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40 cal fff load

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D Sanders

40 Cal.
Joined
Jan 26, 2008
Messages
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I have a 40 cal green mountain barrel, 42" length, 48" twist and I shoot an .018 patch, .390 ball and 50 grains of fff bp. I am shredding patches right and left, and accuracy isn't worth a hoot. It has maybe 100 rounds run through it. I guess my question is, what is your favorite 40 cal load? What kind of groups are you getting at say 40 yards?

HH 60
 
I run around 35 grains in my two andthey both shoot really well


Fleener
 
Check the muzzle crown closely. Look for any burrs or any anomaly that makes the crown not perfectly round. All the 40s I have had have been tack drivers right out of the box. My latest one shoots the same little cluster of holes in the target with any charge between 30 and 60 grains of KIK 3Fg powder, using a .395 ball and a .015 patch. Last week I shot a 2 ½ group at 100 yards. There is a picture of the rifle and group in the Photos forum.
 
Mine is a 38" GM barrel...I use a tighter PRB combo with a .395" + .018" precut / prelubed pillow ticking patches. Experimented with 40/50/60/70grns Goex 3F and haven't had any patch issues.

If you're lubing your own patches you may need more lube;
And / or, if you just have the .390" balls on hand maybe try a thicker .020"-.022" patch material.
 
I get good tight groups with 30 grs of fffg out of my rice swamped 38 inch barrel :thumbsup:
 
my nephew shoots 35 grain fff and is deadly accurate..390 ball .015 oxyoke lubed patches. :hmm:
 
I agree that your crown or the lands are sharp. That is a pretty stout target and small game load but I shot 90 or 95 with .395 balls when I hunted deer. I did not have torn patches. Geo. T.
 
Got two GM's with .403 bores. Been shooting .397 ball (the Lee mold says .395). At 40 yards (inch or better) the holes are real close but not as close as they oughta be. But I haven't shot them since getting my new glasses. Maybe I can play hookie in a few days and catch on important stuff like noise and smoke. Something I want to do just to satisfy my own curiosity is double ball load with a stout charge and see how they fall.
 
one of my not very hard not very fast rules is about 1/3-1/4 ball wt,a 90 grain ball might need about a 30 grain load,my old .36 could head shot tree rats out to 50 yds with a 25 grain charge
 
Gm barrels have sharp lands, run 0000 steel wool on your jag up & down 100 times, or a dish washing scrubbie. More shots will also do it. I'm assuming you are lubing your patches.

I second the motion that you may have sharp edges on your lands. I'd do exactly as above, though with a .40 if you are using scrubbies you may want to use them with a .36 caliber jag when polishing a .40 bore.

IF you can get hold of a CO2 discharger, then load a patched ball on an empty barrel as close to the touch hole as you can, then with the discharger launch the ball and patch into a plastic bucket and look at the patch. It will probably be less shredded and perhaps still be circular but may show cutting.

LD
 
I'm with the other responses. Your charge may not (probably is not) be the cause of patches tearing up. Do follow up on suggestions given so far.
My wife's .40 with a Douglas barrel likes 25 gr. of Swiss 3Fg.
 
It sure sounds like a problem with sharp rifling. My 38" swamped .40 likes 30 to 40 grains 3F on the low side and 60grns on the high. Well lubed patches are a must and op wads sometimes help.
 
Well, to each his own. Just about every offhand record at the NMLRA is held by people who shoot GM .40 caliber barrels. Most of the record holders shoot a .400 ball with Teflon coated pillow ticking that is .018 thick. This is propelled by 55-65 grains fffg powder. I used a GM .40 for years and the load I used was as above except I used .017 ticking w/o the Teflon. Your .390 ball is too small and is allowing blowby to destroy your patching.
Bill
 
GoodCheer said:
Something I want to do just to satisfy my own curiosity is double ball load with a stout charge and see how they fall.
Back in 2011 I took my new .40cal to the range for another practice session and while I was there decided to experiment with a few double ball loads.
The Lancaster is zeroed at 25yds with 40grns Goex 3F...so I poured in two 40grn charges, then short started one .395” x .018” PRB, then a second PRB, then seated them both down together.
I set the target out at 35yds, then out at 50 yards and shot double ball loads...prominent figure 8’s showing two distinct horizontal ball holes with the common edges of each slightly touching into each other. POI was basically about the same. The shots at 35yds actually showed single oval shaped holes.
Excellent accuracy in this .40cal.

072511A1RightSideFullButtAngle.jpg
 
I agree with everything Pawbill said. Seen it myself. But you should get very good accuracy with your GM .40 barrel with a .395 and a .020 patch. My shooting partner shoots a 13/16ths GM barrel in .40 with that combination using moose milk for lube. He regularly shoots the eye out of a bird flying so to speak with his slim longrifle. He use 35 grains of powder.

Almost every Green Mountain barrel I have seen will cut patches when new. Use the steel wool or a piece of scotchbrite pad on a jag or some "JB" paste and you'll cure your problem.

If I can see a lot of daylight through my patch weave it is not good enough. We use JoAnns canvas patching that is a little above .020 inch. in our GM barrels. We could keep using the same patch over again if we were inclined to.

Keep at it you'll do fine

Bob
 
Master Blaster is right, you need to lap your bore to remove the sharp edges and any rough machine marks. Like he said, steel wool wrapped on an old slightly undersized bore brush will do the job. So will one of the 3M green scrubbing pads. They can remove any sharp edges. You can also go to an auto parts store and get some fine valve lapping compound. Put it on a tight fitting patch and run it up and down your bore. You will need to add lapping compound after about every 20 strokes. Whatever you do, you must use a muzzle protector when using any abrasive material in your bore. The muzzle protector will prevent your rod from rubbing on the muzzle and changing its profile. Changing the profile will ruin the accuracy of the barrel and will require that you take it to a properly trained gunsmith to have the barrel re-crowned.

When polishing out a barrel, you will need a bit of lubricant. You can use something like a 50/50 mixture of Murphy's Oil Soap and water. Keep your patch, steel wool or whatever wet with the soap mixture to keep it working. Change your steel wool every 20 or so strokes so you will keep good sharp steel wool working for you. Do the same with the 3M pads. change them about every 20 strokes because they wear out and you will be working and not getting much done if you don't make these changes. It takes about 100 strokes to get your barrel lapped. Sometimes it takes a few more strokes. You may have to go to 200 strokes if you don't change your polishing material after every 20 strokes so you keep a good sharp material working for you. When you are doing this polishing, be absolutely sure that you are making full strokes so that your bore is getting evenly polished through its full length. When you are through polishing your bore, you must wash and flush it thoroughly to remove any abrasive material. This treatment should have your patch shredding problem solved if it is due to any sharp edges in the bore. If polishing the bore does not solve the patch shredding problem, you will need to consider changing patch material to a tighter weave or using a different lube. You can also try using felt OP wads to see if that helps.

As for the best load for your rifle, this is something that no one can tell you. Every rifle is different, just like children. However, unlike children, you cannot teach them to appreciate or like different things, you have to find out what they like. That rifle just isn't going to change for you. The absolutely best advice I can give you is to goggle "Dutch Schultz Muzzleloading Accuracy System". Send him the $20 and get his system. Then read it. Read it again, and again until you fully understand what he is telling you. Then go out to the range and do exactly what he tells you to do and in exactly the order and way he tells you to do it. Change nothing from what he tells you. If you will do this, you will end up with the absolutely most accurate load your rifle wants and with that GM barrel, his method will have you shooting more accurately than you would ever believe any muzzleloading rifle could shoot. You will then know that the few dollars that you spent on his system will be the best spent money you will ever spend on muzzleloading.
 
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