• This community needs YOUR help today. We rely 100% on Supporting Memberships to fund our efforts. With the ever increasing fees of everything, we need help. We need more Supporting Members, today. Please invest back into this community. I will ship a few decals too in addition to all the account perks you get.



    Sign up here: https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/account/upgrades

How long without cleaning?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I’ve left guns loaded for most of deer season before. Not my favorite thing to do but all was well. I bought an original Colt ‘51 Navy years ago that had been loaded since gosh knows when. Had to drill the powder out. The chambers were in decent shape. That said, it’s the residue that’s bad to leave for long. Give em a clean. Can’t go wrong with that.
 
I don't use a petroleum product on weapons I use with black powder, because it cakes so bad, so quick. I have seen petroleum products bind a new model Army on the third cylinder, just saying. Have no problem with the operator using what they choose. Through time I used olive oil but now it seems bore butter is my cleaning and shooting lube of choice. I carry and use the squirrel rifle often during the season and a 44 new army daily. I go over the finish with a sock turned inside out, slop the bore out with amount oil and swab. I have had a 44 loaded for over a year and worked flawlessly. It was kept in a controlled environment.
 
Does anyone read about what’s in the stuff they use any more or just go with what they heard from someone? You know, that guy.

Yes, I do.
Since regulations were relaxed and the (M) left off of the MSDS Now just SDS the material information is not as trust worthy.
Regardless, it's not that one uses a petroleum product but what they use and how they use it. That's what really matters unless you are trying to be as PC as possible.
I'll give you an example, G96 makes a great preservative and mechanism lubricant down to -50F , it smells like a gun oil should and cleans modern fouling fairly well, meaning it works for modern guns and muzzleloaders, but it makes a terrible patch lube at any temp. Bore Butter sucks on really hot days and below freezing. My homemade beeswax olive oil mix works at most any temp as a patch lube (if I mix it accordingly ) but it does not excel as a preservative like G96 does, nor is it as easy to apply.
It's not a my product is better than your product pissing match. It's an evaluation of best qualities per application. Everyone has different applications and criteria.
 
Been watching this thread with amusement and some degree of interest.

The original poster asked how long without cleaning?

Many other topics spun from OP’s question. Will add to be fair, that some of the responses were excellent even if it didn’t directly answer his original inquiry?

Not gonna get into my personal cleaning methods. Not gonna get into what products I use. Not gonna get into storage techniques. Not even gonna get into patch lubes or swabbing between shots ( yes or no ).

What works for me might not be your best option when it comes to all examples listed above? Humidity, location, personal habits, and most importantly, past personal experience and situations one has found themselves in?

Lastly, as for me? If I shot the muzzleloader I definitely clean and lubricate that day!

Prior to storage I go over everything interior and exterior using my personal standard cleaning and storage methods.

If I haven’t shot the muzzleloader it gets pulled out of storage periodically about every three months to be checked. Like other members here, I personally own more than a couple of Muzzleloader’s, so I keep a running log to keep track of what has been and what needs to be checked?

In closing, they’re an investment. They’re something that I’ll be handing down. Most importantly, they’re something that I really enjoy and am passionate about.

Respectfully, Cowboy
 
Yes, I do.
Since regulations were relaxed and the (M) left off of the MSDS Now just SDS the material information is not as trust worthy.
Regardless, it's not that one uses a petroleum product but what they use and how they use it. That's what really matters unless you are trying to be as PC as possible.
I'll give you an example, G96 makes a great preservative and mechanism lubricant down to -50F , it smells like a gun oil should and cleans modern fouling fairly well, meaning it works for modern guns and muzzleloaders, but it makes a terrible patch lube at any temp. Bore Butter sucks on really hot days and below freezing. My homemade beeswax olive oil mix works at most any temp as a patch lube (if I mix it accordingly ) but it does not excel as a preservative like G96 does, nor is it as easy to apply.
It's not a my product is better than your product pissing match. It's an evaluation of best qualities per application. Everyone has different applications and criteria.
No argument. My post was directed at at a Fluid Film is great vs evils of petroleum products post. Just used G96 as an example of the many products out there based on petroleum that have at times be touted as a non petroleum product and all the evil that petroleum brings to the blackpowder table.
 
No argument. My post was directed at at a Fluid Film is great vs evils of petroleum products post. Just used G96 as an example of the many products out there based on petroleum that have at times be touted as a non petroleum product and all the evil that petroleum brings to the blackpowder table.

G96 has always been a petroleum product, Fluid Film use to be lanolin based,( non-toxic and environmentally safe) Either it still is and the SDS uses synthetic equivalents or it has been synthesized. The price or demand for lanolin probably facilitated cheaper alternatives.
Both MSDS , SDS sheets and product labels like to trick people by listing ingredients by their chemical composition rather than their source.
For example:
If I bottled and sold urine as bore cleaner the SDS would read something like this instead of just listing urine.

Contains
Water95%
Urea2%
Sodium0.6%
Chloride0.6%
Sulfate0.18%
Potassium0.15%
Phosphate0.12%
Creatinine0.1%
Ammonia0.05%
Uric acid0.03%
Calcium0.015%
Magnesium0.01%

It would probably be labeled as "organic and "all natural" too" :)
 
G96 has always been a petroleum product, Fluid Film use to be lanolin based,( non-toxic and environmentally safe) Either it still is and the SDS uses synthetic equivalents or it has been synthesized. The price or demand for lanolin probably facilitated cheaper alternatives.
Both MSDS , SDS sheets and product labels like to trick people by listing ingredients by their chemical composition rather than their source.
For example:
If I bottled and sold urine as bore cleaner the SDS would read something like this instead of just listing urine.

Contains
Water95%
Urea2%
Sodium0.6%
Chloride0.6%
Sulfate0.18%
Potassium0.15%
Phosphate0.12%
Creatinine0.1%
Ammonia0.05%
Uric acid0.03%
Calcium0.015%
Magnesium0.01%

It would probably be labeled as "organic and "all natural" too" :)
Uric acid! I can't touch it then, gout!

I'll stick to my homebrew....
 
Sorry, I just have to interject a little anecdote about Bore Butter. When I bought my first long rifle, I was living in Vermont. I'd had lots of folks from the west coast (where I moved from) recommend it as well as folks in Vermont. One sunny winter day after a snow storm it looked like a good day to do some target practice. So I drove to an old quarry that was used by folks in the area I went to use Bore Butter on my patch but couldn't because it was frozen solid (was 11° out). I ended up using the bore butter as a hammer to help mount my targets and had to spit patch for my target practice. It's useless below freezing, so just don't use it.

I switched to Stumpy's Moose snot after getting that recipe here and since about 2004, it's the only thing I've used as a patch lube. Stumpy's Moose snot recipe is still available as a sticky note here on the forum.
Search under "Stumpkiller's Lube Recipes" and you'll find it as the second recipe listed.

Twisted_1in66 :thumb:
Dan
In Eastern Ontario it freezes hard as stone. Bore Butter is of little use in the winter
 
Petroleum oils and greases are excellent preservatives. There are few alternatives to petroleum. One is lanolin, which you can get as Fluid Film, I use lots of. The anti-petroleum thing seems to have started from guys using vaseline or motor oil on shooting patches. Apparently it can make a nasty tar type fouling. Non petroleum oils like veg oils and animal fats are poor preservatives. Some guys think they are being HC by using veg oil or fat. They were used long ago before petroleum was available. An exception is sperm whale oil, it is excellent. Refined bear oil is good stuff. You can duplicate sperm oil with ATF. Do not be afraid of petroleum based oils and greases for preserving the bore.
Checked my guns after five days high humidity and was not happy with what I found. The canola works great for outside surfaces but in the bores I was wiping out soft rust and needed to take some action. Years past when I checked things were not showing this amount so I decided to use some lanolin based Fluid Film and the bores wiped clean. I will have to see how well they do with this.
LBL
 
I decided to use some lanolin based Fluid Film and the bores wiped clean.
Where do you get lanolin based Fluid Film? No mention of lanolin on their MSDS. The stuff is petroleum based.
1595371485365.jpeg

http://www.fluid-film.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/07/SDS_Aerosol.pdf
 
Not as good as bear tallow. :)

Yeah, that doesn't sound too good. However, my Lakota friend uses it for everything. He's 72 and has a full head of hair. He says bear oil on the scalp grows hair. I can't argue with his results.
 
Back
Top