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Loading Block Question

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NEW222

40 Cal.
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Hi there. I was just wondering if someone would be able to tell what thickness is best suited for a loading block, and what diameter holes are best drilled in a loading block for a 50 cal. PRB? And lastly, is there such a thing as a loading block for a conical bullet? Thank you.
 
Good luck with your project. I was gonna make one myself but got lazy and just ordered one from totw. :haha:
 
I like them about 3/8" thick. That allows the ball to protrude and self align in the muzzle, and since it is a ball, there is only so much contact surface in the hole anyway.
 
When I saw the pretty wood that member 'skunkskinner' got his hands on, I had to have him make a curved one for me in .58cal.

 
I have a planer and make blocks just a hair thicker than the diameter of the ball. There are no set standards that I know of. Blocks for elongated projectiles most likely have existed and may still be used by some.
Sorry to be vague, but this is a 'do yer own thang' game. No real standards.
 
FWIW, I prefer to make my initial hole for the ball a hair undersize and file to fit my ball/patch combo. Also I use a board slightly thicker than the diameter of the ball and use a forstner bit slightly larger than the muzzle to create a shallow flat bottomed countersink that fits the muzzle for easy positioning.
 
I like my loading blocks thinner than the diameter of the ball so that lining up the ball with the bore is easier.





Spence
 
Problem with a thin board is the "gooey" is out there to rub on everything and for everything to get all over it. SOMEtimes that won't matter...
 
Yes, I never let a loading block rattle around in the bottom of my shot bag to gather grit and grime. I either slip it into a pocket inside the bag or tie it to a strap so it's suspended in the bag. That's why mine have a lanyard. I don't think having a thicker board will completely prevent the ball collecting grit.

I rarely use loading block at all, these days, since most of my shooting is done with a smoothbore, and many times with historic wadding, no patch.

Spence
 
Alden said:
Problem with a thin board is the "gooey" is out there to rub on everything and for everything to get all over it. SOMEtimes that won't matter...
Click to expand...


This is why I make mine on the thick side, this is 1/2" and is made for a .62


IMG_3705.jpg
 
Alden said:
Problem with a thin board is the "gooey" is out there to rub on everything and for everything to get all over it. SOMEtimes that won't matter...
Click to expand...
Really can be a problem with any thickness wood as long as dirt/debris can access lubed patch material.
I use little slip on suede sleeves like this:

 
I just used one of my regular ball and patch combinations that I shoot ,pulled some of my drill bits out close to that size and cut some holes in a block of wood and tried the fit.
Made a dandy one out of delrin for a friend for Christmas. I cut a counter bore on the underside that fit his guns muzzle so it made each block hole self aligning with his bore.
Don't have a picture to show but it would work with hard wood as well. Mike D.
 
Ok, thank you all again. If you do not mind, do I need a special drill bit for the holes, or would my metal cutting bit work ok? Sorry for all the questions.
 
New222 said:
do I need a special drill bit for the holes, or would my metal cutting bit work ok? Sorry for all the questions.
Click to expand...

Metal bits will work, you'll want to sneak up on final drill size to minimize the tear out associated with them, start several sizes smaller than finished size.

I used a forstner bit for the .62 as it just happens to correspond with 5/8"
 

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