Cracked stock Renegade

Went deer hunting today and noticed the stock on the Renegade had cracked by the lock screw in 2 places. When I got home I removed the lock and it was cracked behind the lock also. Is there any fix for this?

You can repair and strengthen it with some epoxy. I wouldn't go with the thick stuff that you get in the syringe from the hardware store, there is some thin epoxy such as used for boat repairs (ie. West System epoxy) that is just a bit above the consistency of water.

I would remove the lock, bolt and sideplate (if equipped) and put a piece of tape over the lockbolt hole and the crack on the (non-lock side) of the stock.

Then lay the rifle with the lock side up and literally pour some epoxy right into the cracks and bolt hole until it's "full".

I would also (paint) the inside of the lock mortise with as much epoxy as it will absorb (that will strengthen everything in there, and then let it set up (about 24 hours).

Then you can remove the tape, scrape any residue and re-drill the lock bolt hole - alternately you could stick a small drinking straw in the bolt hole before you epoxy(epoxy will not stick to plastic and once cured is stronger than the surrounding wood).

That is how I would deal with it.

Thanks I will see if I can find the epoxy tomorrow

From my boat building days, West System is the strongest you find. That is from 10+ years ago so may have changed. Look on line for Jamestown Distributors. They have near anything but Accurglas.


:thumbsup:
sweed

Jess said:

Is there any fix for this?

Click to expand...

Common problem on T/C stocks”¦one Hawken I had that was above average beautiful couldn’t be replaced by T/C under warranty as they no longer had any as pretty, and the Service Manager convinced me I could repair it myself and sent it back to me.
I took a 1/8" drill bit...drilled straight down on the left side of the tang wood through the crack. Then marked the bit flush, removed it, cut off the shank end just shorter than the mark, dipped it in epoxy and tapped it back down in. Then I installed the “wrist strengthening parts” to prevent future stress”¦used that T/C Hawken for several more years without a problem.
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Also my previous posting from years ago:

There was/is a common problem of TC ML stocks developing a hairline crack that runs with the grain on the left side opposite the lock, running back to front usually through or just above the hole for the lock mounting bolt. So much internal wood gets removed for the lock mortise and the trigger assembly that the region becomes very weak allowing this hairline crack to develop.

To try and prevent it TC redesigned a few things...they changed from a front tang wood screw to a full length 1/4" front tang bolt that runs down through the stock wood, through a redesigned trigger plate, and screws into a threaded seat that's been drilled and tapped on top of the trigger guard. This also required that they redesign their trigger plate to allow for a pass-through hole, and redesign a front trigger spring because the pass-through hole goes right where the old style spring (piece of paper clip!) was crimp-anchored in place.

Now on the one hand, since TC will replace a complete stock assembly at no charge if one splits it may not be of interest to. On the other hand, if you have a particularly attractive stock, or one of the early designs with a longer LOP, that can't be replaced you might want to be proactive and install the strengthening parts to 'prevent' a favorite stock from cracking...I've converted a few of mine...have a few to do.

If you're handy with these things you can do it yourself with hand tools, drill, taps, etc, for about $20 or for about $80-$100 with shipping to buy all the completed new assemblies from TC.

1) Buy the new tang bolt, new trigger plate, new front trigger spring, total of about $20 with shipping.

2) Enlarge the front tang hole in the tang with a 1/4" bit;

3) Completely disassemble the old style trigger assembly and transfer all the parts to the new style trigger plate, and install the new trigger spring as part of that activity;

4) With the newly assembled trigger assembly in place, mark the wood through the pass-through hole on the new style plate;

5) Arrange yourself some sort of guide to drill a 1/4" hole completely down through the stock from the front tang hole position to the position you just marked for the pass-through hole.
(Note: this drilled hole is not a simple straight hole...it has to angle slightly forward at the bottom).
I use a strip of masking tape to create a straight edge between the two hole locations and use that as a visual guide for the drill bit;

6) Then mount the trigger guard, slide the new tang bolt down through the hole until it rests on top of the trigger guard, and gently tap it / turn it to make a mark on the trigger guard as the exact location you need to drill & tap the threaded seat for the tang bolt to screw into.

7) Remove the trigger guard, drill and tap the hole...NOTE: also at that same slight angle...and put everything back together.

Note: A new style trigger guard (with hole drilled & tapped) costs $48 + shipping...AND...because different vintage rifles had variations in the size of the mounting pads/feet, even if you spent the money and bought a new trigger guard, the mounting pads/feet might be a different size from the relieved areas on your stock that they set into and look goofy...best (and cheapest) way is to just D&T your existing guard.

I'm agreeing, for the most part, with what these fellows have to say. Now, at one point I did buy a T\C stock from a guy on a forum and he told me the stock was great. Well, I got it, gave it a quick look...and about a year later began to assemble parts to put a rifle together.

So, long story short, the stock had several long hairline cracks that went thru the stock around the lock area and the wrist area. Not noticeable until I grabbed the stock and put a good twist on it.

My fix method was a syringe filled with a 50\50 mix of Elmer's wood glue. I just kept pumping the glue in until it came out of the other side of everything. I would pump it in the big part of the crack and let it find it's way to the small part and keep "pushing" on the syringe until the glue was coming out of small cracks I had not really noticed.

Then I wrapped it tightly with rubber and let it sit for about 5 days. I shot the gun about 100 rounds or so with heavy loads and it was fine. I put it on a local forum, and with full disclosure about the stock, sold it and never heard about it again.

FWIW

Dave

Mine has been cracked for about 20 years now and still works fine without repairing it.

This gun has had a hairline crack for at least 15 years. It did not crack in that spot but about a half inch forward of the old crack. It cracked through the lock screw hole and beyond it about an inch and a half. I used the gun two weeks ago and did not see a crack but was not looking for one either. I shot the gun and cleaned it and never noticed a crack. Went hunting a few days ago and noticed the barrel felt loose looked at the stock and it had a large crack. It must have cracked the last time I fired it and I did not see it.

Well, I suppose for the minimal effort it takes to repair it, you could fix it and shoot it another 20 years with no crack.

Dave

Yeah I will get around to it eventually. It's just not a top priority right now. Now restocking my Pedersoli frontier into a great peice of stripped up maple now thats priority as well as finish the boys new gun, fishing season, spring turkeys, spring rondys, and etc.