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Oiling?

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Birchwood Casey Barricade my friend.

It’s an excellent product. Easily available in most outdoor retail shops and stores. Price isn’t overly expensive.

Most importantly, it does the job regardless of location and climate?

These Muzzleloader’s aren’t cheap. If there is a better product go for it by all means?

As for me? Barricade gets a check in all the boxes. Does exactly what it was designed to do.

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
I use hot water and a flush tube then apply Ballistol Oil. I have had bad results using WD-40 or Olive Oil in our humid climate of Kentucky. When I lived in Utah in a dry climate WD-40 was fine.
 
I like to use my patch lube on the bore when done cleaning. That will be either bear tallow or TOW Mink Oil. I shoot year round, so the gun never has to sit very long.

The advantage of using my patch lube in the bore is it doesn't run into the breech channel and I don't have to remove it all before shooting the gun again. I may run tow down the bore before shooting. Just one stroke with dry tow to remove any excess patch lube.

Basically, all my bore ever sees is water and patch lube. Simple.
 
Thank you everyone for the replies! Lots of good suggestions, Ballistol and Barricade seem to be the most common though.

...That said, if I was going to recommend any rust protection it would be Birchwood Casey Barricade.
Barricade dries after it is applied to the surface leaving a dry, rust protection that lasts for months. There is literally nothing to wipe off before shooting the gun so you don't even need to wipe the bore before you resume shooting. This is really good stuff and it is worth the trouble looking for it.

As many have been saying, Barricade seems to be the best option. Thanks Zonie, I'll probably go with that.
 
Anything that will keep free oxygen and water / water vapor away from the uncoated surface is what you want. Grease, oil, or something else will work. In theory, you could fill the tube with Nitrogen gas, then plug it and it would be fine. That's what they fill binoculars and rifle scopes with to protect them. In that case, it's mostly about the water vapor they don't want condensing on the lenses when it gets cold rather than a rust inhibitor.
 
New to the whole muzzleloading thing. Can't find a definite answer anywhere.

After cleaning the gun and letting the barrel fully dry, should it be oiled? I plan on oiling the lock after cleaning, but it's the bore I'm confused with. I see some people say absolutely yes, use bore butter etc, others say to leave it dry. Anyone able to point me in the right direction?
Oil it.
 
I also use Birchwood Casey Barricade either as the oil in the squeeze can or, most often, in the aerosol can. Used to use RIG---what a mess! I've never noticed Barricade interacting with any of my guns' finishes, but I still wipe off any Barricade that contacts wood.
 
:doh: Been using G96 for the past 30 years and have guns that have sat for up to two to four years also I always store ALL of my rifles with muzzle of barrel pointing down. This stops any oil from pooling in breach.

I've had G96 sit longer than that and protect. Pooling isn't a problem if you clean your gun with MAP or alcohol before shooting it. I point my muzzles up and use a folded patch between the nipple and hammer.
 
Update. They had pretty slim pickings. I was only able to find Traditions Wonderlube 1000 Plus. Anyone have experience with this? It says it protects from rust and seasons barrels.
 
I believe Traditions Wonderlube 1000 is about the same stuff as TC's Borebutter.
It works as a patch lube but it does not provide good rust protection and because one cannot "season" modern steel barrels, they discredit themselves for even implying that it does that.

If that is all you can get, look around for a modern gun oil that is meant to protect the gun from rust.
 
Here is an extensive testing of 46 products that claim to protect and lube firearms -- very interesting --
COMPREHENSIVE CORROSION TEST: 46 PRODUCTS COMPARED
<Comprehensive Corrosion Test: 46 Products Compared>

First, thank you ZUG for taking the time to post that corrosion test. That's the most comprehensive test I've seen but it was pretty severe conditions. I'm sure none of us subject our rifles to that much water, but I have had three different shotguns and rifles brought to me to take off the rust that had accumulated over many years by storing in an old barn. Even here in Montana where it's pretty darn dry they were just about a total disaster. The rifle was a 1892 Winchester, and I did get the action to actually work and the barrel didn't look too bad. It took many days of soaking in rust remover to even get anything to move. The shotguns were single shot 410's, and they were simple to tear apart and clean.. Rust is never a problem for me, any common sense is enough to clean and store most guns here where it's dry, and rust was never a problem. I can see the oil that I use would not work where you are, but I still want you to know, that was a very good report.
Squint
 
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