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1Poet

Pilgrim
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I am new here and love the friendly atmosphere. I certainly don't want to be considered a heretic, especially this early, but has anyone considered using Duracote on a barrel for corrosion resistance? :confused: They have colors that might be close to historically correct and the product would stop a continuing problem with old style guns, mainly rust on the barrel. I say this only because I respect this group :bow: and want honest and hopefully non-hostile answers :surrender: . Please forgive my newby-ness and I will await your replies (in my bombproof bunker) :surrender: :surrender:
 
Rust and patina gives guns that used look. Several of my guns never had any bluing or browning and were left in the white. After a number of years of regular use they are now a beautiful steel gray that can't be faked.

Most of us are not too upset by patina on our guns. A little oil and a little rubbing will take care of most of the rust/crud/dirt. The only thing that we really take care of is the inside of the barrel and the inside of the lock.

Part of the fun of shooting weapons that have been obsolete since before the breechloaders were invented is seeing what a piece looks like after a few years of honest use.

BTW, welcome to the forum.
 
I'm not a totally HC/PC guy - I bed all my barrels.

Having said that I see Duracote as one of those products that is available because "we have the technology", not because there was any particular need for it (although the advertisers will tell you "why you need it").

I have seen more than a few original Ohio rifles built in the mid 1800's. It was the "style" for the builders there to leave the barrels "in the white" - no treatment - no rust blue/brown, no other finish, nada - just polished metal.

Some 200 years later the barrels are "just fine".

They survived all that time, the first years of their life probably in conditions far more severe than any modern built gun would see and the barrels survived nicely, still look practically new, without "Duracote" or any other modern miracle.

So my advice would be - go for it if you think it's "cool" and forget the HC/PC part - nothing we shoot today would withstand great scrutiny anyhow, but if you think that the cost will somehow "save your rifle", I would save your money - it solves a problem that doesn't exist - at least with a personal rifle that will live its life indoors when not in use.
 
Well said Graham,
It's a fix for a problem that doesn't exist.

Just clean the gun 1poet and care for it,,
No rust, No problem. :wink:
:v
 
There is a fairly early historical precedent.

A handbook for riflemen; containing the first principles of military discipline, founded on rational method, intended to explain in a familiar and practical manner, the discipline and duties of rifle corps: conformable to the system established for the United States military force, and the latest improvements in the modern art of war, by William Duane, 1812

It must be obvious that the rifle barrel should not be bright; that the equipments of riflemen should be free from everything that is glittering or of a striking color, must be perceived upon every consideration of their duties. Great care, however, must be taken, in the frequent inspection of the rifle, to guard against any neglect of keeping it in order, when it has been browned, greened or blacked.
The barrel may be secured against external rust, by the following means”¦ If it be intended to give the barrel a clean black color, take half an ounce of camphor, a gill of oil of turpentine, a gill of Florence oil, and a clean earthen cup, simmer them over a fire without flame, until the whole shall be incorporated, and in an uniform liquid state, putting the camphor in last; add to this liquid an ounce of clean white bees wax, and melt the whole, adding a little sweet oil or turpentine to preserve its consistency to the state of honey, add an ounce of powdered black lead to this composition, and the barrel of the rifle being perfectly clean, the composition may be put on like paint, very thin, laid by to dry, and polished to a smooth surface.
To give the barrel a red or brown color, add red lead or ochre, instead of black lead.
To make the barrel green, add verdigrease, which must be first ground in oil; to make the barrel blue, pulverised Prussian blue.
The barrel may be preserved bright and safe from rust by this varnish, without adding any color to it; but it must be laid on very thin, and with great care; and the lock plate and parts open to the air, may be protected from rust by this camphor varnish.
Spence
 
George said:
There is a fairly early historical precedent.

A handbook for riflemen; containing the first principles of military discipline, founded on rational method, intended to explain in a familiar and practical manner, the discipline and duties of rifle corps: conformable to the system established for the United States military force, and the latest improvements in the modern art of war, by William Duane, 1812

It must be obvious that the rifle barrel should not be bright; that the equipments of riflemen should be free from everything that is glittering or of a striking color, must be perceived upon every consideration of their duties. Great care, however, must be taken, in the frequent inspection of the rifle, to guard against any neglect of keeping it in order, when it has been browned, greened or blacked.
The barrel may be secured against external rust, by the following means”¦ If it be intended to give the barrel a clean black color, take half an ounce of camphor, a gill of oil of turpentine, a gill of Florence oil, and a clean earthen cup, simmer them over a fire without flame, until the whole shall be incorporated, and in an uniform liquid state, putting the camphor in last; add to this liquid an ounce of clean white bees wax, and melt the whole, adding a little sweet oil or turpentine to preserve its consistency to the state of honey, add an ounce of powdered black lead to this composition, and the barrel of the rifle being perfectly clean, the composition may be put on like paint, very thin, laid by to dry, and polished to a smooth surface.
To give the barrel a red or brown color, add red lead or ochre, instead of black lead.
To make the barrel green, add verdigrease, which must be first ground in oil; to make the barrel blue, pulverised Prussian blue.
The barrel may be preserved bright and safe from rust by this varnish, without adding any color to it; but it must be laid on very thin, and with great care; and the lock plate and parts open to the air, may be protected from rust by this camphor varnish.
Spence

Ok ok Spence :grin: now find me some old literature on how to keep the Mrs happy :haha:

B :hatsoff:
 
Britsmoothy said:
Ok ok Spence :grin: now find me some old literature on how to keep the Mrs happy :haha: B :hatsoff:
I think the old boys didn't concern themselves with that idea, Brits. Where'd we go wrong? :haha: :haha:

Spence
 
Open your mind and heart to all that is muzzleloader.....spend a couple of years here reading posts. bathe yourself in the wonders of our history...and ....maybee ...just...maybee........your perception will change :v


Do not now what you may regret later.
 
Regardless of coating or material built with, guns will rust if not cared for properly.

Clean the gun well and use a lint free cloth to clean the gun. paper towels put fine scratches on the bluing, much like someone who waxes and clean their cars a lot have a ton of those little fine scratches.

Blackpowder residue rusts metal. Clean all exposed surfaces. Oil secreted by your skin corrodes metal. Wipe down the gun after handling it.

If the gun has a hooked tang, why bother. You still need to clean the gun. Remove the barrel, clean the barrel inside and out, and wipe down the tang, lock, and other metal surfaces with a wet rag, then oil.
 
Well, looks like the original replies got deleted. My reply was basically that, although keeping a "white" barrel looking good is fairly easy (or just allow it to develop a patina over time), the Plum Brown DuraCoat might actually look pretty decent on a smoothbore ML, giving the old "browned" appearance but with increased durability. I'd also finish the lock to match (except the frizzen, assuming it's a flinter). :thumbsup:
 
Whether or not you use Duracoat on your rifle is completely up to you. It is, afterall, your rifle. However, if you plan to do any reenacting you will run into problems with the purely HC/PC crowd. Otherwise, it is your decision as to whether or not you coat your rifle with Duracoat. It may not be my personal choice, but if it looks good to you and works for you, it is right...... for you.
 
I'm more concerned with keeping rust out of the bore than a bit of rust on the outside (which helps give that wonderful patina of age).
 
My advise would be if adding duracoat would induce a strong desire to take the gun out and shoot every day then do so.
I have a 40 cal that would make a large portion of this crowd spew fire and brimstone, but I love it. My wife has said that I spend more time holding it than her.
 
My honest answer is that you will not find many customers for Duracoat on a traditional forum. Duracoating a muzzleloader is pretty much the opposite of “traditional”. Let’s face it you’re talking about “painting “the barrel. It is somewhat popular with modern muzzleloaders as are plastic stocks and scopes, but we don’t discuss that here.
I myself first ask the question why you would want to Duracoat a ML. when I look at this sentence.
"They have colors that might be close to historically correct and the product would stop a continuing problem with old style guns, mainly rust on the barrel".
It is easy to see that you are misled by false perceptions because nothing in that sentence is correct or accurate.
A well cleaned and properly cared for ML will be just as rust free as a Duracoated one.
“Traditional “is a
Time in history
A mindset
And a style. :v
 
I was just looking at the DuraCoat site, and discovered they also have a satin clear version. That might be a good way to go too, assuming you decide to go through with it. Looks like it would give the metal parts sort of a bead blasted look. :hmm:
 
If you are looking at a no effort finish, why not just paint the barrel with brown or black Rustoleum? Didn't some muskets for use on ships get a coat of oil based paint on the outside of the barrel? Gotta be cheaper than Durakote. I thought Durakote and Cerakote were for actual combat environments plus the added heat one gets on a modern barrel in combat. Neither apply to flinters or caplocks, so Rustoleum should be a viable option?

LD
 
Loyalist Dave said:
Didn't some muskets for use on ships get a coat of oil based paint on the outside of the barrel?

I can't provide any references, but I do recall hearing about some sea service guns being painted black or "Jappaned" (lamp black [carbon soot], oil of some kind, and some other ingredients that I don't recall). :hmm:
 
Tastier than Rustoleum - bacon. Had an old Rifle Magazine article wherein the author tried his grandpa's recipe. Fix you some low sodium bacon and strain the grease. Apply to clean barrel and bake in the oven. After a few applications I guess it seasons it much like cast iron cookware. Easy touch up, too. Just fry more bacon. I've never tried this so I can't say what it smells like or if it softens when the barrel gets hot. Sounds authentic, though. OK, OK.....I know......it ain't kosher. ;-)
 

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