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Philadelphia derringer

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Love the little Phillys.

Much like how some modern unmentionables (Charter Bulldog) became infamous for one bad apple using them, it seems the Philly derringer has always had a bad rap due to the Lincoln assassination. But, plenty of people used them for defensive purposes.
 
For those who don't know, there are special checkering files made to do the task.
There is the simple single blade V file and then, there are spaced files. Rather than having just one V shaped cutting file, they have two V's, spaced to give the distance between the grooves that the user wants the checkering to end up at.

There is also a file with one smooth V without teeth and one V with teeth. This file is used to follow a previously cut V and form a new V at the correct distance.

Great care must be given when using any of these files to checker a stock. Even with the spaced V' type file, if the V that is following a previously cut groove jumps out of it's groove, the second V file will cut a new, incorrect groove. Care also has to be given to follow the curvature of the stock, keeping the cutting edges square with the wood at the point where the file is cutting.

The most difficult part of checkering is forming the grooves where the checkering ends. While the last long groove that forms the end of the pattern is easy to make, the grooves that approach it at an angle are not. It's all too easy to accidentally run these grooves across the "end" and cut a small notch outside the edge of the pattern.
 
And the tighter the lines per inch, the easier it is to have them jump the grooves. How those guys at the British custom shops do 32 LPI continually amazes me!
 
Since I started this thread, and found a derringer, thanks Griz, I have been watching videos of same on the 'net. I see a lot of shooters that appear to stand the guns, and other single shot, similar muzzle loading pistols up on their "butts", balancing them with one hand, and ram the ball and patch home with the other hand. I wonder how many have broken the stock at the wrist doing that? I believe that I will hold mine in my left hand while I ram the ball and patch down the barrel!
 
Another thing, I have a couple of nice wooden boxes, actually cigar boxes that I think would make nice felt lined cases for small pistols, say like a Philadelphia derringer maybe. I'm thinking I'll make compartments for the gun, when I get it in hand, and a ball starter, cut to suit the pistol, as well as a few balls. Possibly some caps? Maybe a separate container for the caps? Anybody got such a box? I'd like to see a pic or three to get some ideas. Thanks.
 
I built this box for the .40 caliber muzzleloading pistol I made. It's a lot bigger than a box for a Deringer but it's a starter for ideas.

cased3.jpg

The wooden lid covers the area where you see the powder flask. The ramrod was made from a piece of a hickory ramrod with a "hanger screw" on one end to attach the glass drawer pull handle.
The finished gun ended up looking like this:

CASE2.jpg
 
That presentation box wirh a flask is giving me ideas. Oh, the derringer I showed way back when this thread first opened is the one that sometimes misfires.It looks like the hammer doesn't strike the nipple/cap square in the middle. A little tweeting and bending of the hammer should do it. However I am leery about bending the hammer. They don't bend real easy, they are more prone to breaking than bending, I've broken CVA hammers before! What is easier, bending the hammer or seating the whole lock a little deeper?
 
LOL! I had 2 of the old JUKAR Philadelphia Derringers in .45cal. I lost in the fire. Bought 1 for $10 and the other for $5 at a gunshop. Both shot fine.
 
My P.D. came today. Thanks griz44mag. I can now , as soon as my left thumb heals a bit from the surgery I had earlier today get to work on the box for it.
20200625_170623.jpg
20200625_151255.jpg
 
When able I think I would like to refinish the wood on my gun to a darker finish and would like very much for it to have checkering, like Booth's pistol. I can't imagine ever being brave enough to start carving on it myself. Perhaps I could find someone that would do it for me.
 
Checkering isn't difficult if you have good directions and follow them carefully. The problem with modern checketting tools is that they cut pointed tops, but old time checkering has flat tops.
 
Your right. The old time checkering was more of a decoration rather than being functional like it is today.
I used modern checkering files to do the checkering on my Fordney rifle and it's checkering has flat's on top of the diamonds. I did this by not cutting the checkering to "full depth" with the files.

The skip line basket weave checkering pattern is another story.

Fordbut.jpg
 
1593476516367.png

What I want to do is make my derringer look like Booth's gun. That means some checkering, darker finish, and apparently a butt cap. I'm looking for a pic of the back of the Booth gun to see what the butt cap/back strap looks like.
 
I can't believe the price they are asking for those kits now. I bought a kit in the '70s from Dixie...it was ~$19.00! Does tha date me?
Yes and me too. I almost bought one when twenty dollars was all I would have for fun stuff through a two week period after bills, work gas and normal weekly expenses.
I bought a ‘CVA trade knife instead. I think it was $9.
 
Would make a good carry gun, even today. One round with all its smoke, fire, and noise should be enough to scare off just about anyone... that is, even if you miss. A well placed round ball will end the threat.

Does anyone out there still carry a philly derringer?

The current Pedersoli Philly Derringers have god awful fake looking modern stamped checkering in a pattern totally unlike the originals.
 
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