How I pour a pewter knife bolster

This is how I go about it;
I first attach my handle material to the tang. I then mark off the length of the bolster that I want with tape. Next I reduce the area with file to permit the pewter material to fill in the reduced area. I wrap manila folder paper around the handle to form a dam to allow for excess pewter to flow around the knife handle and secure with tape & cord to prevent leakage. I secure the knife in a vise with the blade up and proceed to melt the pewter. When the pewter is melted I flux the melt then pour it into the paper dam. When cooled I remove the paper dam and inspect for voids ”“ fill them if necessary. Shape pewter & handle material using sanding wheel and sandpaper ”“ polish ”“ done.
Note this is also my way to pour muzzle caps except I drill cross holes for the pewter to “lock” into.

That looks good. I like the way the knife turned out and the shape of the blade. :thumbsup:

now I know how to due it. do you know of anyone selling less than a pound of pewter.

On the Pewter? Is lead-free solder the same?

The "pewter" that I used for this bolster was purchased from Track of the Wolf. I have bearing babbet metal that I have used. I have used linotype also. Pure lead can be used but it is too soft and discolors -- I like my bolsters to look like nickel (shinny). Hope this helps :v .

I've read of the technique of using a paper dam, and always wondered why the paper didn't burn. I guess that's no concern at all. Thanks for posting the tutorial.

looks great! thanks for the post :grin: :hatsoff:

I think it might be similar to boiling water in a wax paper pail over a fire, in any event heavy paper seems to work fine.

And...mea culpa time. Like everything in life pouring a pewter bolster takes a time or two to learn. My first attempt didn't come out that good. I just used the lead free solder but I wasn't certain it was correct- melts at 430 degrees which is good.

rj morrison said:

now I know how to due it. do you know of anyone selling less than a pound of pewter.

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Why not try a local Trift store. $.50 for a old pewter cup or goblet. Cut it up and yer in business...

Looks good. The toughest part for me is filing/sanding the front edge of the bolster without scratching the blade. GW

use a file with a safe edge ( no teeth)

YUP -- if you look close I have touched the intersection between the blade & bolster with the grinding belt and tried to buff it to blend. I use a thick tape on the blade to mitigate the contact as my eyes are not that sharp anymore. I may try to clamp 1/16" aluminum sheet to both sides of the blade to prevent contact of the grinding belt or maybe not :grin: Practice, practice, practice :wink: .

Zug, that's a really clever trick ... thanks! ... gotta remember that one!
:grin: :hatsoff:

You have your techique down pat and ended up with a fine knife. :thumbsup:
Do you think zinc would be suitable material for that purpose?

Good question -- don't know :idunno: --- the metal that I use melts at a low temp and does not scorch the handle material (as long as I don't overheat it). Zinc melts at a higher temp then lead and the "pewter" melts at a bit lower then lead-(my experience so far). All I can say is - try it :hmm: .

rj morrison said:

now I know how to due it. do you know of anyone selling less than a pound of pewter.

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Cheap pewter can be found at flea markets, thrift store etc. Less, usually, than a buck a pound.

Very cool! Thank you for the tutorial!

Dave, pewter has no exact formula, and can be 50% lead and still be legally sold as pewter. 95/5 lead free plumbers solder is as good as any. There used to be a grade of plumbers solder that had a little nickel in it. I have some, but the steel spool has rusted, and now I can't tell which is which among the rest. It stayed bright longer, and was a little bit harder and wear resistant.

I would caution those who buy pewter from thrift shops, junk stores, ect. Some of the old pewter pieces can be worth a lot more than the value of the pewter. It is a good idea to check before destroying a possibly valuable antique.