Ditto what Zonie said about the fly. Also, if the fly isn't reinstalled correctly and you operate the lock, you will probably get to order some brand new internal parts for your lock. I suggest taking close-up pictures of the lock at each stage of disassembly (especially the position of the fly) to assist in the reassembly. Speaking from experience.
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Won't cock
- Thread starter mushka
- Start date
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Ditto what Zonie said about the fly. Also, if the fly isn't reinstalled correctly and you operate the lock, you will probably get to order some brand new internal parts for your lock. I suggest taking close-up pictures of the lock at each stage of disassembly (especially the position of the fly) to assist in the reassembly. Speaking from experience.
Tom Compton
54 Cal.
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2008
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In case it’s not posted earlier, first remove the lock from the gun and see if it works. If it does the problem is likely n the stock if not it’s in the lock.
I think your problem is with the sear nose and tumbler notch. They may be worn and need replacing or maybe just had too much gunk in the notch to allow engagement. If it does it again it is now a safety issue and the proper thing to do is replace both parts. I am attaching a photo of my sear and tumbler out of my .54 with a large siler lock. I built this rifle 20 years ago and have shot it a lot over the years with no problem. Then a couple of months ago it wouldn't stay cocked, then it wouldn't cock in the first place. Mr. Jim Chambers replaced both parts for me.
If it's dirt and gunk then that is the shooters fault and his responsibility to keep it clean. Every time I shoot one of my rifles I remove the lock and clean it in a sink. Run the water as hot as possible, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid on an old toothbrush and scrub it under the hot water. Be sure to run plenty of water over the tumbler area to loosen and remove any fouling hiding under the bridle. The lock should be as hot as possible from the hot water. Turn off the water and sling dry the lock a few times then dry all the water possible with a clean cloth or paper towel, then let the heat finish drying the lock. Next I take it outside and spray it thouroughly with WD-40 to help drive out any remaining moisture. With a paper towel pat dry all the WD-40 possible. Next I put a little grease where the mainspring rides the stirrup and where the frizzen cams on the spring. Then a drop of oil on the tumbler notch.
You do this and your lock will always be clean, lubricated and ready to go.
You can see from the photos that just a little wear can cause big problems.
If it's dirt and gunk then that is the shooters fault and his responsibility to keep it clean. Every time I shoot one of my rifles I remove the lock and clean it in a sink. Run the water as hot as possible, put a few drops of dishwashing liquid on an old toothbrush and scrub it under the hot water. Be sure to run plenty of water over the tumbler area to loosen and remove any fouling hiding under the bridle. The lock should be as hot as possible from the hot water. Turn off the water and sling dry the lock a few times then dry all the water possible with a clean cloth or paper towel, then let the heat finish drying the lock. Next I take it outside and spray it thouroughly with WD-40 to help drive out any remaining moisture. With a paper towel pat dry all the WD-40 possible. Next I put a little grease where the mainspring rides the stirrup and where the frizzen cams on the spring. Then a drop of oil on the tumbler notch.
You do this and your lock will always be clean, lubricated and ready to go.
You can see from the photos that just a little wear can cause big problems.
