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jamesthomas

70 Cal.
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I didn't what want to hijack the Chambers Lancaster Build, But nchawkeye gave very good advice about buying those 2 books. My brother has #1 and it eased my mind about using an English lock on my A. Figthorn Build because on page 150 it shows a Reading Profile rifle with a English lock on it, and on the ALR after a search I found a Lenard Reedy rifle with a English lock on it. Since I am a lefty I'm going to put a Durs Egg lock on mine. I want to be different because most EVERYBODY wills put a Siler lock on it and I don't like the thin bolster on them. If I hadn't broke my bank account at Tip Cutis's place Monday I would have bought #1 myself.
 
The Durs Egg is a post rev-war style English lock. The Silers are German. Both are excellent locks! They're entirely different in style and period. Damn shame we can't get more lefthand choices as my son is lefthanded. All we can do is the best we can!! I've used the L&R Manton on his rifles.
 
A Siler can also be modified to look more English. Since the pan is detachable it can be re contoured and the molding at the rear of the lockplate can be filed off, along with rounding the point of the plate itself.
 
Next time you go by Tip's, look at his MG locks he has there. The bolster is how ALL locks
should be. The locks do show promise...... but don't have the Chambers warranty.

Here is a Modified Siler I am going to use on a LH Tenn, if I ever get time to build the dang thing.
Had the barrel in the stock & stock roughed out for 2 yrs & still have not gotten to it. :slap:



Left lock is a modified Chambers Late Ketland. The Right lock is a modified Chambers LH Siler.
I will probably pull that hammer & build it up to have a lil more belly than it has right now.

Keith Lisle
 
That looks pretty good there Keith.

Was that modified from an "off the shelf" Siler or one of the builders versions with the rectangular plate you shape entirely yourself?
 
I don't like the thin bolster on the Siler locks.

Is it the mainspring running into the barrel that causes the dislike or the angle from your lockplate to tang/barrel flat?

Curious cause I finally came to realize the relationship between lock hieght/wrist architecture and wood to barrel flat blending and bolster thickness and have been trying to sort out what the limitation of a large siler are.

Birddog would your modification to the Large Siler make it closer to correct for a NW tradegun? If a guy could not add metal to the hammer would simply rounding the flat into the edge (i.e rounding the hard angle) be better then leaving it as is?
 
Nice work. The rounded tail on the Siler looks good and I see you also rounded off the Germanic, faceted pan. The Late Ketland as you have it, would be my choice for a Southern LR. Now all you gotta do is "get a goin". ....Fred
 
Part of it is the mainspring under the barrel. The thin bolster also lets the lock screw strip out easier than having a thicker bolster. Right now I need to get a new lock plate for the Siler I have on my .50 cal. because one of the lock screws is stripped and the other one is close. I have 10/32 screws so I can't go up. Next time I'll do 8/32 screws, that way if they strip out I can go up to 10/32 ones.
 
Well.... :hmm: I don't understand how the lock screw are stripping..... I have used dozens of Silers...... in fact, I have never had a lock screw strip out on any of my rifles or one I have built.
BUT, when I fit a lock in the inlet against the barrel ? I work that fit & inlet until I cannot get a .001" feeler gauge between the barrel & the pan, so it takes no torque to hold the lock in place. I take the lock off, put it back & just snug the screws down. :idunno:

You should be able to weld up the bolster with a wire welder, then heat it red hot & let it air cool, then redrill & tap it.

I don't know what taps you are using, but there are dif ones that make tighter threads... (thread pitch is dif.) and also the hole size is critical as well, to get full threads.

Keith Lisle
 
galamb said:
That looks pretty good there Keith.

Was that modified from an "off the shelf" Siler or one of the builders versions with the rectangular plate you shape entirely yourself?

It was a plate. I took a Ketland apart & laid it over it & got the general shape I wanted, then worked it from there. I have changed my mind back & forth umpteen times on welding more belly into the hammer. Guess I will make up my mind for sure when I get to the rifle.

Keith Lisle
 
Best thing I have found on locks, when I want to compare them. Take a TOW catalog, copy the Full Size photos of the locks & cut them out with scissors. Then you can lay one lock over the other & etc., and actually SEE what will change to she & where the internals are & etc.


Possibly you can do this on the lock you wish to use. :idunno: Allot of time a lock will appear to work, but when you turn it over & see the internals, it just don't work out. But the photos out of the catalog have always worked well for me, to give me ideas of what to use on what.

Keith Lisle
 
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