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Non traditional ramrod

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I made this bullet starter in my wood shop. I used .40 brass that I dished with a bullnose router bit in my drill press.

Now for my question. I finally fired the flintlock Hawken I built. I actually hit the target with the first shot at 50 yards. When I rammed the first ball home the barrel shaved wood off the ramrod. As it did with all the next shots. I really like the way it looks so I don't want to dick it up.

I took an old 12 gauge bore brush and cut off the bristles. I epoxied a .40 cal case onto it. Once the epoxy sets I'll dish the end tomorrow. So I'll have an aluminum ramrod. Anyone know if this is a bad idea?
 
I do not use metal rods of any kind without a muzzle guard. I use Hickory or delron 99% of the time. I sounds as though your muzzle is pretty sharp. It will smooth out pretty quick but you could speed it up with a smooth hone. Looks goob by the way! Geo. T.
 
Geo T said:
I do not use metal rods of any kind without a muzzle guard. I use Hickory or delron 99% of the time. I sounds as though your muzzle is pretty sharp. It will smooth out pretty quick but you could speed it up with a smooth hone. Looks goob by the way! Geo. T.

I really don't want to run any kind of abrasive to smooth out muzzle. I very much doubt I could re-do the browning to fix an error. Aluminum is much softer than the brown oxide.

Do you really think this is a bad idea?
 
Aluminum is a bad idea because it picks up grit over time and will saw out your muzzle acting just like a lap slug if it is not centered with a muzzle guard.
Any loading rod , even wood should have a muzzle guard to center it and keep it off the bore wall.
Wood will also pick up grit.
This was one of the primary reasons that muzzle loaders needed freshing out , in the old days, in my opinion. MD
 
So I'll have an aluminum ramrod. Anyone know if this is a bad idea?

Modern grinding wheels and stones are made of aluminum oxide. Your aluminum rod will oxidize. Yes, bad-bad idea.
For a range rod you should use stainless steel, brass, Delrin or another stout material. Plus a muzzle protector is important. Lots of threads on this issue from the past.
BTW, I'm a kinda ml snob, no offense, but personally I dislike ml accessories made out of modern gun stuff. :barf: Just not in the spirit of old timey ways. I have made many short starters using plain hickory for the rods. I cup the ends and fire harden in a candle flame. Might not last as long as brass but one is over 30 years old and going strong. :grin: Long enough for me.
 
I have used an anodized aircraft grade aluminom ramrod for over 30 yrs.no problem.It can't oxydize unless the anodizing wears off and that would be very visible.The bore guides are a good idea.As to a ramrod picking up grit,wiping them off regularily with a clean rag is a good idea no matter what.The only problem I have ever had with the aluminum rod is that the threads got sloppy and I replaced it with a steel rod.But after that long I needed a new range rod anyway.
 
When I was just starting out with muzzleloaders the same thing happen to me, I would shave off bits of my ramrod, and it was because I was trying to ram the ball down the barrel in one long stroke. Are you trying to do that?
 
Flash Pan Dan said:
When I was just starting out with muzzleloaders the same thing happen to me, I would shave off bits of my ramrod, and it was because I was trying to ram the ball down the barrel in one long stroke. Are you trying to do that?
Nope, I grab the rod about halfway and drive to there then I put the hand saver on and drive it the rest of the way.
 
Try seating prb 6" at a time. That way seats very well with no danger of a wood rod breaking and skewering your palm. You'll also find less scraping of the rod.
 
I agree with Hanshi, except that I would only grab it 4 inches above the muzzle before ramming the ball down, 4 inches at a time.
 
Made mine out of brass and in foot long sections that screw together that way i can carry itt in my shooters box and add the sections as needed for barrel length
 
I use a stainless jointed rod for my hunting pack for emergency use but don't care for joints in any of my range rods. Seen to many peened muzzles from cleaning rods used without muzzle guides and joints only add to the problem.
Peening doesn't show up from the end but sure does from the underside at the muzzle when viewed through a Hawkeye bore scope. MD
 
M.D. said:
I use a stainless jointed rod for my hunting pack for emergency use but don't care for joints in any of my range rods. Seen to many peened muzzles from cleaning rods used without muzzle guides and joints only add to the problem.
Peening doesn't show up from the end but sure does from the underside at the muzzle when viewed through a Hawkeye bore scope. MD

I don't use a jointed steel rod, mines one piece with a bore guide that I ordered from Knight's Armament. It's very stiff so seating a tight ball is easy w/o the rod bending.

I can get away with a one piece rod as I only target shoot now.

Tom
:grin:
 

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