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Mink Oil for Shoes?

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mike3132

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Can someone tell me why you are not suppose to use mink oil for shoes as patch lube? I used it and recovered the best looking patches ever out of my .54. The patches look like they hadnt been shoot except for a very light brown ring. Is this just a period thing for not using the shoe lube?
 
Mike,

I used the same thing for years (over 35 years) with no problem.

They will probably tell you it's a petroleum product so it can't be used. Of course, according to some people on the forum, about 3 quarters of what I use or do is wrong. When I started out, the guy who built my first gun showed me what to do, and he's pretty well known and respected), it's kind of amazing how wrong he was too.

Anyway, it's worked for me.

Chris
 
not suppose to

??? :youcrazy: ???
Where did that bit of nonsense come from?
The mink oil will work. Might work fine for you and might not. That is why you don't get your experienced ml'er badge until you have tried at least 30 different patch lubes. :wink:
The petroleum thing is another myth. Uh-Oh! Have I :stir:
 
now, wait a bit ... I have some mink oil from track ... does this mean I gotta smear it all over my new sneakers?

:haha: :stir:
 
MSW said:
now, wait a bit ... I have some mink oil from track ... does this mean I gotta smear it all over my new sneakers?

As I think you're humorously pointing out, the stuff from Track is different from the shoe product he's talking about. No petroleum and pure mink. It's dandy stuff, and yeah, I use it all the time on leather as well as patches.

As for the stuff from the shoe polish section of the grocery store, yup. The petroleum purists are standing in line to rain on that parade. But I sure know a lot of old timers that have been using it for decades. Scary to think how much better they would be shooting today, if they hadn't "ruined" their rifles by such heresy. :rotf:
 
I was curious as to exactly what the stuff sold in the store for shoes and labeled as mink oil really is. A bit of reading the MSDS about Kiwi Mink Oil says that it is a mixture of real mink oil and bees wax but it also contains 20 to 24% Stoddard solvent and an unspecified amount of Naphtha. So, for purists like myself who do not use petroleum products as bullet or patch lube, Kiwi Mink Oil would not be acceptable. If you read this post before I corrected it, please disregard what I said. Later reading turned up better information than my first quick bit reading.
 
Mink oil is like Neatsfoot oil. Some is petroleum based and some is pure animal based.

I shot with a Vet. in line matches and he only used pure Neatsfoot oil, from horses hooves, as a patch lube.

You can get it from your local feed store.
 
Richard Eames said:
Mink oil is like Neatsfoot oil. Some is petroleum based and some is pure animal based.

I shot with a Vet. in line matches and he only used pure Neatsfoot oil, from horses hooves, as a patch lube.

You can get it from your local feed store.

The label will tell you if it is pure or has silicone added. For use on leathers I have never been able to tell a difference in performance.
 
If you use petroleum based Neatsfoot oil, leather will crack and if you use horse hooves based it will not crack, that has been my experience.

I poured out all my petroleum based after ruining several pair of boots.

On my rifles scabbards and saddle bags, I only use the pure stuff, not the fake.

My scabbards date back to the 50s.

We all get to chose how we spend out money.
 
Know when I first heard about not using petroleum on patches???

Ads for that product, what was it back then?? Wonder Lube I believe...

Before then, nobody cared...I know a fellow (John Braxton) that has made flintlocks for decades...He used axle grease on his patches and several of his guns have won matches at Friendship...

Never underestimate the power of advertising...If what you do works, stick with it... :thumbsup:
 
Richard Eames said:
If you use petroleum based Neatsfoot oil, leather will crack and if you use horse hooves based it will not crack, that has been my experience.

I poured out all my petroleum based after ruining several pair of boots.

On my rifles scabbards and saddle bags, I only use the pure stuff, not the fake.

My scabbards date back to the 50s.

We all get to chose how we spend out money.

I do believe the topic was using it on your patch for your RB. And into that context, I don't understand how a petrolum product is going to hurt a steel barrel or a lead ball. It all goes back to there are many things you can use or do to achieve the results you want. They are not all wrong and they are not all right, just do what works for you.
 
"And into that context, I don't understand how a petrolum product is going to hurt a steel barrel or a lead ball"

Not all here will agree with using petroleum products for patch lubes, really do not care what you use, try coal tar.
 
Use coal tar???

I'm very happy with mink oil, thanks just the same.

The point is,,,you don't have to agree, you can use what ever you want.
 
Richard Eames said:
If you use petroleum based Neatsfoot oil, leather will crack and if you use horse hooves based it will not crack, that has been my experience.

I poured out all my petroleum based after ruining several pair of boots.

On my rifles scabbards and saddle bags, I only use the pure stuff, not the fake.

My scabbards date back to the 50s.

We all get to chose how we spend out money.

Richard, I don't know what you mean by "petroleum based" and "fake". The Fiebings I have used since leaving the cave has been a good product for me. I have leather stuff more than 60 years old treated with both pure neatsfoot oil and silicone added Fiebings and they are still in excellent condition.
 
nchawkeye said:
Know when I first heard about not using petroleum on patches???

Ads for that product, what was it back then?? Wonder Lube I believe...

Before then, nobody cared...I know a fellow (John Braxton) that has made flintlocks for decades...He used axle grease on his patches and several of his guns have won matches at Friendship...

Never underestimate the power of advertising...If what you do works, stick with it... :thumbsup:


We used to camp next to John Braxton at Friendship. There are few masters who can compare to him when it comes to gun building. His stuff is what ml dreams are made of. And his knowledge base is extensive.
I recall, that for many years, white water pump grease was a crowd favorite for patch and over ball lube on the C&B revolvers. IMHO, the 'no petroleum products' thing is a myth. It was invented by Sasquatch.
 
Myths come and go, petroleum based, animal based, lead wrapped and leather wrapped, the arguments continue to go on and on, weighed balls versus not weighed, swaged versus cast balls, shot in a rifled barrel, patches cut at the muzzle against pre-cut, it will never end, oh how about cleaning solutions and patch lubes, square patches versus round patches.
 
I understand but dont understand........and lets just leave it at that. Thanks for the replies.
 
For years I have used Sno-Seal (Bees wax & Mineral Spirits) for my hunting boots and way back when patch lube in an old 45. Kentucky percussion rifle. Think I'll try it again because I really don't remember how good it worked as a lube. If it's as good as a patch lube as it is for waterproofing, I may stay with it.
 
Avoiding using petroleum-based lubes originated with cap and ball revolver shooters. Petroleum based grease and lubes (except for paraffin) tend to produce more crud that will goo up a revolver much quicker than will sparing amounts of animal/vegetable-based lubes.

I doubt it has much impact on shooting a muzzleloading rifle.
 
Same here...I used SnoSeal from 1975-2010 or so, because I had it on hand for my LL Bean boots...Switched to Moose Snot just to try something different...
 
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