Flint installation

I have a real simple request - I need a screwdriver to properly tightened the lock jaws around the flint. I have a large Siler and it takes a real thin blade. I have a screw driver that is hollow ground and will fit, but the blade width is only about 1/4". I'd like a wide blade designed for this purpose. Can anyone give me a link to a commercial source. Failing this, I'll have to get out my Dremmel and grind on a blade I have until it fits, but it will still be slightly more narrow than I want. I sure would like a proper tool for this this common task.

I have seen gunsmithing screwdrivers on R. E. Davis website and Track of the Wolfs' as well.

I just drilled a hole into the top jaw screw and use a piece of music wire, no need for a screwdriver that you run the risk of slipping from the slot.

Use a flat needle file to open the slot. I agree this is a frustrating problem. Then make a screwdriver to fit and/or when you are at an event buy one from a vendor, or check the on-line dealers for a screwdriver. Drilling the hole is also a solution but I would round the top for appearance sake. Then you have to have a round rod to use for that. And, they are easily misplaced. DAMHIK :redface:

To widen the screw slot it is usually done with a knife styled needle file, screw slots were tapered not square, this does limit the amount of torque that can be applied to said screw.

As far as drilling the top jaw screw is concerned, a rod to tighten the screw is as far away as a vent pick which most every flint shooter carries, problem solved.

Oh, and there is alot more torque that can be applied with this method as well without the issues of marring any surfaces because of a slipped screwdriver bit.

ApprenticeBuilder said:

I just drilled a hole into the top jaw screw and use a piece of music wire, no need for a screwdriver that you run the risk of slipping from the slot.

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Excellent. And the rifle's lock is even on the proper side! Although my vent pick is too thin to be strong enough to torque down a jaw on a flint, I just need a thicker piece of steel.

An Allen wrench makes a good tool for using in the hole. If you are clever, heat the short end of the Alen wrench and beat it into a screw driver blade, a versitile tool then. I've made several and carry them in my shooting bag(s).

ApprenticeBuilder said:

To widen the screw slot it is usually done with a knife styled needle file, screw slots were tapered not square, this does limit the amount of torque that can be applied to said screw.

As far as drilling the top jaw screw is concerned, a rod to tighten the screw is as far away as a vent pick which most every flint shooter carries, problem solved.

Oh, and there is alot more torque that can be applied with this method as well without the issues of marring any surfaces because of a slipped screwdriver bit.

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I have both. Prefer the hole but vent picks are not good tools for tightening jaws. Too small, bend and have sharp points. I use a small old screwdriver with handle off.

dogman said:

I have seen gunsmithing screwdrivers on R. E. Davis website and Track of the Wolfs' as well.

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Yea, I spent a good sum buying a nice screwdriver set, hollow ground at that, which had one particular screwdriver which seemed just right. But when I received the set, they were all too thick. I'll get good use from the set, but it's not what I was wanting in regard to the one screwdriver. The hole is a good solution and I hadn't paid any attention up until I needed to make my first flint change. Having not paid attention, I was a bit surprised it didn't already have the hole. Drilling the hole is a bit beyond my capabilities since I don't have a proper shop or work bench for performing such a task. I've already had to grind a specialty screwdriver for one of my bolt actions - it's a bit untidy - but gets the job done. I'll probably have to end up doing the same in this situation.

I have used a short section of old hacksaw blade, using it much like a key in the slot.

Oldnamvet said:

I have used a short section of old hacksaw blade, using it much like a key in the slot.

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This is a good idea. If you wanted to get fancy, you could carve a handle to set it into.

Glad it peaked your interest, it was in use early on. Probably just not wide spread use.

Just wanna watch out for over torque as I have read of the top jaw screw being broken by over-tightning.

There are three easy solutions to the screwdriver issue:

1 - get a decent set of gunsmith screwdrivers (the type with interchangeable tips are fine). IMHO, every gun owner should have proper screwdrivers - but then I cannot stand a gun with buggered up screws.

2 - carefully file your screw slots to accept a standard #2 ground screwdriver blade. An excellent gunsmith friend does this on the guns he makes because he figures everyone has #2s and many will use them whether they fit or not.

3 - Each of my guns has a shooting bag and each bag has a little leather wrap with two spare flints and a PC forged turnscrew in it. I simply buy an attractive looking turnscrew and use a bench grinder to shape it to be a nice fit for the screw holding the flint. East to get parallel sides of any thickness with the grinder after a bit of practice & you have much better control holding the blade against the big wheel than with the tiny wheel of a dremel.

My solution was to cut off the end of an old screw driver and carefully use a bench grinder to fashion a good, thin but strong driver tip to exactly fit that narrow slot. The other end was pinned into a piece of copper for a knapping hammer. The resulting tool fits my needs perfectly. Easy to make, too.

Having the jaw screw run into the S bend under the lower jaw is another thing that can break the cock or screw.

If the flint is very thin or the padding is too thin, the cock screw can bottom out without the shooter noticing it.
Further tightening won't tighten the top jaws hold on the flints padding but it sure can twist off the screw.