I'm looking at taking a flintlock handgun and drilling the flash hole. Tap an make two inserts, one with a flash hole for flint. The other a drum and nipple for caps. Change the hammer for caps. I want to be able to change back and forth. Have looked at the gun and think it is doable. I am open to any suggestions or reasons to or not to try. Worst case I can put it back like it was. Thanks for suggestions or remarks good or bad.
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flint to cap back to flint?
- Thread starter theoldredneck
- Start date
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It's doable but I think after it is changed back and forth a few times, the hammer/cock will loosen up a lot.
Normally, the hammer or cock fits onto the tumbler with a slight press fit. That keeps it from moving around when the gun is fired so it lasts a long time.
If the hammer and cock are slip fit to the square drive on the tumbler, it will move every time the gun is cocked and fired.
That will soon wear the hole oversize making the fit sloppy.
Another problem is the percussion version.
The touch hole can be a ways off of a perfect location and it will work for a flintlock fine.
The hole for the percussion drum on the other hand has to be in exactly the right position for the hammer to align with the nipple the way it needs to do.
Just things to ponder before you start cutting and drilling stuff.
Normally, the hammer or cock fits onto the tumbler with a slight press fit. That keeps it from moving around when the gun is fired so it lasts a long time.
If the hammer and cock are slip fit to the square drive on the tumbler, it will move every time the gun is cocked and fired.
That will soon wear the hole oversize making the fit sloppy.
Another problem is the percussion version.
The touch hole can be a ways off of a perfect location and it will work for a flintlock fine.
The hole for the percussion drum on the other hand has to be in exactly the right position for the hammer to align with the nipple the way it needs to do.
Just things to ponder before you start cutting and drilling stuff.
Thanks, that is why I ask. Better to learn from others that try to reinvent a wheel that works. I sort of figured that there was a reason it wasn't on the market already as an option.
galamb
58 Cal.
I built one rifle that was "convertible" but did it as follows:
Hooked breeches (plural) - Hawken "flint" style from Pete Allan.
Two barrels. One with a drum in the plug, the other a touch hole liner.
Two locks (one flint, one percussion - Chambers Golden Age locks - there are a "few" that are drop in's in the flint/cap flavours).
You build the percussion first since support for the drum is paramount to ensuring you don't snap a drum off flush with the barrel (when an unsupported drum is repeatedly whacked with the hammer).
Then the second barrel is fitted, the lock is "swapped out" and the touch hole is drilled (and tapped if a liner is to be installed).
Inevitably the rifle is rarely "converted" - too much like work.
Better option is two rifles (or pistols) unless you want a lower cost option for two different calibers - say a 45 and 54 etc.
But the cost for the "single" gun is high - 2 barrels, 2 locks, 2 breech plugs - only a couple hundred bucks shy of a complete second gun.
Also, the hammer clearance is a little different on the lock panel between the locks, so if you go that route it's best to select a "conversion lock" (Chamber GA, L&R Classic) that is made to look like a converted flint (some of the pan/fence remains) or it leaves the lock panel looking "wrong" when you have the percussion set-up.
Hooked breeches (plural) - Hawken "flint" style from Pete Allan.
Two barrels. One with a drum in the plug, the other a touch hole liner.
Two locks (one flint, one percussion - Chambers Golden Age locks - there are a "few" that are drop in's in the flint/cap flavours).
You build the percussion first since support for the drum is paramount to ensuring you don't snap a drum off flush with the barrel (when an unsupported drum is repeatedly whacked with the hammer).
Then the second barrel is fitted, the lock is "swapped out" and the touch hole is drilled (and tapped if a liner is to be installed).
Inevitably the rifle is rarely "converted" - too much like work.
Better option is two rifles (or pistols) unless you want a lower cost option for two different calibers - say a 45 and 54 etc.
But the cost for the "single" gun is high - 2 barrels, 2 locks, 2 breech plugs - only a couple hundred bucks shy of a complete second gun.
Also, the hammer clearance is a little different on the lock panel between the locks, so if you go that route it's best to select a "conversion lock" (Chamber GA, L&R Classic) that is made to look like a converted flint (some of the pan/fence remains) or it leaves the lock panel looking "wrong" when you have the percussion set-up.
Pete G
76 Cal.
The idea of being able to switch from cap to flint sounds like a lot better idea than it really is. Go with either one or the other and keep it that way.
Had bought a flintlock handgun cheap to play with that needed work. After I got it shooting was looking at differences between it and a cap lock. Took some measurements and before making modifications I ask. The first reply told me what I needed to know and so I'm happy with it as flint. I'm old enough now to ask questions and listen to those with experience. That is what is great about this forum. The people here have the knowledge and experience, don't mind answering us new comers dumb questions. When I converted a double to a cargo gun every thing I needed someone pointed me to. Y'all are a great bunch and a super forum. Thanks again
