powder.

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TDP:
Murphys oil soap, Alchohol, Peroxide

I think MAP is an acronym for Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol, and Hydrogen Peroxide. I have never used it and I'm unsure of the proportions. I'm sure someone will see this and elaborate.

Notchy Bob

SmokepoleSam said:

TDP:
Murphys oil soap, Alchohol, Peroxide

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That's logical and down right easy, once you know Thanks . Blessings TDP

Notchy Bob said:

I think MAP is an acronym for Murphy's Oil Soap, Alcohol, and Hydrogen Peroxide. I have never used it and I'm unsure of the proportions. I'm sure someone will see this and elaborate.

Notchy Bob

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Thanks

Typing at the same time.
You are welcome TDP