Ramrod use

PineM...
Most shooter here strive to keep their groups touching at 50 yards.
Here's an example....some can almost one whole them.
Work up a load that groups tight.
try different lubes,patches, ball size,powder loads.
only change one of these components at a time while working up a load. Take good notes..recover spent patches. Shoot with rifle rested so you take away some of the operator error.
bring your camera mark up your targets take a picture..save it for reference.
I was working up a 85 yard zero hunting load.

Ever see a picture of a wooden rod through a palm?

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Yes, several over the years. I believe one was even posted here. Ain't pretty. :shocked2:

I think it is wrong to condemn wooden rods on account of operator error.

pinemarten said:

Since we are both hunters first, a focus was on a discussion of loads suitable for hunting and use of the wooden ramrod.

I want to develop a load that will work for loading out in the field with the wood rod (though I will use range rod for practice at home). Of course I want a load with good accuracy, but one that I don't have to get anxious over wacking down the barrel.

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Push - don't "Wack". If you have to pound on the rod something isn't right. You're abusing the implements - like hammering on a screwdriver. I only use wood rods (I don't own a range rod, just hickory rammers as the firearms carry in the thimbles). I don't use a short-starter, either.

Yes, I have to choke up to 4" to start the patched ball and push 8" or so at a time. That's how they are used. If you try and do it in one giant push (assuming you had arms that could do all 44" at once) the rod will snap eventually. So don't do that!

Don't put your palm over a rod to push. If you don't have the finger strength to push the load down it's time to switch to brains and figure out what's wrong. Don't start pounding on it. Your load's too tight (initially or due to fouling) or your lube isn't sufficient.

If you rely on a hard loading load you will eventually get one stuck. If it happens during a hunt you're S.O.L. So you may have a very accurate but impractical hunting load. I consider the need for a separate range rod to also be impractical for hunting. A steel or brass rod would be excessive weight. Hickory is strong enough if you're smart enough. ;-)

But then I have gone through many hickory blanks to select the ones I make into rammers. Like arrows - the grain has to be parallel, without or with minimal run-outs, or you don't have the right piece to begin with. Split is best.

I shoot my hunting load at all times - target shooting is practice for hunting and my sights are "fixed" once filed and drifted into place. I do pretty well accuracy wise but too a LONG time developing the optimal ball/patch/lube/powder combination. I also enjoy being able to shoot at least fife times before I need to spit wipe the bore. I went so far as to formulate my own lubes.

My .54 rifle has a 0.530" ball and a 0.018" patch (0.017" to 0.018" with the material variation). Shoots as well as my eyeballs allow.

22fowl said:

Ever see a picture of a wooden rod through a palm?

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I've seen people hit themselves in the thumb with a hammer. But I don't think a metal handled hammer instead of a wood handle would have prevented that. ;-)

Kerosene.

I soak ramrods in pcv pipe in kerosene. Once I forgot about 3 for a several years.
.. I don't remember where first read of this practice to make them stout? ? ?

+1 for me. I am with you on this Stumpkiller. Nothing like a good piece if hickory. Have accidentally shot a couple downrange but never have broken one. :thumbsup:

Dave

I'm one of those who stuck the edge of my hand with a .32 caliber wooden rod. Pretty nasty wound, and it didn't occur because I was too far up the rod. If I had been, the injury would have been much worse.

I won't use a wooden rod on that rifle any more. I've got one for looks under the barrel, but I won't use it. I don't trust such a small diameter of wood.

In fact, I don't trust wooden rods except in the large diameters. I have a 3/8" ramin rod, but haven't used it. I fully trust it, though.

Stumpkiller said:

I've seen people hit themselves in the thumb with a hammer. But I don't think a metal handled hammer instead of a wood handle would have prevented that. ;-)

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Well said.

I live a high risk life and drink lots of McDonalds coffee too, but I've never managed to dump any in my lap, even with $millions up for grabs.

Donny said:

Kerosene.

I soak ramrods in pcv pipe in kerosene. Once I forgot about 3 for a several years.
.. I don't remember where first read of this practice to make them stout? ? ?

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The practice was to soak ramrods in coal oil.

Kerosene used to be derived from coal but around the time of the Civil War it became a petroleum refining byproduct - but it is really very different from the coal oil our ancestors used. There was a lot more "goo" in it and kerosene was for outdoor while whale oil was indoor lighting.

Be interesting to compare the two if you could find some true coal oil.

I'll agree that as the diameter of the rod decreases the likelihood of breaking it, increases.
But, I've also shut my finger in a door before and knew full well it wasn't the doors fault.

colorado clyde said:

I think it is wrong to condemn wooden rods on account of operator error.

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When it comes to safety I'll reccomend the safest thing available. Yes, I feel deep sadness for those poor, ignored wood rods also. But, they will get over it. :wink:

Stumpkiller said:

Donny said:

Kerosene.

I soak ramrods in pcv pipe in kerosene. Once I forgot about 3 for a several years.
.. I don't remember where first read of this practice to make them stout? ? ?

Click to expand...

The practice was to soak ramrods in coal oil.

Kerosene used to be derived from coal but around the time of the Civil War it became a petroleum refining byproduct - but it is really very different from the coal oil our ancestors used. There was a lot more "goo" in it and kerosene was for outdoor while whale oil was indoor lighting.

Be interesting to compare the two if you could find some true coal oil.

Click to expand...

Kerosene will dry out and become essentially useless. Back when I did use wood rods regularly, about 99 years ago, I soaked in lemon oil. Seemed to work OK. And, I bought rods at Friendship who pressure impregnated his with parafin (two r's? parrafin? Oh, well.) Worked just fine I still have a couple but no longer use.

...I did get a stainless range rod and have been using that and to clean the gun (has bore guide). I would like to slowly get comfortable using the wood rod as I develop a load that moves nicely down the barrel. Being new to this, I didn't know how much force it was supposed to take, so the combo I started with seemed like it would be very hard to push down with anything but a pool stick and a mallet (just kidding!). I'll cut down on the patch diameter and keep the ball to .490 for now. I have made my own wood arrows for my longbow since I was about 11. I cut from local seasoned birch and follow the grain very carefully. Any slight grain run-off is placed in such a way that a break will send the longer sharp section of arrow upward and not into your bow hand. I suppose with wood ramrods it must come down to shorter strokes to eliminate flexing and using a stick with little or no grain run off.
Do the barrels 'break in' or somehow accept tighter loads over time? If so,what is the expected degree of change in ball size to get the same fit and what is the mechanism of the 'break in' (what is going on that would make a new barrel go from being snug with a .490 and .02 greased patch to eventually having the same fit with a .495 and .02 patch? Is it smoothing out of manufacture's rifling burs or something, 'seasoning'of the barrel, something else?

Daniel

It will take many, many rounds thru that barrel before it's broken in. You can speed up the process by running some 0000 steel wool or abrasive pad through it, but I really don't think it's necessary. Use a smaller ball or patch thickness, make smoke and have lots of fun. I only have 2 or 3 hundred rounds through my Getz and am happy with the accuracy. I use a .535 ball, .010 muslin patch with mink oil, and 90 grs 3F.

As long as you’ve got a straight-grained hickory rod (or ash or a few others some have had success with) and you’re not bending way above the muzzle, it should last a life time. I’m like you, I much prefer to load the gun as it would have been loaded 200 years ago. It’s not much of a risk when using the right rod in the right manner (I’d argue we do quite a bit more risky things in life which are entirely avoidable- yet we consider them reasonable risks). We shoot firearms, the technology of which is 200 out-of-date and sends a burst of flame off right by our face and yet people are constantly trying to modernize the process. It’s not wrong, just not my preference.

I think you’ll find that there will be very little change to your barrel’s preferences after the initial “break in.” Your initial shooting and cleaning should just be smoothing out some rough spots in the bore- which should shoot great for thousands of rounds before any discernable sign of change. Personally, I don’t even measure patches. I go by feel and tightness of the weave. I have a .54 which shoots great with .525 ball and a thicker patch. Some folks like a much tighter load, but I can see no difference in that particular gun. I’ve found that smaller balls and thicker patches load easier and for some folks shoot about the same and sometimes better than with tighter loads. Mileage will vary.

Kerosene will dry out and become essentially useless. Back when I did use wood rods regularly, about 99 years ago, I soaked in lemon oil. Seemed to work OK. And, I bought rods at Friendship who pressure impregnated his with parafin (two r's? parrafin? Oh, well.)

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The lemon oil information is interesting.
I wonder if the paraffin based "lamp oil" would work, or perhaps that has too much kerosene. Perhaps mineral oil?

:hmm:

LD

Paraffin is another word for kerosene.

I don't see how it would make a ramrod stronger, but I've heard that for a long time. What it would seem to do is make it water-resistant. Lemon oil on my gunstock drew yellow jackets like a magnet to the smell.

Soaking ramrods in kerosene is marvelously effective at making the ramrod smell like kerosene.

I have heard it makes the wood more flexible. The rod if over stressed
will bend instead of snapping.