That's what's in my lock right now.
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hard frizzen
- Thread starter michael mcghee
- Start date
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That's what's in my lock right now.
Have you talked or written to Lyman?
Do you have side view of the lock while holding a flint with the frizzen down and the lock at halfcock?
I had an issue with a Lyman percussion lock about a year ago on a new rifle. The tumbler broke after about the 20th round. I called Lyman and they told me contact Dixon muzzleloading for warranty work. I sent Dixon’s the lock and they sent me a brand new lock right back within a few days.
michael mcghee
40 Cal
Then I’d stick with those agate flints. I’ve never had any luck with them. That one already looks beat all to hell. How many rounds? I wouldn’t buy anything. Call Dixon’s and see what they say. Let them replace or fix it if there is a problem.
michael mcghee
40 Cal
maybe 4 shots with that flint
michael mcghee
40 Cal
will dixon's fix it ??
Is your flint in the right way? It looks like you have the fatter end towards the frizzen.
Lyman has a reputation for a pretty good heat treat on their frizzens. Doubt it’s soft, but if it is they would replace it.
Why are you using washers in your setup? Agate flint in your photograph doesn’t look like it’s held correctly or the wrong size. Would still like to see a photograph of your lock from the side at halfcock, flint in place, and the frizzen down. Someone may notice something. Something like this photo of a Lyman lock with the Lyman factory agate flint in it.
Why are you using washers in your setup? Agate flint in your photograph doesn’t look like it’s held correctly or the wrong size. Would still like to see a photograph of your lock from the side at halfcock, flint in place, and the frizzen down. Someone may notice something. Something like this photo of a Lyman lock with the Lyman factory agate flint in it.
michael mcghee
40 Cal
the screw is to long hitting the stock
If there is something wrong they will fix it for free Or replace the lock if it’s a new gun and under warranty.
What screw ?
Don’t believe the screw is too long, rather it’s the flint or the way the flint is being held. Look at the photo of the lock I posted.
Greg Blackburn
40 Cal.
- Joined
- Sep 23, 2012
- Messages
- 900
- Reaction score
- 395
Does this "Dave" do this for fellow forum members?
I was breaking flints after only a few shots too with my Lyman because I thought beveled edge up was a better angle. Haven’t had a problem since I flipped it over bevel down.
Apparently every Lyman is different. My deer hunter likes the Flint upside down. To keep from having to use cut flints, I made an 8th inch steel plate that fits underneath of the Flint so that it elevates the Flint about that much and I can put it in bevel side down so I can use English flints. My frizzen seemed hard enough, and after I reface it, I case harden it, by of cours,e heating it up cherry red, case hardening it, and then quenching. I just use plain water and don't draw any temper back out. Perhaps it only works for me, but it works. I've used agate flints, but the cost didn't seem to justify continuing. Cheap English flints seem to work okay, I do have to re-Knapp the edge every so often with my brass hammer, and I think the only cure would probably be a good American-made lock.
Squint
Squint
michael mcghee
40 Cal
the jaw screw.. this is my older model deer stalker 54 cal
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michael mcghee
40 Cal
Col. Batguano
75 Cal.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2011
- Messages
- 5,034
- Reaction score
- 1,406
That's an easy one to miss, as is the leather on the top edge of the flint. I need to trim mine all the way back to the edge of the top jaw to keep it from nudging the frizzen as the flint is working its' way down there.. It's not an issue with a fresh flint, but as the flint wears and gets shorter, the leather can get in the way.
