Glass bedding a ML ??

What can you all tell me about glass bedding a ML? I have heard the competitve shooters do it. I've done it on modern rifles, but never thought of doing it to a ML before. Good idea or not??

I once cracked the stock of my Hawkins .58 badly trying to get a wedge out. Went to the gunsmith buddy and he quoted me a LOT of money to custom cut and build me a new one of black walnut (we have a few here) and I left it with him. He then repaired the stock (cant hardly see the repair), refinished and glass bedded. Charged me jug of crown royale (which I had to force him to accept), said he hated to charge so much (more than the gun would have been worth) for the stock job and wanted to offer this first. It now shoots most notably tighter groups. That's all I know.

I glass bedded the tang,rear and under the bbl for and inch or so on a TOW Issac Hains build and it helped make it stronger. Got the idea from Birddog 6. Glad I did it. Dan.

Yup, bed the tang and the first few inches (up to 4-5) of the barrel.

It is a very good idea especially around the tang and lock mortice,butt and toe plates. If done correctly you will never see it unless you take the gun apart. MD

I built a CVA hawken, and I bedded the entire barrel length and tang with marine tex. That stuff is made for boat hull repair, but it's super tough, and I was planning on using it in all kinds of hunting weather. I have a New Englander that the barrel moved sided to side, so I used Acraglass to bed it, but I couldn't tell it made a difference as far as the accuracy goes, but it made me happy the barrel didn't move.

Glass bedding of modern rifles included "free floating" of the barrels for accuracy for as the barrels heated and the steel expanded the stocks would then add uneven pressure to the action and the barrel. When you are shooting long range, this does make a big difference.

For a black powder target rifle, especially something that is full stocked with the stock attached to the barrel with pins or keys, I was taught that changes in humidity with the wood, plus temperature, then the added heat from the barrel, will cause the wood to metal contact and pressure to change, and thus, for target shooting this can make a difference. So glass bedding of a stock can reduce or eliminate this.

I have had to glass bed the tang and where the butt of a barrel rests against a stock in some commerically made muskets, as well as some rifles built from kits. This was because too much wood had been removed, and stress from recoil was causing problems. I have also used it several times to make repairs of stock at the lock mortise as well as the wrist areas.

IF these are not your concerns, optimal accuracy espcially at long range, or strength at quesionable stock locations or outright repairs, you probably don't need to do it.

If you decide to do it, be sure you do it right, otherwise you may end up gluing the barrel into the stock. :shocked2: I've seen a few DIY glass bedding projects end up that way.

LD

+1 ... what the Loyalist fellow said ...

be sure to use a good release agent, and don't be timid about applying plenty!

also, get some plasticine modeling clay to dam up any little holes or gaps in the little spaces where the underlugs and such hang out.

good luck with your project!

Rat Trapper said:

What can you all tell me about glass bedding a ML? I have heard the competitve shooters do it. I've done it on modern rifles, but never thought of doing it to a ML before. Good idea or not??

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Hmm...I only shoot percussion long-arms from the era of your recent civil war, but if you can show me where there are details of how the armourers of that time used glass bedding to improve the accuracy of THEIR rifles, I'll be more than happy to embrace your recommendations. :thumbsup:

tac

Is the tang the area that provides the most help with accuracy?

tac said:

Rat Trapper said:

What can you all tell me about glass bedding a ML? I have heard the competitve shooters do it. I've done it on modern rifles, but never thought of doing it to a ML before. Good idea or not??

Click to expand...

Hmm...I only shoot percussion long-arms from the era of your recent civil war, but if you can show me where there are details of how the armourers of that time used glass bedding to improve the accuracy of THEIR rifles, I'll be more than happy to embrace your recommendations. :thumbsup:

tac

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I don't think Rat Trapper is talking about re-enacting.
Bedding original arms is not proper unless its needed for a restoration where the wood needs to be stabilized.
Also modern reproductions of the Civil War arms may not be assembled with the same knowledge and care of an original. This is chronic in all factory mades.
Bedding makes the wood stronger and the rifle will maintain its accuracy longer. It also protects the wood's end grain from cleaning solvents and oil.
Also if one is shooting for MONEY the need for accuracy increases unless the entry is considered a donation.

Still my match ML rifle is not bedded. Nor will I normally bed MLs I make.

Rifles with accuracy issues may find this cured by careful bedding the breech especially on hooked breech rifles which are often too loose for best accuracy at least the modern made ones.
Bedding the standing breech and the breech of the barrel will stabilize the barrel and should increase accuracy.

Dan

My Selb .58 Hawken full stock is bedded exactly as M.D. describes.
It is undetectable without disassembly.
In a nine pound hunting gun I like the added strength.

Irish

Old time gunsmiths did not use glass bedding. But some did use beeswax to fill gaps! :grin: :idunno: :grin:

Dan Phariss said:

Also if one is shooting for MONEY the need for accuracy increases unless the entry is considered a donation. Dan

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Dan, we really DO live on different planets, don't we? :shocked2: :wink:

tac

Loyalist Dave said:

If you decide to do it, be sure you do it right, otherwise you may end up gluing the barrel into the stock. :shocked2: I've seen a few DIY glass bedding projects end up that way.

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I just did my first bedding project and the above thought was scaring the heck out of me! I used Brownell's Accraglas Gel and followed the instructions to the letter. Made sure I had plenty of release agent on. Taped the edges of the barrel where it meets the stock. Used modeling clay to fill any tiny crevices, like the back of the breach plug, pin holes in the lugs, etc. Worked perfectly. Barrel...much to my relief...came out "easily." Barrel channel and tang area look great.

Because I'm a wimp for a true Minnesotan, I haven't braved 30 below windchills over the last few weeks to go shoot it yet though! :shocked2:

I had my PH 1858 Navy Rifle bedded, the breach end, and under each barrel band. this was done in the early 80's. There was typically too much wood removed from the breach end. Accuracy has been amazingly consistent ever since. None of my long rifles are bedded and all shoot really well.

Cheers

Heelerau

I don't bed for accuracy, but every rifle I build gets a good dose of marine epoxy (essentially the same concoction as barrel bedding products, but since I build/repair wooden boats have gallons on hand) in the barrel channel, tang area, lock and trigger mortise and patch box (if present) - all that it will soak up.

The web on a full stock is maybe 1/8" thick - that makes it the weak link in my view - the epoxy significantly strengthens it and makes it virtually water proof and mold proof.

Historically correct - absolutely not, but I don't worry about the barrel channel or lock mortise rotting due to condensation or rain/snow water or the stock splitting at the web.

Given the choice between a 100% HC stock and one that will outlive me, I choose the latter.

MSW said:

+1 ... what the Loyalist fellow said ...

be sure to use a good release agent, and don't be timid about applying plenty!

also, get some plasticine modeling clay to dam up any little holes or gaps in the little spaces where the underlugs and such hang out.

good luck with your project!

Click to expand...

What he said. Use plenty.

Rat Trapper said:

Is the tang the area that provides the most help with accuracy?

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The tang and breech area take the brunt of the recoil, if there's a poor fit there or any slop it's the most likely place for minor movement to happen.
Most factory guns are run on mills and the bit's wear out as they're used, there's usually plenty of extra space so all the parts from various vendors drop right in for speedy production.
When it's loose in the tang/breech area the barrel can shift and bounce around with each shot.
Really bad fit's can actually increase felt recoil.

Not only increased feel of the recoil but also broken/cracked stocks. This is especially true for light rifles like the T.C. Cherokee when used with heavier loads. Bedding prevents the movement as well as reinforcing the weak area of the stock. :idunno: